3/4 Ton of fun - ‘95 Sierra

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fancyTBI

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Another good idea. I had watched some videos and have a general idea. Definitely going to take my time and take photos. I appreciate the guidance. The front end is really clean so I’m hoping it doesn’t put up a fight.
 

fancyTBI

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Question about exhaust. I will not have time to get this done before the trip. Truck currently has 3” straight pipe from the Y back. If I get a 2.5” 90° bend to put on the 3” do you think that will get me enough back pressure? I’d hate to burn up the exhaust valves.
 

618 Syndicate

You won't...
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Question about exhaust. I will not have time to get this done before the trip. Truck currently has 3” straight pipe from the Y back. If I get a 2.5” 90° bend to put on the 3” do you think that will get me enough back pressure? I’d hate to burn up the exhaust valves.
Absolutely. You'd basically have to run naked heads to damage the exhaust valves.
Might not be enough for optimum torque, but you won't hurt anything.
 

Erik the Awful

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Put your floor Jack under the control before breaking loose the ball joints from the spindle. You can also thread the castle nut back on a few threads while trying to unseat the taper, just as a secondary safety measure. The spring probably won’t come flying out, but the control arm can hurt you quickly if it pops loose while under spring pressure.
I like to loop a chain through the spring and around the frame for an extra measure of safety.

Question about exhaust. I will not have time to get this done before the trip. Truck currently has 3” straight pipe from the Y back. If I get a 2.5” 90° bend to put on the 3” do you think that will get me enough back pressure? I’d hate to burn up the exhaust valves.
Absolutely. You'd basically have to run naked heads to damage the exhaust valves.
I think the back pressure theory has been disproven :shrug:
Back in the day if you didn't at least have headers bolted to the heads you could suck a valve, but the metallurgy in the valves back then wasn't as good. I've seen a sucked valve, and it looked weird. You can't even find pictures on the internet anymore - none of the old guys posted pictures and none of the young guys think it was a thing. Imagine a valve where the face is elongated away from the stem, like the valvespring tried to pull it right through the head.

You could probably get away with running a modern engine with open heads, but I wouldn't chance it. When it comes to the exhaust, so long as you at least have headers you can run it as open as you want and not worry about it. The more free-flowing the exhaust, the better.
 

OutlawDrifter

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Question about exhaust. I will not have time to get this done before the trip. Truck currently has 3” straight pipe from the Y back. If I get a 2.5” 90° bend to put on the 3” do you think that will get me enough back pressure? I’d hate to burn up the exhaust valves.

You don't need back pressure! Remove that thought from your process. An engine is an air pump. You might, however, need a 3 wire heated O2 sensor if you get a code for the O2.

Just put a 3" turndown on it and call it a day, and if you don't want to listen to a straight pipe for extended periods of time, buy a cheap 3" I/O muffler and put the turndown on that.
 

fancyTBI

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Thank you all for the thoughts on back pressure! I’m going to put a 90° or a 45° on it to get it out the side and help reduce drone. I always read conflicting things on the subject matter.

Anyways, off to a good start! Imagine my surprise when I saw these upper ball joints.
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