4L60E rebuild. What did I get myself into...? :P

[Hbrent]

Remove the piston and replace the lip seal...otherwise it will slip/burn..put the rev drum on the assembled pump without any return spring, shoot compressed air into the pump's rev input feed and that should pop it out for you.

I also have a youtube channel with a complete 700R rebuild series if you need any guidance or questions answered that Hiram's video doesn't cover (Hiram is awesome, btw - knows his stuff forwards and back and is a joy to watch).

> Have you installed late model steel/rubber pistons and updated return spring in the fwd drum?
> Are you installing Transgo's Sk700r4 JR shift kit and bigger .472 boost valve?
> What's your clearance in the 3-4 clutch pack?

 

[Hbrent]

Yep, thanks for your reply, figured that was what needed doing in regards to the lip seal and piston….. I’ve just ordered two more sets and will attack it again.
I haven’t updated the pistons, do you think it’s best I do?
I haven’t updated the return spring, do you also recommend to?
Yep, have installed a JR kit and bigger boost valve, installed yesterday.
Being down in New Zealand I haven’t necessarily got quick access to all these parts, I can buy stuff on your Amazon, Summit Racing and stuff but does take time to get to me.
I’m guided by Hiram with the 3-4 clearance, I haven’t installed the clutches yet, but he has his clearance at 0.052, so will hopefully be at that.

 

[Hbrent]

Yep, pics are your friend when just getting started. Keeping them organized is just as critical as is a clean work space.

Fitzall makes a $5 kit to repair separator plates where check balls have worn. One package repairs 6 holes.

I replace all electrical parts (harness, psm, all solenoids, vss, mlps (96-08/IMS 09+) on all 4L60Es and 96-06 run a Fitzall tcc valve to permanently fix that bore (p1870, late harsh 1-2 upshifts)

For those that dont have bushing driver sets, a local trans shop can r/r bushings for $150 or so...

Special tools:

Input shaft sealing ring expander and sizer: expander is optional and the sizer can be a hose clamp and the pump stator itself

Return spring compressors - harbor freight tool will service most common drum set ups and is fine for occasinal use

Air compressor and nozzle for air checks

Valve train line ups can be frustrating - there were three or four different variations between 1982-1993 that i have personally seen so pics of the line ups are critical until you've done enough of them.

ATSG manual - must have.

Thanks for your reply…..

I have ended up having to invest a wee few $$ into this for tools and so forth which I have most definitely needed, list has included but not limited to:

Transmission Jack
2 x specialised spring compressor tools
Picks and ring pliers
Bushing drivers

the spring compressors I had to order on your Amazon, I’m down in New Zealand and I couldn’t find them anywhere here. So some things have been a challenge to get.

I haven’t got the ATSG manual yet, but Hiram makes reference to it a wee bit, so I’m going to purchase.

 

[NickTransmissions]

Yep, thanks for your reply, figured that was what needed doing in regards to the lip seal and piston….. I’ve just ordered two more sets and will attack it again.
I haven’t updated the pistons, do you think it’s best I do?
I have ordered new return springs for the forward drum, they had been previously removed. Hiram recommended Re-installing them.
Yep, have installed a JR kit and bigger boost valve, installed yesterday.
Being down in New Zealand I haven’t necessarily got quick access to all these parts, I can buy stuff on your Amazon, Summit Racing and stuff but does take time to get to me.
I’m guided by Hiram with the 3-4 clearance, I haven’t installed the clutches yet, but he has his clearance at 0.052, so will hopefully be at that.

You're welcome...Delete the load release springs. They were originally installed from the factory to prevent centrifugal apply at high rpm however it was never a problem in stock applications, especially after GM enhanced the bleed-off capsule design in the drum starting in late '84. Keep clearance to around .050 (.052 is perfectly fine). If you end up with .030-.035 then reinstall the load release springs (you can remove one spring from each assembly if you want).

Update the pistons and purchase the updated return spring assembly.
I throw the aluminum ones in the scrap bin for the recycling yard. GM moved to that design for longevity and reliability (and to drive down warranty claims associated w/the forward piston cracking), starting with the 3-4 piston in '93 and to the other two in '97+.

Make sure you replace the input sprag clutch as well with a Borg Warner 29 element unit. Use some 400 grit sand paper to work over the inner diameter of the outer race so that you can reintroduce cross hatching which gives the new sprag a nice surface to "bite" into when it holds.

One last thing - Pressure test your drum to validate there's no leaks at the input shaft-drum junction in any of the feed circuits (forward, 3-4 and coast clutch). Do this when your forward drum is fully assembled but before you install the sealing rings on the turbine shaft.
I show this process starting at 1:25:00 of my 700R4 tear down and inspection video.

What happened to the transmission that required it to be rebuilt (i.e. what failed)?

 

[Hbrent]

You're welcome...Delete the load release springs. They were originally installed from the factory to prevent centrifugal apply at high rpm however it was never a problem in stock applications, especially after GM enhanced the bleed-off capsule design in the drum starting in late '84. Keep clearance to around .050 (.052 is perfectly fine). If you end up with .030-.035 then reinstall the load release springs (you can remove one spring from each assembly if you want).

Update the pistons and purchase the updated return spring assembly.
I throw the aluminum ones in the scrap bin for the recycling yard. GM moved to that design for longevity and reliability (and to drive down warranty claims associated w/the forward piston cracking), starting with the 3-4 piston in '93 and to the other two in '97+.

Make sure you replace the input sprag clutch as well with a Borg Warner 29 element unit. Use some 400 grit sand paper to work over the inner diameter of the outer race so that you can reintroduce cross hatching which gives the new sprag a nice surface to "bite" into when it holds.

One last thing - Pressure test your drum to validate there's no leaks at the input shaft-drum junction in any of the feed circuits (forward, 3-4 and coast clutch). Do this when your forward drum is fully assembled but before you install the sealing rings on the turbine shaft.
I show this process starting at 1:25:00 of my 700R4 tear down and inspection video.

What happened to the transmission that required it to be rebuilt (i.e. what failed)?

Okay sweet, few more things to buy, new pistons, return spring assembly and new input sprag clutch. I’ll most certainly do as you recommend.
I have hit the link and found your videos, they seem thorough and informative. May have to consider shelving Hiram.
I did actually click on one of your videos a couple of days ago, the one about the different valve bodies….. I had just finished installing a few of those upgrades on mine via Hiram’s video and I was curious about the different types, and your video popped up on a search.
One day I went to drive the truck, and I only had first….. it would try and move into second but would just slip and it was like I was in neutral again. Could creep along at about 40-45kp/h in first but if I pushed it, it’d try and move to second and then I’d be going nowhere.
Adjusted the TV cable, but that didn’t seem to be the issue.
Since disassembly I have found the 3-4 clutches completely burnt and stripped… so I’m kinda guessing that was my issue? Haven’t found too many other things inside the unit which look to be in a horrible shape.

 

[Hbrent]

You must be registered for see images attach

Something like this set Nick?

 

[Erik the Awful]

Yep, thanks for your reply, figured that was what needed doing in regards to the lip seal and piston….. I’ve just ordered two more sets and will attack it again.

I wish I had a pic of my seal installer handy. It's basically loops of .035" wire and .025" wire crimped into opposite ends of a 6" piece of copper tubing. I made it when I was in transmission class twenty-seven years ago. It's used to tuck those seals in as you're putting your transmission together.

For the teflon seals, I didn't bother buying the tool. I got a flat piece of plastic soda bottle and some hose clamps. Once you get those teflon seals in place, wrap them with the soda bottle and put a hose clamp over each teflon seal and let it sit for a day or more to shrink them back down. You can then use the soda bottle for installation.

 

[NickTransmissions]

You must be registered for see images attach

Something like this set Nick?

Yep - that's what you need!

Okay sweet, few more things to buy, new pistons, return spring assembly and new input sprag clutch. I’ll most certainly do as you recommend.
I have hit the link and found your videos, they seem thorough and informative. May have to consider shelving Hiram.
I did actually click on one of your videos a couple of days ago, the one about the different valve bodies….. I had just finished installing a few of those upgrades on mine via Hiram’s video and I was curious about the different types, and your video popped up on a search.
One day I went to drive the truck, and I only had first….. it would try and move into second but would just slip and it was like I was in neutral again. Could creep along at about 40-45kp/h in first but if I pushed it, it’d try and move to second and then I’d be going nowhere.
Adjusted the TV cable, but that didn’t seem to be the issue.
Since disassembly I have found the 3-4 clutches completely burnt and stripped… so I’m kinda guessing that was my issue? Haven’t found too many other things inside the unit which look to be in a horrible shape.

90% of the 700R4s and 4L60Es we see come in for 3-4 clutch pack failure. It's the single weakest point in those transmissions. Band failure, sun shell failure and pump breakdowns are the other three most common problems plaguing those transmissions.

One last thing (apologies in advance if I already mentioned it somewhere) but replace your TV cable as well. Over time they wear out and may or may not hold adjustment when you go to put the trans back in.
Refer to these instructions when installing, setting up and adjusting your new TV cable. Acquire a transmission pressure gauge (if you don't already have one) so that you can validate your adjustments are correct by taking pressure readings in P, R, N, D, D3, 2 and 1 both at idle and at 1000 RPMs

Let me know if you have any other questions and we can go from there.

 

[Hbrent]

Yep - that's what you need!



90% of the 700R4s and 4L60Es we see come in for 3-4 clutch pack failure. It's the single weakest point in those transmissions. Band failure, sun shell failure and pump breakdowns are the other three most common problems plaguing those transmissions.

One last thing (apologies in advance if I already mentioned it somewhere) but replace your TV cable as well. Over time they wear out and may or may not hold adjustment when you go to put the trans back in.
Refer to these instructions when installing, setting up and adjusting your new TV cable. Acquire a transmission pressure gauge (if you don't already have one) so that you can validate your adjustments are correct by taking pressure readings in P, R, N, D, D3, 2 and 1 both at idle and at 1000 RPMs

Let me know if you have any other questions and we can go from there.

Thanks heaps for your time on this Nick, is much appreciated…..
Would a TCI element 29 forward sprag be alright? I know Borg Warner is the premium, but they’re not available for delivery to NZ on Amazon, there are other companies in the US that will deliver them but at ridiculous prices ($140US delivery cost!).
Summit Racing is NZ delivery friendly but can only find a TCI one on there site, says it’s an upgrade from the earlier weaker ones.
Yes i was thinking about the TV cable, seems to be such a critical part of these transmissions that a replacement could be in order.
Would the transmission gauge be like a dash mounted gauge?

 

[NickTransmissions]

Thanks heaps for your time on this Nick, is much appreciated…..
Would a TCI element 29 forward sprag be alright? I know Borg Warner is the premium, but they’re not available for delivery to NZ on Amazon, there are other companies in the US that will deliver them but at ridiculous prices ($140US delivery cost!).
Summit Racing is NZ delivery friendly but can only find a TCI one on there site, says it’s an upgrade from the earlier weaker ones.
Yes i was thinking about the TV cable, seems to be such a critical part of these transmissions that a replacement could be in order.
Would the transmission gauge be like a dash mounted gauge?

You're welcome, man. Wow-had no idea the BW sprag would cost so much there, damn! The TCI sprag should be fine.

Here's a transmission pressure gauge. The link is to American Amazon but you should be able to find it or something similar in NZ.