So i take it it worked better than expected lol
Dunno, its not on the truck.
Read up a couple posts, lots to do before it does go on.
Any results I come up with a largely useless for anyone else anyways. My truck is very "altered" as is and will be calibrated to the changes in ways very few others will be able (or afford) to duplicate.
I'm skeptical the new compressor will net any real gains. There's very little info regarding it's construction or origins and the seller is very uncooperative post sale.
It's likely some guy's "best guess" on an effective design based on what hes seen around. It looks to have been turned out on a 5 axis machine, and point milled at that. But that means nothing when a few thousandths here or there makes or breaks a compressor design. This is radically different than the OEM compressor, so it's a crap shoot either way.
I've done and LPI and eddy current inspection on it so far. At least the metal is solid so I can be confident it won't come apart right away. The LCF is concerning since the base of the disc is cut down so much and the parent material is unknown. Most compressor wheels burst in the large part of the wheel. This one was keyed (which introduces a stress riser), but it's the same type of failure:
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Here's an un-keyed one in the same failure mode:
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The root is right where the highest stress builds up in a compressor wheel:
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Right where the "internet experts" rave about more area for the blades to "flow" since it's "necked down". The impression often doesn't match the math/science.
To my engineering eye, they've traded off longevity and ultimate burst strength for a small (or perceived) increase in mass flow. It might even have messed up the compressor flow. Without seeing the design testing information, there's no way to know.
OEM manufacturers "billet" wheels are 99% of the time the exact same design as their cast wheels. Machined wheels are usually produced for low production runs or fast prototyping. Some extreme use applications use machined wheels, but mainly because of it's better LCF. But a billet wheel will perform no differently than a cast wheel, all things the same.
The reason so many "billet wheels" have popped up on the market is not because they are better, it's because they are easy to turn out on a mill and any schmuck with a cad program can make one. Flank milling can turn out a wheel in about 10 minutes:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xZOiNdkJ8SU
Easy money. And those machines are far more common and not as expensive as you may think. Pop out 5-10 and hour and all you have to do it put the blank in and walk away.
Hell, here's one done on a cheapy 5 axis:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_aLqeVJC7Ak
Anyone can pump these things out these days....
Most usually perform the same or worse than an OEM wheel. The work that goes in to designing a good compressor is staggering. I'm often surprised that a holset or garret only cost a grand or two.
To expect some guy in his basement or garage or corner machine shop to spin up a better design is just not reasonable.
IF they get it right (or better) it's on the same level an "immaculate conception" or "divine intervention" scenario.
For consideration: the "batmowheel" was launched to much internet hype. It looked sexy, the blades looked aggressive and it made one heck of a whine. However, it's been proven time and time again on various egnines and dyno's to produce LESS hp and higher IAT's than the OEM compressor.
The "wicked" wheel was originally just a previous superduty turbo OEM design that proved to be better than the one that was in the trucks at the time. You could get the same thing at the Ford parts counter. Then they started pumping out their own compressors when they made some money. I'm not sure if they have ever been proven or dis-proven on any new designs.
I had a GM8 with a cracked OEM compressor, so it needed a compressor either way. I caught the crack on a couple leading edges on an inspection, so no damage was ever done. That's the great thing about OEM parts: they absorb lots of damage before catastrophic failure, which gives you a fighting chance to catch it before things go completely wrong.
For 125 bucks I'm willing to play around with this one on a dyno day and see what I can get. Inspection cycle will have to be steeped up if I do decide to leave it installed. The thinner blades and a few other things will make it far less damage tolerant. Good thing about my engine is there is no way a burst wheel can make it into the engine. It will just frag and otherwise good turbo housing.
The boys in the shop are interested to see what comes out of it too....but we are all very skeptical.
