4L60E rebuild. What did I get myself into...? :P

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tayto

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I finally did tackle cleaning the valve body.
I was very diligent on sorting parts out but I bumped the table and stuff got mixed up. :oops:

I found a diagram and put it back together but there are some things I need help whit.

1) I am not sure where the bore plug retainer supposed to go.
Does it go in the first or second slot?

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BC K1500

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you want to install the isolator valve BACKWARDS. Flip it 180* and install it this way. This will turn your TCC into an on/off arrangement vs PWM. This is recommended in ALL builds.
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EDIT: here is some more stuff you should get for your valve body that I do on all builds:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4272747 (order 2x)
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4272912 (pack of 5)
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4270461 (prevent future separator plate wear, VERY common on this trans)
I have not thought about replacing those parts but it makes perfect sense, I'll put them on my list.
Thank you.

(7) .080" Borg Warner "HE" High Energy frictions

(6) .077" 700R4 steels (standard steels is fine here)

OEM .193" backing plate 24212460

OEM .220" apply plate 08685044

OEM .093" snap ring

Make sure your 3/4 apply ring is stamped with a number "7"! This should stackup with .030-.040" clearance, DO NOT GO LOOSER! Try calling a place called "King-O-Matic" they can get you the part numbers for the clutches and steels, then you can call Lordco and get them to order the parts from King-O-matic.
It took me a while to figure out what we are doing here.

I think I was able to find the (7) .080" Borg Warner "HE" High Energy frictions Is this the right part? Do I need 7 of these?

I can't find the ".077" 700R4 steels" on rock auto website. Maybe I'm just not searching right?

I found this kit BORG-WARNER 34036KIT would this be a good alternative to buying parts separately?
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Thank you.
 
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BC K1500

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I figured it out after a bit of logical reasoning. :cool:
Would you mind sharing what book is that picture from?
Thank you.
 

BC K1500

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This is my shopping cart as of now; Rockauto It looks like it won't be cheap. Anything else I need to add to the list?

I couldn't find a set of the molded pistons. It looks like I'll have to buy them separately.
Does anyone have a link to a set of those?

Thank you.
 

tayto

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I have not thought about replacing those parts but it makes perfect sense, I'll put them on my list.
Thank you.


It took me a while to figure out what we are doing here.

I think I was able to find the (7) .080" Borg Warner "HE" High Energy frictions Is this the right part? Do I need 7 of these?

I can't find the ".077" 700R4 steels" on rock auto website. Maybe I'm just not searching right?

I found this kit BORG-WARNER 34036KIT would this be a good alternative to buying parts separately?
You must be registered for see images attach

Thank you.
that's good you found the clutches... I would try and get the steels locally or try another website. Use the setup I have listed it is a good pack with a much tighter clearance thab stock (good thing!) I wouldn't bother with the BW kit. With that being said, if your other clutchpacks look good I would not hesitate to reuse them and try and keep costs down.... Make sure to flip that isolator valve, you do not want to keep PWM lockup!
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I figured it out after a bit of logical reasoning. :cool:
Would you mind sharing what book is that picture from?
Thank you.
this is from a Transgo shift kit, you can find them on their website
This is my shopping cart as of now; Rockauto It looks like it won't be cheap. Anything else I need to add to the list?

I couldn't find a set of the molded pistons. It looks like I'll have to buy them separately.
Does anyone have a link to a set of those?

Thank you.
like I said, i would just order a seal/gasket kit if the rest of your clutches are in good shape. Transgel is nice, but vaseline works just fine!
check the condition of your separator plate. the steel checkballs usually damage the plate and sometimes can even get stuck on the plate. you can get a new ac Delco or Transgo one. i can help with drilling the plate out when you get to thay stage. the only other thing i can think of is the servo pin. can you take it somewhere and get someone to weld material on the end? you will need to extend it to tighten up the band clearance. if not you can get a sonnax one and grind it: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4272801
 

BC K1500

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that's good you found the clutches... I would try and get the steels locally or try another website. Use the setup I have listed it is a good pack with a much tighter clearance thab stock (good thing!) I wouldn't bother with the BW kit. With that being said, if your other clutchpacks look good I would not hesitate to reuse them and try and keep costs down.... Make sure to flip that isolator valve, you do not want to keep PWM lockup!
I would definitely would like to keep the cost down but it seem like there is no way to do a good job and spend less than 1k on parts +TC.
I find it weird that RockAuto sells everything but clutch steels?!

Maybe I'm missing the point here but wouldn't it be easiest if I
order This rebuild kit which comes whit steels and just get a few of the BORG-WARNER 27637AM and use that?

I was thinking about this and I think i figured out what you are suggesting is to get plates that are thinner than my OM ones and do 7 clutch plates and 6 steels?. Am I correct?
OM steels;
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If I reuse the other existing clutches it would save me some $ and I would have a better 3-4 pack?


The other clutch packs look good to me but that doesn't mean much.
This is how the other clutches look;
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Should I reuse them?


this is from a Transgo shift kit, you can find them on their website
Thanks.

check the condition of your separator plate. the steel checkballs usually damage the plate and sometimes can even get stuck on the plate. you can get a new ac Delco or Transgo one. i can help with drilling the plate out when you get to thay stage.
The plate is a bit worn by one of the check balls, From the videos I watched it can be repaired by hammering it back, also the check-ball you suggested would go there, wouldn't it?

the only other thing i can think of is the servo pin. can you take it somewhere and get someone to weld material on the end? you will need to extend it to tighten up the band clearance. if not you can get a sonnax one and grind it: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4272801
I know someone who is working as a welder, he could easily weld to it. What would be the benefit of that? And how would I know who much to add to it?


I was looking at this TRANSGO SK4L60E shift kit and wondering if it is worth the investment? Especially since you convinced me to put in all the other upgrades?

I was thinking about using this KOOLER KLEEN TRANS COOLER FLUSH to clean out the cooler lines. Is this a good product?

Also I will need one of those T50 plus bell housing bolts as of course one stripped and I had to drill it out. I can't seem to find it on rockauto site. Would I be able to just get one from GM dealer? And perhaps get the steels for the clutches from GM?

Thank you
 

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tayto

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you need to stick to the 3-4 "recipe" i have posted to get a tighter clutchpack clearance. if you uae the .104" steels you likely won't fit everything. i am not sure what size steels come on that kit, bit if they are not in the .076-.078" range then who knows where you're clearance will end up. there are a bunch of things you need to do to make the 3/4 clutchpack live and using the HE frictions and running a much tighter than stock clearance are 2 important ones.

you don't need the Transgo kit, a bunch of the stuff i have told you is the same or better. the sonnax boost valve is better than the one that comes in the transgo kits. we will still "calibrate" your separator plate which will speed/firm up the shifts which is what part of the shift kit is. don't worry it won't be neck snapping!

once you get the gear train built up you can measure the servo pin travel with your dial indicator and then can determine how much to add. probably getting an 1/8" welded on would be where i would start. I normally buy the sonnax pin and slowly grind it down to get my clearance (about .060-.070"). you DO NOT want to leave this "stock" as the clearance can be over 1/8"....

yes get a can or 2 of kooler flush. make sure to flush BOTH ways and also flush your hardlines out while the transmission is removed.

you will need to find a transmission parts website or local transmission shop, etc to get some of this stuff not all of it can come from rockauto.

these are not cheap units to build! you aren't even doing a full rebuild, just think once you get into replacing hard parts like planetaries, etc. the other one that can add expense is the pump if it is not good internally. i usually replace the stator as it is not in good shape down on the bore.
 
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