96’ K1500 SWB Z71 “Caroline”

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Z71Brother

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Not sure if you are aware, but the 6 lug 14BSF out of a 2500 is about 3" narrower (drum to drum) than the 6 lug 14BSF out of a 1500. I have done two of these swaps (with drums and discs) and I have a third 14BSF which is the narrower version sitting in my shop that I ended up not using. Good looking truck by the way.

So as long as it’s the 14bsf/6 lug from a 1500 pickup I’m good? But the 2500 version is narrower... did not know that!

Far as the swap, how you like it so far? I love the idea of a heavier axle with a rear locker.


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JWOK

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14BSF is a really good axle, I have not had any issues with either of mine and they both had the G80 Gov-Loc. The drum brakes on it are the larger version for the K1500 so that is an upgrade for some trucks, not sure which size your truck has now. The yoke generally requires a different size u-joint, but the conversion joints are easily available at the parts stores. You can also swap the yoke from some 10-bolts to reuse the original u-joint, but I am not sure what all models that would be. I installed the yoke from the 2004 suburban 10-bolt that I swapped rear discs from for my second 14BSF and that fit the original size u-joint in my Yukon. If you get one, be sure to get the u-bolt plates (bigger than the 10-bolt) or a better idea is get the u-bolt reversal kit from Off Road Design and eliminate the plate and associated rust.
 

JWOK

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Well, I left out the part where I intended to say if it's from an OBS K1500 it is a direct bolt in with the exception of the u-joint, u-bolts/plates, and possibly parking brake cables. I think I used the 10-bolt parking brake cables for the first one, but that has been a few years back.
 
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JWOK

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I looked at the craigslist post a little harder and that rear axle looks like the wide one. The VIN number pictured actually shows 1/2 ton and after writing all this I got to thinking that there may have been a difference in width between the 2x4 and 4x4 in the light 2500. It may be worth calling to see if they can give you a measurement from wheel mount to wheel mount and compare it to your truck - the wide one will be very close to yours. Sorry to burst your bubble and then backtrack.
 
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Z71Brother

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No worries JWOK, knowledge is always welcome. Learned a whole lot I didn’t know before! I’ll be sure to ask about the mount spacing.

Seems for the time being I’ll run my current set up and see how it handles the bigger tires, what’s your opinion on getting rid of the gov lock and upgrading to a real locker? Was also thinking going 34s, seems maybe 31/32 will be more reasonable for both money/performance.


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JWOK

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I have seen a couple of the 10 bolt Gov-Loc diffs grenade, but I am pretty sure that was a result of abuse. They really aren't designed for heavy off-road use, burn outs, etc. I have never seen a 14B Gov-Loc destroyed and traction is pretty good, but you can break anything if you try hard enough. I have front and rear lockers (Spartan/Detroit) in my 85 K10 with 1-ton axles and the traction is better, but it really depends on the intended use in my opinion. I would suggest ironing out your plans for tire size, gears, trans, etc. before pulling the trigger on the locker. It is a pretty good chore to install one and all the work would have to be done again if you changed gearing. As far as tire size, I think the originals in most of those trucks were about 30.5" to 31.5" (245/75/16 or 265/75/16) and it isn't that much of a leap to go to 32" or 33". You will notice a drop in mileage/power.
 

noabarron3

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Hey y’all, figured I’d post a thread mostly for input but to have somewhere to keep a documentation of my build. If you go to the introductions I have most details posted up there so I won’t go into detail here.

Quick run-down, as the title states the truck, she’s a 5.7L with a 4L60e (do I swap it or nah? NV..?)

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Not looking for it to be an absolute off-road’r as I have other toys for that (IH8mud member) but I’m going to get it some advantage for when the time comes. I’m currently installing a SkyJacker 2-2.50” lift kit and she’s getting some new 34” Interco TSL SS. I have mostly everything ripped off the front end just waiting on my stuff to get back from powder coating.
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Here’s some of what I have so far done. I pulled basically a whole front end out of a salvage yard truck and now that’s getting the same treatment^.
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(Read my “Introduction” post for more details.)

It seems this lift has never been done from what I can tell scanning the forum and maybe y’all will hate me for doing it! But I’ll most pictures as it goes back together, so far I’m happy with the quality of parts from SkyJacker. I wish I had more photos to post of it to show where I’m at with everything.

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My boys from the north will understand what’s going on here, this truck came from Indiana.

Also the rack you see on the back is something I found at the salvage yard then fab’d it up a little for my usage.
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Hope y’all enjoy the read, I’ll try and keep things updated even if I’m the only one reading, at this point I’m taking any advice I can use. Like I said, this ain’t no bog truck or pebble climber but anything to enhance the performance off-road.

Bryce,


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I’ve got a similar build going on my 94 blazer
4-6 superlift ifs kit and also did a full front end rebuild, instead of junkyard parts I opted for a full eBay kit for 300$
I’ve finished my suspension, fuel tank fuel pump sending unit, tuneup , fluids and all that good stuff...
Next I plan on swapping in an nv4500 so if you’re getting down with that too, keep us updated on the thread. Always good to have a reference for when **** goes wrong. good lookin truck!
 

Z71Brother

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I have seen a couple of the 10 bolt Gov-Loc diffs grenade, but I am pretty sure that was a result of abuse. They really aren't designed for heavy off-road use, burn outs, etc. I have never seen a 14B Gov-Loc destroyed and traction is pretty good, but you can break anything if you try hard enough. I have front and rear lockers (Spartan/Detroit) in my 85 K10 with 1-ton axles and the traction is better, but it really depends on the intended use in my opinion. I would suggest ironing out your plans for tire size, gears, trans, etc. before pulling the trigger on the locker. It is a pretty good chore to install one and all the work would have to be done again if you changed gearing. As far as tire size, I think the originals in most of those trucks were about 30.5" to 31.5" (245/75/16 or 265/75/16) and it isn't that much of a leap to go to 32" or 33". You will notice a drop in mileage/power.

JWOK, you’ve caught me red handed. My 10 bolt has served me well but not sure how many more burnouts she has?! I just know it’s only a matter of time before I frag it and I rather do something about it now before I catch myself on the backside of 1,300 acres trying to haul wood or whatever it may be, I loved my 3/4 ton 89’ with 6.2 Detroit/SM465... she was a treat, never complained about hauling anything, just weighted a bit much for backwoods work! I’m gonna have to make a battle plan to iron out all these options, all the information you’ve provided makes a guy think!


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Z71Brother

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I’ve got a similar build going on my 94 blazer
4-6 superlift ifs kit and also did a full front end rebuild, instead of junkyard parts I opted for a full eBay kit for 300$
I’ve finished my suspension, fuel tank fuel pump sending unit, tuneup , fluids and all that good stuff...
Next I plan on swapping in an nv4500 so if you’re getting down with that too, keep us updated on the thread. Always good to have a reference for when **** goes wrong. good lookin truck!

Sounds like we will learn much from each other with whoever starts the swap first! Also thank you! She ain’t much, but she’s mine... let’s see some pictures of your rig!


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