97 Tahoe 2-door: who makes the best quality replacement AC compressor?

[1998_K1500_Sub]

Time to figure out what the root cause is.

While you're at it, make sure the vacuum-operated coolant crossover valve, and its associated solenoid-actuated vacuum valve, are functional. I think they're present on the Tahoe; I know they're on the Suburban.

Their proper operation will aid the AC system's operation.

If you have them...

- you'll find the vacuum valve mounted on the firewall, on the passenger's side (with some vacuum hoses and electrical wiring attached), and

- you'll find the coolant crossover valve mounted in a nest of heater hoses affixed to the passenger's side wheelwell, connected by a vacuum hose to the vacuum valve mentioned above


There was quite a bit of discussion about this coolant crossover valve / vacuum valve pair, and how to test / fix them, in this recent thread starting at this post and thereafter:

Heater issue?

They had different factory temps. I'm just curious what temp your running.

www.gmt400.com

 

[LVJJJ]

Wow! a 2-door Tahoe, always wanted one of those. In a 94 4 door suburban had an intermittent problem with my AC, would quit then start up again. After getting the freon replaced twice discovered a bad electrical connection at the evaporator. Found it when I accidentally bumped the connector while rooting around under the hood looking for the problem.

 

[MekongMan62]

Wow, thanks for all the replies, everyone!

I’m in Mazatlán now. I searched out the highest-rated “aire condicionado” shop in town and paid him a visit today. In my comically awful Spanish I tried to explain the situation to him.

He had me start the Tahoe and then turn on the AC. He listened, looked at various components, inspected with his flashlight, touched various parts to test the temps.

After ten minutes he told me (I think), “very noisy compressor, but it is probably normal.”

Now I feel dumber than a sack of frijoles. I’d been afraid to even turn on the AC for the past three days because with the howling, I expected some bearing to be on the verge of seizing/exploding.

Anyway thanks for all the tips, I will definitely keep them in mind for when the time actually comes to install compressor number 5 in the truck.

 

[MekongMan62]

For my 1998 Suburban I used the Sanden #4261, which is the same as the #4440 except #4261 has a smaller 112mm pulley vs. 132mm on the #4440 (I believe 132mm is the same size as the original HT6's).

I opted for the smaller pulley to provide greater pumping capacity for a given engine RPM. The Sub's a big vehicle with lots of AC plumbing and 4# of refrigerant.

The #4261 SD7 compressor is rated at 6000RPM continuous; the OEM crank pulley is ~8" and the #4261 compressor's pulley is ~4.4", so I "tuned" the ECU to disengage the compressor above 3000RPM to prevent overspeed. Too, my Sub's geared such that I rarely see engine RPM above 3000 on the highway (which equates to ~65MPH in 3rd gear, ~92 4th gear, 4L60E) except during atypically heavy load (passing, accel).

I had wondered if extra drag due to the smaller pulley would impair the ECU's ability to manage engine RPM, e.g., at idle during compressor cycling, but I've noticed no degradation.

You…really seem to know what you’re talking about.

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

You…really seem to know what you’re talking about.

I'm so full of $h!t my eyes are brown