95 Suburban rear heater hose questions

[1998_K1500_Sub]

That Gates heat-shrink stuff looks like an interesting solution to a problem I don't have. As it's plastic, I wonder about the long-term durability. It looks like it takes longer to install and remove, but if I had a hose that was difficult to seal, it'd definitely be a consideration. Otherwise, why would I bother with it?

Like you, I'm a fan of the OEM spring-style constant tension clamps. I'm not a fan of any clamp that's not constant tension when used on automotive coolant / fuel hoses. The rubber seems to yield over time and leaks appear (most recently, a fuel leak on my '79 Camero where I used a worm clamp on 3/8" fuel line from the pump to the fuel filter). I figure I'll do what the factory does because evidently it works well.

Worm clamps certainly have their place. We use tons of them on the farm, e.g., sprayer hoses, misc clamping chores, etc.

I used the Gates PowerGrip clamps on my Suburban because I like the finished look... and there are no tangs to catch on clothing or skin when I'm working. On the GMT400 5.7L Suburban in particular (such as mine) there are MANY hose clamps, e.g., between the water pump and intermediate pipe (behind the alternator) and from the intermediate pipe to the heater hose; then there's the big friggin' nest of hose connections near the right-side wheelwell where the front, rear, and engine heater hoses converge, as well as the shutoff / bypass valve that resides there too (I believe that valve's specific to the Suburbans and King Cab models). Then there's the nest of connections in the rear (on account of the splices I used to fabricate the replacement hoses, shown earlier in this thread). So I decided to use the Gates PowerGrips just to clean-up those areas. Functionally though, a spring style constant tension clamp would have been just fine IMHO.

Installing / removing the Gates PowerGrips can be tough in difficult-to-reach situations, no doubt.

I guess one other thing: I bought those Gates clamps for only a couple dollars per box (10 clamps per box). I literally bought 500 of them, 100 each of five different sizes. They were being blown out and I just happened to be there to buy them.

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

For those who might be interested...

Gates' patent covering the PowerGrip clamp is found here:

US5340167A - Heat shrinkable polymer hose and tubing clamp - Google Patents

The invention is a device for providing a clamping force about a connection end of elastomeric hose and tubing. The device includes a heat shrinkable polymer, having a diameter reducing release temperature, formed into a band. The band has a first nominal inside diameter defined as the diameter...

patents.google.com

In the section "Description of the Prior Art" they discuss various clamp designs ("adjustable threaded strap clamp" aka worm clamp, "screw clamp", "constant tension spring clamp"); the constant tension spring clamp's advantages over the two other clamp styles are presented (many of which are well known and presented in this thread, prior).

The section "Summary of the Invention" discusses the objectives of the PowerGrip style clamp, e.g,. ref. paragraphs 1 through 7 in that section.

Other sections of the patent are interesting reading as well.

 

[DeanH]

I replaced my rear and front heater "hoses" using Gates molded hoses that I fitted together to replace the OEM pieces while retaining the hard lines, e.g., see images attached in this and my other posts in this thread.

This includes the squirrel's nest of hoses in the engine compartment that interconnect the front, rear, and (in some vehicles) coolant shutoff - bypass valve, as well as those to / from the engine and water pump.

I also used bulk hose where appropriate.

Notably, I kept all the OEM coolant hardlines to the rear but removed the deteriorated rubber hose from their ends (i.e., by using a cutter wheel and slicing through the OEM crimp collar - see my later post - and/or removing all quick-connect fittings). This left the bare hard lines from (a) the engine compartment to mid-frame (under the passenger's door), and (b) from mid-frame to the right rear.

I then added rubber hose to (re) join the various hard lines together, as follows. Note that I did not bead / flare the ends of the metal tubes; while I think it's a good idea, I didn't do it. The clamps I used create a tight "hose to pipe" fit that's been working now for four years. Read on...

In the rear, I used off-the-shelf Gates 19129 molded hoses, then cut, trimmed and spliced each with a brass PEX connector to get the proper fitment, and finally "clamped" the two pieces together with Gates PowerFlex (heat shrink) hose clamps. More on this in a later post.

Mid-frame, where the hoses splice the front and rear pipes together, I used Gates 18082 molded hose, 5/8" on one end and 3/4" on the other, to accommodate the different pipe sizes, and simply sized, cut and bent the hose to fit.

In the engine bay, I used bulk 3/4" and 5/8" heater hose in most locations, and molded hose, e.g., Gates 28480 3/4" with molded 90-degree bend, to connect to the intake manifold, and a Gates 28474 (or equivalent) to join some connections at the front / rear coolant splitters (see picture). Again, these were sized and cut to fit.

In all cases, I used the Gates PowerFlex host clamps. I discuss these more in a later post.

My list of parts:

Gates 19129 ¾”dia to 5/8”dia 15" long, qty 2, modified for rear heater connections. I cut them and spliced them as shown in the picture and discussed in a later post.

Gates 18082 - 5/8"dia to 3/4"dia 18" long, qty 2, to join the lines mid-frame, i.e., beneath the passenger’s door. See my comments earlier in this post.

Gates 28480 ¾”dia 52" long, cut to fit, to join the intake manifold fitting to the tees and water valve in the engine bay.

Gates 28474 ¾”dia 10" long, cut to fit, as noted above, in the engine bay.

Bulk hose, ¾” or 5/8" as necessary, to join the lines in the engine compartment.

Constant-force clamps were used throughout; more on this in a later post.

So happy I found this thread!!! And thank you Nitro Junkie for the detailed descriptions.

I’m deleting my rear heat and think I could use the Gates molded hose by joining to flared aluminum lines in the back. And I will use the Gates Powerflex.

I have a 2011 Chevy Burb LT; how do I confirm that I’ve got 3/4” hard lines in the rear too?

 

[DeanH]

Will the Gates 28480 work over the hard lines?

 

[Schurkey]

So happy I found this thread!!! And thank you Nitro Junkie for the detailed descriptions.

I’m deleting my rear heat and think I could use the Gates molded hose by joining to flared aluminum lines in the back. And I will use the Gates Powerflex.

I have a 2011 Chevy Burb LT; how do I confirm that I’ve got 3/4” hard lines in the rear too?

1. You live in Minnesota, and you're DELETING the rear heat?

2. If you're deleting the rear heat, why do you need any of those parts? Block the coolant flow to the rear heat near the engine, scrap everything behind it.

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

I’m deleting my rear heat and think I could use the Gates molded hose by joining to flared aluminum lines in the back. And I will use the Gates Powerflex.

I have a 2011 Chevy Burb LT; how do I confirm that I’ve got 3/4” hard lines in the rear too?

Not sure what you're up to here. @Schurkey's remark seems valid.

If you want to block off the rear heat, you can do the deed up front. However, I understand that (at least in my 1998 Suburban and perhaps yours) those hoses / lines are not super-easy to access in front, so one might be inclined to do the deed in the back.

Reply and clearify your actual intentions, for our benefit.

Meanwhile, if you want to know if a hose will "fit", get a set of calipers and measure the outside diameter of the pipe. Then get a hose with an appropriate ID to fit upon it. You'll see in my posts that some of the Gates hoses I used were molded with 3/4" ID on one end and 5/8" on the other; I bought them specifically to accommodate the different sized pipes on my 1998 Suburban.

The Gates PowerGrip clamps are nice IMHO, I *do* like them, but any reasonable hose clamp will do.

 

[DeanH]

Not sure what you're up to here. @Schurkey's remark seems valid.

If you want to block off the rear heat, you can do the deed up front. However, I understand that (at least in my 1998 Suburban and perhaps yours) those hoses / lines are not super-easy to access in front, so one might be inclined to do the deed in the back.

Reply and clearify your actual intentions, for our benefit.

Meanwhile, if you want to know if a hose will "fit", get a set of calipers and measure the outside diameter of the pipe. Then get a hose with an appropriate ID to fit upon it. You'll see in my posts that some of the Gates hoses I used were molded with 3/4" ID on one end and 5/8" on the other; I bought them specifically to accommodate the different sized pipes on my 1998 Suburban.

The Gates PowerGrip clamps are nice IMHO, I *do* like them, but any reasonable hose clamp will do.

I intend to live in the Burb and travel. I’ve removed 2nd & 3rd row seats and I’m creating bed/drawers, etc with solar for frig and power needs.

I will be installing diesel heater in the rear.

I chose to delete from back cuz access from the front isn’t easy.

I measured the hard lines and they are both .50”.

 

[Schurkey]

I will be installing diesel heater in the rear.

Webasto? I installed a shitload of them in City Buses.

 

[AuroraGirl]

GM used high-quality hose permanently crimped to metal ends, because they wanted a durable, leak-free connection. That's what I'd recommend you use--OEM-style crimped hoses.

If you MUST use crappy worm-gear hose clamps, at least make sure you buy "Shielded" clamps, so the hose doesn't cold-flow through the holes in the clamp strap.

Sort of like this, although "fuel injection" clamps aren't available in sizes big enough for heater hoses, that I'm aware of.

You must be registered for see images attach

Regular "shielded" clamps would be, though. Something like this:

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Yes, you'll need to bead/flare the ends of the metal tubes the hose is clamped to.

Be sure that the hose doesn't collapse from being curved too sharply.

You can get constant tension clamps, high quality worm clamps(less biting in prone), t bar(not that small i dont think)
Standoff "T" clamps I think they are called, exist too,
if you dont care to pull it off, you could use a cinch clamp that would be one time use
I saw a new product advertised not long ago about being able to make robust clamps of any size it sounded too good to be true but i forgot what it was

 

[Schurkey]

I saw a new product advertised not long ago about being able to make robust clamps of any size it sounded too good to be true but i forgot what it was

If it's the product I'm thinking of, it wraps ordinary stainless "safety" wire around the hose to clamp it.

I'd expect that over time, you'd wind up with major hose damage from the wire cutting into the rubber.

Not something I want to risk.

www.amazon.com/Clamptite-CLT01-Stainless-Aluminum-Bronze/dp/B00XWLDZC4/ref=sr_1_3?

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