95 small block - Sluggish acceleration - is it from ESC?

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Schurkey

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my ac is ****** since the rear lines were ripped off. I thought about removing it all together but its needed for defrost and now its squealing. I guess probably because all the refrigerant leaked out and that's what keeps it lubricated up right?
If there's no refrigerant, the compressor won't engage. Therefore, it's not the compressor that's squealing.

This could be a belt/pulley problem. This could be a pulley bearing issue. If it's the bearing, you cram a new one in and the squeal should be gone.

can I bypass the rear lines, cap them off and recharge the system?
Yeah, you can cap 'em off as long as you do it "gas-tight", recharge, and have working front A/C and defrost. You'll have to be clever about the amount of refrigerant to add, since the capacity will be less due to the lack of rear A/C plumbing. And you've got to assure that there's "enough" refrigerant oil in the system, but not "too much". Thousands of years ago, we charged the system based on dash-vent temperature. Set the controls to "maximum" cooling. Push in some minimal charge--keep charging as long as the temperature at the vent is dropping. When the temp bottoms-out, then j-u-s-t begins to rise...you're done.

Takes a long time to do this. Charge a little, watch the temp. Charge a little more, watch the temp. Today's "Techs" read the number on the decal, and install that much refrigerant. Usually, that's close.

I'm not saying I recommend this, but it's do-able.
 

thegawd

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thanks Schurkey! I am going to have to dig into this soon. I really appreciate your detailed response, this is the most Iv ever read about AC. I will have to start another thread when I get there. I actually have a pile of new parts for my Burb that's guna get done one day soon.

taker easy!

Al
 

kauila

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Sluggish get up and go, hard starting, and a reduced idle seems to point to a clogged fuel filter.
 

AuroraGirl

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Why not just put a fresh bearing on the compressor clutch?
He has no ac. No refrigerant in the lines and he’s an old school prefers the windows would choose that over using ac kind of guy

I’m not like that. I may have just deleted the ac in my car but it’s getting shelvesd to winter only soon soooo lol.

I kept my v5 compresssor for rebuild since it’s original. It needs a clutch but it definitely needs internal. The thing was overfilled with stop leaks amd leak dye based on the large amount of syrupy fluid I dumped out that separated from the oil
 

AuroraGirl

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If there's no refrigerant, the compressor won't engage. Therefore, it's not the compressor that's squealing.

This could be a belt/pulley problem. This could be a pulley bearing issue. If it's the bearing, you cram a new one in and the squeal should be gone.


Yeah, you can cap 'em off as long as you do it "gas-tight", recharge, and have working front A/C and defrost. You'll have to be clever about the amount of refrigerant to add, since the capacity will be less due to the lack of rear A/C plumbing. And you've got to assure that there's "enough" refrigerant oil in the system, but not "too much". Thousands of years ago, we charged the system based on dash-vent temperature. Set the controls to "maximum" cooling. Push in some minimal charge--keep charging as long as the temperature at the vent is dropping. When the temp bottoms-out, then j-u-s-t begins to rise...you're done.

Takes a long time to do this. Charge a little, watch the temp. Charge a little more, watch the temp. Today's "Techs" read the number on the decal, and install that much refrigerant. Usually, that's close.

I'm not saying I recommend this, but it's do-able.
If you can eliminate the lines in such a way to mimic a pickups lines and compressor setup, you should be able to follow the decal on the same year truck or at least be damn close. I would assume the lines run the same route except for wheeze they obviously continue down to the rear and maybe are slightly larger diameter under hood? Compressor should be the same? If it’s a fixed output compressor I’d say go for that. If it’s variable output, you want to be more precise.
 

AuroraGirl

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Sluggish get up and go, hard starting, and a reduced idle seems to point to a clogged fuel filter.
I haven’t thought of fuel pressure yet,I know I mentioned in person to him that but forgot here. I have a gauge and he said he saw a shraeder valve(no idea where it would be?)
 
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