700R4 Information Thread

[Scooterwrench]

There are aftermarket 5-pinion planetaries but I would not recommend using them...I only use OEM GM and acquire them via my local hard parts supplier or directly from a 4L65/4L70 core. I rebuilt a trans once with an aftermarket 5 pinion set and the rear planet came apart after about 2000 miles or so...trans had to come back for re-work / planet replacement...No issues with the install/fill and no lube restrictions in that system...Planet just failed. Replaced with an OEM planet and never heard from the customer again...This was about 8 years ago...

Thanks for reinforcing my doubt about the repops.
I noticed the repop didn't have the same quality in the finish as the OEM and there is something strange with the pinion thrust washers. If you look closely you'll see the tang hanging out and to me it looks like that tang could sling out into the ring gear and cause a catastrophic failure.

 

[Scooterwrench]

the oem 5 pinion planetaries are not an "upgrade"

How you figure?

 

[tayto]

How you figure?

the 4 pinion is stronger, has to do with the metallurgy of the 5 pinion gears. it was a cost cutting thing going to the 5 pinion setup, not strength

 

[NickTransmissions]

the 4 pinion is stronger, has to do with the metallurgy of the 5 pinion gears. it was a cost cutting thing going to the 5 pinion setup, not strength

Ive built numerous 700s and 4L60Es behind 500+ engines doing all sorts of HP/HD things using 4-pinion planets and they rarely fail. When they do, it's always lube related (or lack thereof). Lube mods to the sun gears help greatly at higher RPMs, as you know.

The OEM 5-p planets are solid however not worth the typical street/counter price if purchased individually. If acquired as part of a 65 or 70 core ($300 or so), they become a decent cost/benefit prop.

My .02 on them...

Thanks for reinforcing my doubt about the repops.
I noticed the repop didn't have the same quality in the finish as the OEM and there is something strange with the pinion thrust washers. If you look closely you'll see the tang hanging out and to me it looks like that tang could sling out into the ring gear and cause a catastrophic failure.

YW, Id only buy aftermarket if it's produced by companies I have good track records with.

 

[Scooterwrench]

Ive built numerous 700s and 4L60Es behind 500+ engines doing all sorts of HP/HD things using 4-pinion planets and they rarely fail. When they do, it's always lube related (or lack thereof). Lube mods to the sun gears help greatly at higher RPMs, as you know.

The OEM 5-p planets are solid however not worth the typical street/counter price if purchased individually. If acquired as part of a 65 or 70 core ($300 or so), they become a decent cost/benefit prop.

My .02 on them...


YW, Id only buy aftermarket if it's produced by companies I have good track records with.

OK, I was trying to build a bullet proof 700R4 with the idea of build it once and enjoy many miles of smiles thereafter. I don't plan on drag racing and since it's only a 1/2 ton P/U I doubt I'll ever be doing any heavy towing. As I stated before the engine is 400hp and I'll be doing a little to it while I got it out so maybe 425hp when I drop it back in.
If you think 4 pinion planetaries will hold up that would be cool,I can spend that money in other areas.
You'll have to enlighten me on these lube mods to keep everything oiled up good.

 

[NickTransmissions]

OK, I was trying to build a bullet proof 700R4 with the idea of build it once and enjoy many miles of smiles thereafter. I don't plan on drag racing and since it's only a 1/2 ton P/U I doubt I'll ever be doing any heavy towing. As I stated before the engine is 400hp and I'll be doing a little to it while I got it out so maybe 425hp when I drop it back in.
If you think 4 pinion planetaries will hold up that would be cool,I can spend that money in other areas.
You'll have to enlighten me on these lube mods to keep everything oiled up good.

Cut 3 channels 1/3 the way around each or 4 channels on the face of each sun gear at the 3,6,9 and 12 oclock positions. 1/16-18" deep and about 3/16-1/4" wide. It allows for additional lube to get to the center bearing and pinions of planetary carrier. The below is an example showing the front sun gear of a 4L60E.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[tayto]

OK, I was trying to build a bullet proof 700R4 with the idea of build it once and enjoy many miles of smiles thereafter. I don't plan on drag racing and since it's only a 1/2 ton P/U I doubt I'll ever be doing any heavy towing. As I stated before the engine is 400hp and I'll be doing a little to it while I got it out so maybe 425hp when I drop it back in.
If you think 4 pinion planetaries will hold up that would be cool,I can spend that money in other areas.
You'll have to enlighten me on these lube mods to keep everything oiled up good.

i am not saying throw the 5 pinons in the trash (unless they are aftermarket then you should). if your unit has them and they are in good shape use them. getting the hydraulics & clutch/band clearances sorted out on a 4L60/E is far more important than any aftermarket parts. you don't need a bunch of fancy parts/servos to make these units live especially if you are at or near stock power levels. vette servo is just fine for about 99% of builds. i have talked to various HP builders over the years and those lube mods they won't hurt anything, but are not required. blocking the 4th accumulators if done right will lube the gear train fulltime vs only in 4th and a far better mod IMO. run 7 borg HE 3/4 frictions and HE band. you dont need a wide band or "super" servos. I run the Vette servo and larger diameter boost valve (i like the sonnax with orings, especially on a high mileage 700 pump ). everything else tan frictions are FINE. like Nick, i make my own shift kits but theres nothing wrong with a Transgo kit, though some of their "mods" are unnecessary. remember they are In the business of selling kits,the more the end user has to "mod" the more bang for their buck they think they're getting.

if you're going to spend money, spend it on a good converter ($500 ok, $1000 a lot better)

 

[Scooterwrench]

Cut 3 channels 1/3 the way around each

Of what?

or 4 channels on the face of each sun gear at the 3,6,9 and 12 oclock positions. 1/16-18" deep and about 3/16-1/4" wide. It allows for additional lube to get to the center bearing and pinions of planetary carrier. The below is an example showing the front sun gear of a 4L60E.

You must be registered for see images attach

So the sun gear doesn't get lube oil thought the shaft? What is your thoughts of cutting those grooves in the face of the sun gear at an angle so they pull the oil inward?
When I built my TH350 I doubled the sun gear bushings and used the wide bushing in the direct drum. Are there any HD improvements like that for the 700R4

 

[NickTransmissions]

Of what?

------> the sun gears

 

[Scooterwrench]

i am not saying throw the 5 pinons in the trash (unless they are aftermarket then you should). if your unit has them and they are in good shape use them. getting the hydraulics & clutch/band clearances sorted out on a 4L60/E is far more important than any aftermarket parts. you don't need a bunch of fancy parts/servos to make these units live especially if you are at or near stock power levels. vette servo is just fine for about 99% of builds. i have talked to various HP builders over the years and those lube mods they won't hurt anything, but are not required. blocking the 4th accumulators if done right will lube the gear train fulltime vs only in 4th and a far better mod IMO. run 7 borg HE 3/4 frictions and HE band. you dont need a wide band or "super" servos. I run the Vette servo and larger diameter boost valve (i like the sonnax with orings, especially on a high mileage 700 pump ). everything else tan frictions are FINE. like Nick, i make my own shift kits but theres nothing wrong with a Transgo kit, though some of their "mods" are unnecessary. remember they are In the business of selling kits,the more the end user has to "mod" the more bang for their buck they think they're getting.

if you're going to spend money, spend it on a good converter ($500 ok, $1000 a lot better)

Yeah "shift kit" is a buzz word. When I built my TH350 I didn't use any "shift kit". I just removed the second an high accumulator springs,made spacers for them and drilled the separator plate. That tranny is still in my Elcamino and has nice positive shifts that aren't abusive. If I can do that with this tranny then I see no reason to buy a "shift kit". This truck is my daily driver. My concern is longevity and speeding clutch apply will make them last a lot longer. Anything else I can do to increase longevity I'm all in.