5.3 or 5.7, which would you do?

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BoominSVX

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Okay guys, I have a few questions from those that have been there and what they've found during personal experience. I have two options right now. It stems from the blown up 5.7 in my escalade. No, not toasted, but it was a parts truck pull just to get it moving with 250k on her already, and at about 300k, she dumped her coolant and oiled the overflow bottle. So here's the deal:

I have my old 5.7 in my other escalade. It only has about 130k on it. I had a lower intake leak, and just went all the way down to the pistons at about 110k. Cleaned, cut and lapped, checked and decked, even pulled every lifter apart and cleaned them. This engine is half out of the truck right now, but I'm at a stand still due to a recent development.

A week ago, I picked up a parts truck for my 02 sierra. It's a 2000 sierra with a nicer body than mine, but a rotted frame. I'll be ripping this truck apart for pieces. It came with a 5.3L LM7 and runs like a champ with 140k on the clock.

Here's the question. I have a 14bolt in the caddy already. Trans may be an issue, but I have a 4l80e as well as a 4l85e here already in case it goes south. The caddy may do some light pulling. Horse trailers and occasionally car trailer loaded with whatever I find. The sierra with the 4.8 sucks for towing. I thought I killed it last time. downshifting to 3rd and standing on the pedal to get up a hill is not my favorite way to move something down the highway above 40mph. The 5.7 has the torque. I can do a RamJet cam, 1.6 roller rockers, and pull a 3" y-pipe from the express van to open up some power while keeping it a daily that she can drive This brings the torque up substantially (around 400ft lbs at the flywheel) on the already larger displacement engine, or I can do some work to the 5.3 and swap it in. I'm still researching the best way to build 400ft lbs of torque out of a 5.3. The 0411 PCM is already here anyway, but that doesn't mean it'll be a better scenario. Either one can be tuned.

Vortec 350 5.7: Freshly rebuild top end, no leaks or coolant loss. RamJet cam ($168), 1.6 roller rockers (Found em for 75 bucks local), New front and rear mains, T-stat, Plugs, wires cap and rotor, Maybe an e-fan setup (two fans from the boneyard and a relay for like 40 bucks last time I did it), and a chevy express manifold with 3" Y-pipe into dual 50 series with turn downs. All of that can be done for about 400 bucks.

Vortec 5.3L LM7: My bro did this in his tahoe with a 6.0, but the wiring harness alone cost him 700. I plan to make mine. Still need plates and other parts for the swap. I should have most of it. All the same tune-up stuff. Find a cam/rocker setup that'll bring the torque up (though it doesn't look easy on the 5.3), and get the better fuel mileage of a smaller engine. Lots of aftermarket stuff out there for the 5.3, but it all seems to cost more than the 5.7 stuff these days. I think 400ft lbs of torque is going to eat about the same amount of fuel with either engine, but the coil on plug stuff has an advantage over the spider in the 5.7.

What would you do? 500 bucks. You already have both engines. No turbos or S/C's. The one going in needs to be a little more capable of moving this heavy slug of a soccer mom whip. I just need this one running so I can take the sierra off the road and get some things out of the way on the "Winter truck".
 

skylark

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500 bucks kills the 5.3. You would have to go the 5.7 route. Honestly the 5.7 fits your budget and end goal. If it were me I would do the 5.3 with bolt ons and a cam but your budget would be 1500+. I like the 5.7 but the 5.3 is a much better engine and has more potential and will handle abuse better than a SBC.
 

BoominSVX

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I kind of figured as much. I have a duramax on the bleeding edge of imploding the allison and a Tercel 1.5L 5spd that I use in the summer, and the sierra and escalade for winter. As I call them "Race truck", "Little car", "poopy truck" and "dinner date" respectively. Dumping money in to a 99 GMT400 instead of building up my transmission in the duramax is a little tuff to justify. Either way, I'll have an engine sitting on the ground ready to be installed into the Cadillac within a few weeks, and I might as well make it capable of handling the big SUV a little better. I lined up the escalade with my sierra once, and the damn 350 smoked the 4.8 even with 3 15's in the back and a 4500watt amp the size of a Yugo. Yes, the 5.3 is stronger than the 4.8, but I've not seen much in the pulling department for the LSx shy of the 6.0 with a tune, and even that wanted to rev high in the rpm range. After half throttle, the LSx just starts making noise. Both are 3:73 with the pickup probably being a little lighter, so with such a small difference in power and tune-ability, the 5.7L does make sense. They used to tell me "There's no replacement for displacement". Staying N/A, I suppose that's true. She's pretty much taken over the caddy now. The ramjet cam should clear on 1.6 rollers, but if I have an issue, it won't be anything a lewis tool or a couple of ls6 beehive springs and 787-16 retainers can't fix. I even thought about shoehorning the LBZ duramax I have out back into it, but then I have to pull that one out, combine the harness, rebuild the trans for 4x4 and build mounts and I/C piping. The plan was to drop that in to an 85 K30, but finding a nice cab and a 90 suburban T-case is getting harder these days. Ughhh, so much going on. I appreciate the input from Oregon.

1 vote for the 5.7! Can I get a second on that motion?
 

OutlawDrifter

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+1 for the 5.7 with the RamJet cam.

It will outlug the 5.3 anyday. I'm very familiar with both engine families, and have done my own swaps. The 5.7 is the better choice in this case, especially with the budget.
 

BoominSVX

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I kind of figured. Tharf took some pictures of my yard once while he was tuning my brother's tahoe. I don't remember where he put em, but it looks like a FSC parking lot. The 350 seemed like the better choice to me as well, but sometimes you need to ask because "You don't know what you don't know". (Quoted because someone said that to me once) I'm resourceful and could PROBABLY get that 5.3 in there for about 500, but it'd need more than a cam and rockers to beat the 350 from what I can see. Parts for the old platform are cheap as dirt and easy to find. If I had a 6.0 sitting here with 130k, I'd be all for it. My 5.3 might even be the 99 model, making it 270hp instead of 285. If that's the case, it'd only have 15 more ponies than the 5.7 and 15ft lbs LESS than the 5.7L. Nobody can tell me why the 99 LM7 had less power than the 2000. They just know the reported specs changed. Express/savanna vans with MPFI are in the junkyard now all over the place, so even the spider could be upgraded for pennies if I wanted to port/polish/bore all air flow. Marine intakes, 24x coil over plug and external fuel rails all exist for this engine now. 0411 PCM's let you tune for just about anything you can imagine. All/Any of this can be done as I happen to come across things of interest while wandering the planet. She's far from dead.

Thank you for the input. I like where this is going.
 

skylark

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Tharf took some pictures of my yard once while he was tuning my brother's tahoe. I don't remember where he put em, but it looks like a FSC parking lot.
Like this? If you look closely you can see all 5 of ours.
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BoominSVX

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Like this? If you look closely you can see all 5 of ours.

LOL, Kind of. I just went hunting for it, but he only has 5 of the 13 that were here when the pic was taken. The Ricer is his obviously. Now it's a mix of 400's and 800's. Almost all of the 400's are still here though.

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slowburb

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Reading along, and agree with the group. L31 with that cam will be sweet. Even better with exhaust, possibly 2500/3500 headpipes...they're way bigger than half ton pipes. Then, even better yet with the rocker arms. I'd be leary of 78 dollar rockers. Just saying.

I'm completely biased though. I drive a lifted 4x4 Suburban with a ramjet cammed 350. :D
 

BoominSVX

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Reading along, and agree with the group. L31 with that cam will be sweet. Even better with exhaust, possibly 2500/3500 headpipes...they're way bigger than half ton pipes. Then, even better yet with the rocker arms. I'd be leary of 78 dollar rockers. Just saying.

I'm completely biased though. I drive a lifted 4x4 Suburban with a ramjet cammed 350. :D


Lol, yea. I've seen a few other posts from you offering advice. The $75 dollar rockers are Comp Cams. He used them for a dyno run and pulled em off. I also found some aluminum narrow body from summit for 100, but I like the name on the first set. :D Can anyone tell me if the 395WB cam is the same as the Ram Jet? I found this. Just curious. I'd appreciate it if someone didn't buy it out from under me if so. The numbers are 56, but I see 66 everywhere else. Can't tell if he's mistaken on the 56 or if this is a legitimate RamJat cam.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Volvo-Penta...ash=item4d417f6b2b:g:gZ4AAOSwG-1W0LtC&vxp=mtr

If it is the right one, It won't hurt the budget.

I can get a whole exhaust from a 2500, but I've seen someone upgrade to 3" true dual and lose that torque. They gained horsepower, but it took 4500+ rpm to find it again. Stock 2500 piping with the kitty removed and some 50 series twins would probably give me a little growl, but keep the back pressure. Do the 2500 pipes Y down into 1 after the muffler like the LSx engines do? That would seem like the best setup. Breathes, but retains back pressure. 2500 everything. The boneyard wants 35 for the aluminized pipe from Y-pipe to tip without cats. Someone, somewhere has a calculator for this.
 
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BoominSVX

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I just remembered where it came from. One of my duramax forums. The exhaust starts out of the engine extremely hot. With such heat, you have extreme expansion of air... and thus pressure. Long tube headers can start the cooling process, but if the flow isn't excessive, shorty's with a large Y pipe will do it. After the cats are removed, you are less likely to build up heat at that particular restriction point. Actually, a large hollow cat would help cool things more. Then the muffler comes in. It just basically equalizes pressures and continues the cooling. By the time the tailpipe comes in to play, the exhaust system has cooled enough to allow free flowing ability through a tail pipe with a smaller diameter. Basically, large fronts and smaller rears will flow just as well. This is why the anger about GM's down-pipe size limit being such a poor decision. Everyone is caught up in loud pipes. She's gonna be driving this thing, and I want torque, so screw blowing money I don't need to blow. My stock tail is 3" I believe. I can do this without even losing the oval escalade tip. Mr. Gasket to Shorty's, a 2500 Y pipe without cat, through the flange of the 2500, test pipes welded in, Flowmaster dual in dual out 2.25, LSx dual 2.25 to single 3", welded to stock tail forward of the rear axle. No Problem. Flows nice. Looks stock, Sounds nice. Keeps torque. Sound legit? Aww crap, I just got old. I know where everything is that I would need except for the headers.
 
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