Bad Oil Leak from pan, won’t go away

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Mech_Lyfe

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@TCBRacer77 as a mechanic, here is what I would do, wash the engine real good, be sure to protect the electrical stuff, bag the alternator, etc. use some formula 88, stuff works great on a warm engine. Get some dye, about 9 bucks at advanced auto, take it for a drive and start checking. Start at the top of engine and work your way down. Front to back.
Replace pcv valve if it has been changed, too much pressure not be relieved causes problems.
If you get back down to the oil pain and that’s where all the dye is, and you never found another spot, and the dye is mostly on the edges, then you have two options. One get some black Rtv and clean every thing real good when you remove the pan. Lay down a nice thick bead say an 1/8 in or so. Reattach the pan, and here is where people mess up, DO NOT TIGHTEN. What you want to do is snug up the bolts evenly all the way around till it just starts to press out at the edge of pan. Then leave it alone for an hr, some say 6+ hrs if you can. After that period, torque the pan.
Other option is to get a new pan and gasket.
 

1998_K1500_Sub

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On my 1995 4.3L VIN W Blazer I've had oil leak around the bolts that hold the timing chain cover (those six or so shoulder bolts, that are supposed to seal against the cover with rubber gaskets of some sort). Oil then dribbled down the front to the oil pan and, once there and below, the "road wind" blew it back along the pan. Resealing the bolts with a bit of RTV around the head appeared to solve the problem.

Oil might also leak around the crank position sensor that bolts into the bottom of the timing chain cover.

As you likely already know, the four (4) bolts on the ends of the 4.3L pan (two in front, two in back) have a notably higher torque spec than the rest of the bolts that lie along the rails.

My $0.02.

Like someone suggested earlier, hose the entire area down, e.g., with Brakleen(TM), and wipe it clean, then monitor it for leakage trails.
 
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