4.3L to ?? swap.

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DeCaff2007

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Did you install the seal in the timing cover? Does the timing mark on the damper line up with "0" on the timing indicator?

Yes and yes. That funky looking timing indicator is a big reason why I kept the original timing cover, as opposed to getting a new one. Many aftermarket designs have either an adjustable timing indicator (like, WTF good would that do?) or none at all and I'd have to put my own on. How about NO!
 

DeCaff2007

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Another update until parts come in. I did get the lifters installed. Hydraulic flat tappet here. This likely won't ever be a roller build.

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Then, I dug out my ARP head bolts, the head gaskets, and the refreshed factory heads. It's going to be awhile before my aluminum heads get here.

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Then I gave the head gaskets a light coat of copper sealant, and put the whole mess together.

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DeCaff2007

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Double post because only 5 pics per post. Heads bolts on and torqued to 65 ft-lbs. per the service manual.

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Now, I was going to install the push rods and the rocker arms next. Guess how that ended up. I totally forgot to clean that whole mess before hand. I'm not installing sludged-up parts in my new build. Yes, I have a dunk tank, but have you ever tried to get a rocker arm clean with just a wire brush and a scrub pad? TOO time consuming, plus there's the rocker ball and the nut. Am I being too picky? Well maybe, but I opted to drop all the valve train parts off at the machinist and have him hot tank the whole shebang.

I get there, and the place is closed. Turns out he's a semi-retired, part timer, and only stays at work - if there's work. Well, so much for the parts cleaning. The only other guy around here that does that stuff will take the work, but GOOD LUCK getting a hold of the guy. Then, GOOD LUCK getting your parts back that same year.

I could take the parts to my normal guy... who is also over an hour away.

The only other option was to get new parts :mad::mad:. I thought well, while I'm spending money, why not. Now I have new rocker arm kits and push rods on the way.

Stay tuned. More to come as my parts hoard increases.
 

454cid

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Why couldn't you just dump the parts in a bucket of degreaser and let them soak?

I'm wondering if my local engine shop is still in business.... they've been around forever, and the old guy is probably gone now. He did have a younger partner that was still no spring chicken.
 

Supercharged111

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Why couldn't you just dump the parts in a bucket of degreaser and let them soak?

I'm wondering if my local engine shop is still in business.... they've been around forever, and the old guy is probably gone now. He did have a younger partner that was still no spring chicken.

That's what I would have done, dunk them in a bucket of Berryman's overnight and spray with some CRC parts cleaner in the morning. Good to go.
 

Schurkey

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1. If I'd seen the photos of the block and head gasket, before you bolted stuff together, I'd have suggested punching one more coolant hole in the gasket to match the extra hole in the block between the middle-two cylinders. Allows extra coolant up into the head between the paired exhaust valves--the part of the head that runs the hottest.

2. I've never heard of that brand of head gasket...but...I bet they're Teflon/PTFE coated, and should be installed without sealer. Did those gaskets have instructions that said to use gasket sealer on 'em?

3. IF (big IF) you're going to re-use rocker arms--and that's rarely a good idea due to wear at the valve-tip end--string the rocker balls and the rocker arms together with two feet of mechanic's wire. The rocker balls ideally are kept with the rocker they've worn-into, not scrambled from one rocker to another.

4. Yup, those head bolts needed sealer. I'd be using Loctite 592. Others will suggest something else.

5. I've forgotten--Do you need self-aligning rocker arms with those cylinder heads?
 

tayto

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Yes and yes. That funky looking timing indicator is a big reason why I kept the original timing cover, as opposed to getting a new one. Many aftermarket designs have either an adjustable timing indicator (like, WTF good would that do?) or none at all and I'd have to put my own on. How about NO!
most factory timing marks aren't true TDC. i set them with a degree wheel myself. have seen factory stuff out a few degrees.
 

tayto

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2. I've never heard of that brand of head gasket...but...I bet they're Teflon/PTFE coated, and should be installed without sealer. Did those gaskets have instructions that said to use gasket sealer on 'em?
ya, I've only ever done/been told to use copper coat on shim type headgaskets. MLS should be installed dry/per manufacturers recommendations.
 
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