Caution: Do Not Run Full Battery Voltage to the Voltage Regulator Without A Current Limiting Device!!!!
My GM electronic service information only goes back to 1997 with full schematics. If you have confirmed the CS130 as the alternator, the brown wire is F or "Field" and while it has voltage from the key switch, it's current must be limited.
The dash will have a peanut bulb (194) which when lit limits current to 0.25 amps. Depending on how they wired it. Many times a 470 ohms resistor is wired in parallel with the bulb. In this configuration, if the bulb fails and goes out, voltage can still flow through the resistor to supply the field terminal with B+, but at 0.25 amps. This keeps the alternator working, but the dash light won't come on.
On newer vehicles, the resistor has been eliminated and use the build only. Either way, with a bulb or resistor only, you will damage the voltage regulator permanently due to high amperage. So use a 470 ohm resistor of 1/4 amp capacity in line between the ignition's brown wire that goes to the alternator.
In 2004, GM had a total of 26 different voltage regulators, so that was their reason for not selling them. It's too easy to install the wrong one.
A 2 wire alternator connector was used into the mid 90's, but know have 4 terminals; P, S,F,L. Different functions depending on the application. Now they are PWM controlled by the PCM in most cases.
As a dealer tech, I still own a small "CS" alternator tester with LED's and connectors. It has an internal resistor that allows the alternator to "Full Field" for testing on the vehicle.
This alternator (CS130 / CS144) is popular and used in swaps, but the resistor has to be included. Mine is inline with solder and shrink tubing over it.
For additional information, try Alternatorman.com for parts, wiring, complete alternators and important information.
Hope this helps, depending on what you have already done.
