5.7 TBI to 5.3 LM7

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D-Day

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I started saving my money and working on my LS swap well before my engine took a dive. Tear down found #3 and 4 cam bearings had spun. Lucky I found a machine shop that was able to repair and install new camshaft bearings. Found some worn push rods and rock arms. The engine need some attention and timing would have it, I had it on the stand put back together slightly before my old engine spun a bearing.
 

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D-Day

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Sad Day. November last year pulling my camper Phoenix to Flagstaff for a deer hunt started to hear a knocking about halfway up. Had to get it towed home. More then likely spun connecting rod bearing. FYI this is the 5.7 I've pulled out. The picture of the cloth is the what was in the oil filter housing that I strained through an old t-shirt.
 

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D-Day

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January 2024- Preparing for installation.
 

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D-Day

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Instead of going through the wiring harness that came with the engine I purchased one from Painless Wiring. Which was a good thing. The seller cut out the injector harnesses. Between Painless Wiring and my print outs from All Data DIY as well as a lot of patience with a voltmeter I believe the wiring portion is complete.
 

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D-Day

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Night Bomber thanks for the ideas for installing a rheostat for the power steering EVO. I found something easier for my circumstances. Dorman makes a Steering Bypass kit. It removes the EVO and installs an adapter and tube.
 

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D-Day

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Today I am back to wiring. Took 4 gauge wire to run from the alternator to the Battery bus. I used the donor car Fusible Link that went from the alternator to battery cable. That Fusible Link I soldered to the 4 gauge just prior to the Battery bus. Then ran a length of 4 gauge down to the starter, then from there is the 1 gauge wire that runs to the battery. I was on the fence if the Fusible Link was just overthinking.
 

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L31MaxExpress

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The fuse link is not overthinking. I wired the bus bar to the battery with 6 awg and a 10 awg fuse link and the same for the alternator output on the 87 G20 I just re-wired. Fuse link should be 4 gauges smaller than the wire it protects and be fuseible link wire. Be sure to upgrade your grounds as well. I built 2awg battery cables and went to a top post 24R on the G20 too. Not a fan of side posts and the 24R also happens to be the same case size as two Nissans and a Kubota tractor we own just in case that interchangability is needed some day.

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