I wasn't doing a flush. I just wanted to change the filter and replace whatever fluid was in the pan.
4L60E rebuild. What did I get myself into...? :P
- Thread starter BC K1500
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Still might as well drop the cooler tube. But why not flush (nearly) all the fluid instead of about half?
Pictures? was it ferrous, non-ferrous? sounds like the filter doing it's job. yes adding a drain plug is a good idea. i get a nut welded inJust wanted to update this thread as I have put in over 3k on the car since the rebuild.
I just recently changed the ATF and filter.
I opened the filter and found some metal shavings, I hope this is normal after a rebuild?
Otherwise the transmission is running strong no problems.
BTW, did anyone install a drain plug on their transmission pan? It's a real nasty messy job to drain the pan.
It is mostly ferrous mostly. Also there is a few crumbs of some old petrified O rings in the filter, It makes me think that most of the stuff was probably sitting in the cooler and just didn't get flushed out by CoolerKleen as it was more of a flow trough than pressure. Is that possible?
I guess the next filter change will shed more light.
I got some pictures, it looks worse than it actually is as it is fairly zoomed in.
Thanks
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could definitely be from the cooler. there's not really enough stuff there to say that something is currently making metal IMO. It's natural for the gears to shed metal, as well as bronze show up from bearings.
i think my previous post got cut off, but I weld a nut in the pan and use a GM drain plug. if you have a shallow oan the factory deep pan is a nice upgrade too, make sure you use the correct filter.
As far as doing a fluid exchange, totally not necessary. with low miles I would even save what came put of the pan and pour it back in with a paint filter to catch any crud. you really only need to change fluid when it gets brown in colour and starts to smells.... but i am also a fan of draining pan (about 3.5L) and replace it up every 25,000km.
or
PS: glad to hear everything is still working good. are you still happy with the shift firmness?
i think my previous post got cut off, but I weld a nut in the pan and use a GM drain plug. if you have a shallow oan the factory deep pan is a nice upgrade too, make sure you use the correct filter.
As far as doing a fluid exchange, totally not necessary. with low miles I would even save what came put of the pan and pour it back in with a paint filter to catch any crud. you really only need to change fluid when it gets brown in colour and starts to smells.... but i am also a fan of draining pan (about 3.5L) and replace it up every 25,000km.
or
PS: glad to hear everything is still working good. are you still happy with the shift firmness?
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General best practice is to flush the lines and trans cooler(s) to prevent contaminating the rebuilt trans w/debris generated during its previous life...If it's shifting/operating normally, I'd not worry. Do a flush of the lines/cooler in combination with any planned near-future fluid / filter change so you remove any residuals if you haven't done so already (I admit, didn't read the other six pages)...You DO NOT have to flush the trans itself...
That said, congrats on the overhaul.
Hbrent
Newbie
Hey guys, first time caller here, have had great fun reading through this thread as I am mid way through rebuilding my 700r4 out of a 1988 GMC.
I have been following through a highly informative you tube video on a channel called Automatic Transmission by a guy called Hiram (I forget his last name).
I just have a question in regards to the reverse input piston. It has the two lip seals, I really struggled to get it into its housing, even using the loop lip seal. I eventually jammed it into place but it’s really really tight, and i noticed two small pieces of seal material had broken off once i got it into place, so clearly i have damaged this seal while negotiating it.
What do you think? I should really remove this piston put new seals and try again aye. But i tell you what, the piston is so tight in place it’ll be a battle and a half getting it out.
The other pistons with lip seals went into place with ease.
Opinions much appreciated.
I have been following through a highly informative you tube video on a channel called Automatic Transmission by a guy called Hiram (I forget his last name).
I just have a question in regards to the reverse input piston. It has the two lip seals, I really struggled to get it into its housing, even using the loop lip seal. I eventually jammed it into place but it’s really really tight, and i noticed two small pieces of seal material had broken off once i got it into place, so clearly i have damaged this seal while negotiating it.
What do you think? I should really remove this piston put new seals and try again aye. But i tell you what, the piston is so tight in place it’ll be a battle and a half getting it out.
The other pistons with lip seals went into place with ease.
Opinions much appreciated.
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Remove the piston and replace the lip seal...otherwise it will slip/burn..put the rev drum on the assembled pump without any return spring, shoot compressed air into the pump's rev input feed and that should pop it out for you.
I also have a youtube channel with a complete 700R rebuild series if you need any guidance or questions answered that Hiram's video doesn't cover (Hiram is awesome, btw - knows his stuff forwards and back and is a joy to watch).
> Have you installed late model steel/rubber pistons and updated return spring in the fwd drum?
> Are you installing Transgo's Sk700r4 JR shift kit and bigger .472 boost valve?
> What's your clearance in the 3-4 clutch pack?
haroldwca
Newbie
Hiram Gutierrez is the name I believe you are referring to. He is an absolute wizard with the 4L60e. His y-tube video is 2+ hours detailing a full rebuild. He talks through all of the decisions, and explains everything. I have rebuilt a few 4L60e transmissions, and I use Mr. Gutierrez' video on teardown and rebuild. For anyone attempting this, take LOTS of photos of everything including orientation of parts. As far as the naysayers go, rebuilding an automatic transmission is a very detailed procedure. If you are not a very detailed person, DON'T do this. On the other hand, if you are detail oriented and enjoy the challenge of learning new automotive procedures, there is no reason not to try.
As for special tools, yes to the teflon seal installation gizmos, yes to the shop press (for heaven's sake, don't use a hammer), spring for the replacement separator plate if your check ball has begun wearing into the plate. It was less than $30 on my last rebuild. If you're doing an "e" transmission, replace the wiring harness and both shift solenoids. (You only want to go in once.) Some say replace the sun shell with the heavier unit. It's around $60. Your money, you decide. I've never upgraded my servo, but I've always done a stock rebuild for a stock application. I don't tow heavy trailers, and I don't race my truck. Again, your money, you decide. Always replace frictions and steels. Not doing so would be like tearing down an engine for rebuild and not replacing the rings. Just don't. Last time, all in I had about $800 in the rebuild with torque converter. And yes, you can use a pressure washer to clean the case. Just blow out all of the oil passages with compressed air, and lubricate with WD-40 for good measure.
Global Transmission sells everything you could possibly need. Kits are available, and tailored to different needs. If you need individual parts that are not included in the kit, they will have them. Only issue is, if you screw up a bushing and have to order a new one, shipping will outstrip the price of the bushing. But that's true with nearly everything these days. I actually have made a friendly acquaintance at a local transmission shop. I did the same "bump the table and everything goes flying" move with my valve body. No two drawings on the internet showed the same orientation, and none looked exactly like mine. I walked in, showed them where I goofed, and in 10 minutes they had it together. They charged me nothing. I offered to pay. They said just be sure to come back to them if I needed service. And I will.
As for special tools, yes to the teflon seal installation gizmos, yes to the shop press (for heaven's sake, don't use a hammer), spring for the replacement separator plate if your check ball has begun wearing into the plate. It was less than $30 on my last rebuild. If you're doing an "e" transmission, replace the wiring harness and both shift solenoids. (You only want to go in once.) Some say replace the sun shell with the heavier unit. It's around $60. Your money, you decide. I've never upgraded my servo, but I've always done a stock rebuild for a stock application. I don't tow heavy trailers, and I don't race my truck. Again, your money, you decide. Always replace frictions and steels. Not doing so would be like tearing down an engine for rebuild and not replacing the rings. Just don't. Last time, all in I had about $800 in the rebuild with torque converter. And yes, you can use a pressure washer to clean the case. Just blow out all of the oil passages with compressed air, and lubricate with WD-40 for good measure.
Global Transmission sells everything you could possibly need. Kits are available, and tailored to different needs. If you need individual parts that are not included in the kit, they will have them. Only issue is, if you screw up a bushing and have to order a new one, shipping will outstrip the price of the bushing. But that's true with nearly everything these days. I actually have made a friendly acquaintance at a local transmission shop. I did the same "bump the table and everything goes flying" move with my valve body. No two drawings on the internet showed the same orientation, and none looked exactly like mine. I walked in, showed them where I goofed, and in 10 minutes they had it together. They charged me nothing. I offered to pay. They said just be sure to come back to them if I needed service. And I will.
Yep, pics are your friend when just getting started. Keeping them organized is just as critical as is a clean work space.
Fitzall makes a $5 kit to repair separator plates where check balls have worn. One package repairs 6 holes.
I replace all electrical parts (harness, psm, all solenoids, vss, mlps (96-08/IMS 09+) on all 4L60Es and 96-06 run a Fitzall tcc valve to permanently fix that bore (p1870, late harsh 1-2 upshifts)
For those that dont have bushing driver sets, a local trans shop can r/r bushings for $150 or so...
Special tools:
Input shaft sealing ring expander and sizer: expander is optional and the sizer can be a hose clamp and the pump stator itself
Return spring compressors - harbor freight tool will service most common drum set ups and is fine for occasinal use
Air compressor and nozzle for air checks
Valve train line ups can be frustrating - there were three or four different variations between 1982-1993 that i have personally seen so pics of the line ups are critical until you've done enough of them.
ATSG manual - must have.
