4.3L HP upgrades

[df2x4]

I was watching videos and saw that on the throttle body. That plate that rotates to let air in, has a metal shield type thing attached to it that restricts air flow. One guy got after it with a light grinder and a Dremel. Anyone tried this yet? I have the tools necessary to do this and considering it. But I’ve been swamped with work and school. If it works I’m going to do it. Thanks.

I replaced the blade on my red truck ('97 C1500 4.3L) with one from CFMTech that was modified as you describe. I hated it. The only thing it did was make my gas pedal feel like an on/off switch. I took it off and reinstalled the factory unmodified blade.

I know some people here like this mod on V8 trucks but in my experience it was a bad idea on a V6.

 

[VIKING_MECHANIC]

I have a 1997 K1500 with the 4.3 that I rebuilt. Here's some stuff that I learned along the way that may help you:

Take off the intake manifold(and upper plenum), and take to a machine shop and have the carbon build-up cleaned out. You ca do this yourself, but may be a PITA. This will allow for better air flow, and maybe, better HP. But that may be trivial.

Get a good set of spark plugs, wires and dist. cap and rotor. None of that parts store specials. I personally use Bosch iridium plugs, Taylor made spark plug wires and Davis Unified Ignition(or DUI) cap and rotor. I've had all these on my C1500 and only had to replace them twice over the last 8 years.

Delete the EGR system. There's kits you can buy that replace the EGR valve with a plate and the intake manifold and exhaust manifold with some bolts. A tune will be required for this though if it's a 95+ But do this at your own discretion. https://route66mods.com/product/egr-delete-cpi/

You can also replace the stock filter with a washable/reusable. Like K&N, Spectre, etc. You can also take off the top of the air intake box to allow the engine to breathe better. Although this *may* affect fuel/air ratio, since there is more air coming in than before. I imagine the ECU compensates by adding fuel, but I haven't confirmed this. I'd say though for me, with the top removed, throttle response is much greater and fuel economy is a bit better.

 

[Nick_R_23]

Sell the V-6 truck, buy one with an engine in it.

There is nothing economical you can do to get more power UNLESS there's something actually wrong with the truck causing an unusual lack of power. So verify fuel pressure, perform all the tune-up services. Make sure the brakes don't drag.

You could invest in cam, compression, aftermarket parts of various sorts...and in the end a 5.7 will leave it for dead. A V-6 is a turd, and there's not a thing you can do to change that without a bale of money.

/thread

Especially if OP’s budget is only $1000. Any mods under a grand aren’t going to get you any worthwhile power out of a 4.3L and are a waste of money. Any mods over $1000 might get you noticeable power but are also a waste of money.

As mentioned above, you’ll be money ahead to sell the truck you have, add your $1000, and come home with a V8 truck. The 4.3L is so not worth the time to hop up it’s not even funny.

 

[HeavyAsAChevy]

Being 16 I don’t get to decide if I sell my car and my parents won’t let me. Even if I did they won’t let me use the money I get from selling my current one guy o out towards a different one. So I’m kinda stuck with this one for now. Until I save to get another one and that won’t be for probably at least a year.

 

[letitsnow]

I have an s10 ZR2 (big, heavy tires and heavy running gear + 4x4) with a 4.3. It has 232,000 miles on the original engine now. It has a BB tune and no cat converter. I have to feather the throttle when taking off, or it will light up both rear tires on the tar. Nothing wrong with the 4.3, you just have to accept what it is and use it to its strengths.

 

[HeavyAsAChevy]

I’ve been looking at cold air intakes and already have a K&N filter. My dad won’t let me touch the exhaust.

 

[Nick_R_23]

If you’re 16, I can assure you that the best advice here is to leave it stock and save your money. I know at 16, I wanted to throw every part in the catalog at my truck, but I’m glad I didn’t and put money away to buy the vehicle I actually wanted instead of throwing good money away to gain nothing. It’s probably not the advice you want to hear, but you’ll be glad you did it.

Also, throw that K&N away and put a paper filter back in. The only thing those “high flow” filters do is let fine dust through and wear out your engine. This is fine on a race engine with short run times and yearly rebuilds. It’s definitely not what you want on a daily driven stock engine.

 

[df2x4]

I’ve been looking at cold air intakes and already have a K&N filter.

I'll save you some time, there aren't any. The only "cold air intake" kits for the '96+ V6 trucks are open box designs that draw significantly warmer air than the factory setup. The only company that makes a cold air intake for these trucks that's actually an improvement over stock is Volant, and they don't make one for the V6 trucks.

Like Nick_R said, get rid of that K&N filter. I ran one for a while on my V6 truck and it fouled my MAF. I thought upgrading to a full K&N FIPK intake kit might solve that issue, it didn't. I spent $300 on that K&N intake only to realize that it significantly raised my intake air temps and still fouled my MAF. I replaced the oiled gauze K&N filter with a dry one from Amsoil and ran that for a while as it cured the MAF problems, but I eventually took it off and put the factory intake back on.

Leave the factory intake alone, and run an ACDelco A1301C paper filter. That's the factory K47 (high capacity) filter that's a little larger than the standard one.