'97 K1500 Suburban stalling after long drive

[denhamt1983]

Thanks a ton, everyone, now I have a lot of stuff to pinpoint in my troubleshooting I'll be sure to update as I go through it, too

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

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I had almost an identical problem. You are on the right track questioning fuel delivery but you need to look under the air intake. I believe your fuel spider has gone bad. The original spider is single port injection. The new replacements are multi port injection. I replaced mine back in 2016. It took a couple hours and was not only a fix but a great upgrade. I have attached a picture of the old busted SPI spider and a couple pics of the new hotness MPI spider installed.

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I know this upgrade is in my truck's future; had to have major fuel injection repair work on my other 99 vortec Burb, around 200,000 IIRC. Was a few years ago so not sure. How much did the new spider assembly cost? Intake manifold gaskets are in the future too cause they are starting to seep, but this repair is beyond what I can do in my shed. I'd rather let a professional mechanic work on my truck to deal with getting the distributor back in correctly the first time. My luck isn't good enough that I want to attempt it and invite all the potential problems a screw up there can bring. Thanks for the help

 

[Erik the Awful]

The AC Delco kit's $268 on RockAuto right now - about $250 if you use the discount code. That's what I put in my Suburban a couple years ago.

I had a guy hit me up on FB marketplace about my Suburban yesterday, so I drove it from the backyard to the front. I'd balanced the rods and pistons when I rebuilt the engine and installed the MPFI. I forgot how smooth that thing runs.

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

Yes when my truck is happy it runs so smooth and quiet you have to look at the tachometer to be sure it is running. I need to do plugs and wires sometime soon, and I'm sure that will help. I put plugs in it when we bought it, but that was in 2013 and it's been driven a lot since then. Thanks all for the help!

 

[Pinger]

Another sensor that can go bad when hot is the crank position one.
Usually they cause the engine to stall when coming to a halt and a re-start is only possible once its cooled for 20-30 mins.

 

[Pinger]

I know this upgrade is in my truck's future; had to have major fuel injection repair work on my other 99 vortec Burb, around 200,000 IIRC. Was a few years ago so not sure. How much did the new spider assembly cost? Intake manifold gaskets are in the future too cause they are starting to seep, but this repair is beyond what I can do in my shed. I'd rather let a professional mechanic work on my truck to deal with getting the distributor back in correctly the first time. My luck isn't good enough that I want to attempt it and invite all the potential problems a screw up there can bring. Thanks for the help

Seeping? To the outside and dribbling down the front of the engine?

By what I've read of your mechanicing efforts HWB, I can't see the manifold gasket defeating you. I think I may be doing mine this summer and the sticky 'how to' on this thread gives the low down on how to. Nothing too scary there - I'l wager you could do it.

 

[200mph]

This may or may not apply... here's what happened to me...

My 454 C3500 ramp truck would run great for an hour or so, then it didn't want to idle... it would stall. After another 15 minutes or so on the highway, it would hardly run at all and wouldn't pull. When I let the truck sit for a day, it ran fine again, until this repeated.

It was explained to me that the fuel pickup has a "sock" over its end so it doesn't pick up dirt and stuff in the tank. As I drove, the sock would get covered in stuff and wouldn't draw much fuel. When I shut it off, the stuff eventually settled back to the bottom.

The local radiator shop dropped the tank and cleaned it all out, problem solved.

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

Another sensor that can go bad when hot is the crank position one.
Usually they cause the engine to stall when coming to a halt and a re-start is only possible once its cooled for 20-30 mins.

Yes I forgot about that one! It will mess you up when it starts to go bad. Fortunately it's not that hard to do on a 5.7. Not sure on a 454, haven't seen one underneath.

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

Seeping? To the outside and dribbling down the front of the engine?

By what I've read of your mechanicing efforts HWB, I can't see the manifold gasket defeating you. I think I may be doing mine this summer and the sticky 'how to' on this thread gives the low down on how to. Nothing too scary there - I'l wager you could do it.

Thanks for the vote of confidence! My skill level, I probably can; the bigger issue is with my work space. Gravel driveway, no electricity so no extra lighting or power tools. When I did all the front end and brake work in 2018, the shop still had power, and I had room to put the truck inside and on stands, and I could lock it up overnight. Now that space is full of household stuff that wouldn't fit in the motel room or the trailer. So many people have had problems with the distributor reinstall that it has me nervous about that part of it.

 

[thegawd]

Just because the fuel pump has been changed doesn't even mean anything. There are brands to avoid like airtex and the recommended brands like ac delco and delphi (which are supposed to be made in the same place I've been told) and then all the others lol.

Well I installed a faulty delphi pump, ran it for 18 months dealing with a hesitation like a misfire but wouldnt set codes so not sure where to turn I assumed the FP was good. Well then it started to chug like **** whenever i stomped on the pedal. I changed the TPS and it didnt change a thing, I dropped the tank 3 times that day troubleshooting and testing believing the pump was good until I pulled it out and put in my original acdelco pump that I removed, see a connector burnt off the fuel sending unit so I changed everything but I never throw out a good part. I put it all back together started the truck up and it purred like a kitten like it was supposed to and rumbled with a tonne of power when I pressed the throttle. I put it in gear and took off down the road and the truck launched like a rocket and it has never ran so well.

So since the tps didnt change anything i put the old one back on. I noticed on my scanner that I can test the tps and see it in graph form. This test can be done by back probing the tps with a multimeter and well i didnt want to do that... see YouTube. I noticed on the graph missing data like the graph dissapeared then cam back. So if theres a break in the information or wrong information the computer adjusts for it based on false data, so no codes are set thinking nothing is wrong. It's a mechanical failure in an electrical circuit with the electrical circuit intact. So I put the new tps back on and then went for a test drive... my goodness I love my truck with it's original 350 untouched engine. it runs like a friggin top. Of course I do have the stage 3 HD tranny and it should help put the power to the ground.

Take care.

Al