92 K2500 Revival

[Erik the Awful]

I wish I could remember how much I paid for my argon bottle, but I got credit for it when I paid to upgrade to a 125 cf (3.5 cubic meter) bottle. It costs me about $50-60 to refill it.

 

[Komet]

Yeah it was about $250 for the 80lb bottle and then $60 for the fill, the rest was taxes.

 

[Komet]

Boring update, got the front differential back together. Schurkey made me buy Permatex 51813 Anaerobic Gasket Maker so if it leaks it's his fault and totally not incompetence on my behalf.

I had a closer look at the junkyard NP241C after chiseling the dirt globs off it, figured out why the rear extension housing was removed from the unit at the yard:

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Somebody took the dang ol rear bearing retainer snap ring. Apparently these break, and now I've got to decide whether to find a replacement or go with a Sonnax transfer case split ring retainer so I don't end up being the guy robbing a snap ring out of junkyard transfer cases. That appears to be the only missing component, it was leaking from the rear retainer housing (someone has been in here before, it was sealed with Permatex Ultra Black) so I popped that off and cleaned it out, then sealed it back up with the 51813:

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Gears look good, I think it wasn't sitting out exposed to the weather too long, and it was during weeks of surprisingly dry weather. The oil looked fine when I drained it. I mean, there were some chunks but I'm pretending that's normal. No water, is what I'm saying.

I'm blocked on reassembling the rear extension housing because of the snap ring, but it's also damaged:

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Should I smooth it out and send it or replace? Or is that whole assembly part of the output shaft seal I need anyway? There sure is a similar one sitting next to me on that NP243. But if I rob parts from that, it's less resellable as a whole unit.

 

[Supercharged111]

I did the Sonnax kit on the NP243 in my 1500. It hadn't failed, I was in it to swap over to a 32 spline as part of my 4L80 swap. That's the path I'd choose.

 

[Orpedcrow]

Should I smooth it out and send it or replace?

I’ve done a couple of those extension housing/tail shaft bushings on some fords. They usually just punch out and punch back in.

Extension housing has to be removed to replace it, will give you a falsely leaking seal if it’s worn.

 

[Erik the Awful]

If you have time to wait for a new bushing replace it. Otherwise smooth and send it.

 

[Komet]

I have time, the lack of a snap ring means I'm waiting either way. I measured 1.375" at the indicated point on the output shaft which means Sonnax 100420-02K is the kit for me. Rockauto carries them cheaper than anywhere else, super convenient.

Busted out the M18 Shop Press:

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Zapped that bushing right outta there. Check out the gouge marks behind the rear seal from the last guy:

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What were you doing feller?! Just put it in a vise! Anyway, got a 2.01" OD on the bushing and ordered that, a new flexplate, and a fresh rear main seal since I'll be right there. Parts show up next week.

 

[Komet]

Spent some time cutting, grinding, fitting, cutting again, more grinding, more not fitting and more grinding again. I'm at the point now where the pieces fit with awkward, ugly gaps but the more gap, the more weld I need which makes more heat for better penetration, right?

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Those are loosely affixed, so the fit is a little better than shown. I took some measurements and the width and location of the differential hanger bushing is the same left to right, so I took my spare support bracket to get the rear brace locked in place:

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I want to go back and put a nice chamfer on the weld edge surfaces but the basic fitment is close enough to work out I think.

 

[Komet]

My parts came in early, Sonnax stuff is very nicely machined, the kit was a perfect fit:

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I hit the gouge peaks inside the extension housing seal surface with the dremel, everything went back together nicely so my NP241C is approved for combat duty:

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I spent some time unburying the driver's seat from spare parts and reinstalling some bumper bolts to get ready for the move. Also did the heatshrink foldy-over trick on the loose wires coming out from the passenger side engine harness area so those are ready to be banished into a dark corner under the dash. Looks like the 4wd stuff comes from over there as well, those wires are still maximum greasy.

I have also upgraded to driveway system 2.0, which now features 40% more wideness and has a second layer of wood underneath for premium garage to wood rolling. I permanently borrowed the wood from my former neighbor. He left it after the eviction, I guess his career in selling stolen construction equipment didn't pan out:

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I figure if it's good enough for submarine engineering, it's good enough for me. The narrow piece there got a little bendy so I'm hoping the decorative paver things straighten it out.

I spent the rest of the day scraping the 1/4" of oil goo off the 4L60E:

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I don't really need it clean, but I just can't stand parts so filthy they immediately contaminate anything they touch.

 

[Supercharged111]

A 4L60 fits in the dumpster the same dirty as clean.