1998 yukon rear differential

[98 Yukon]

I have stock 3.73 ratio 10 bolt 8.5 ring gear.needs complete rebuild. Is there a more durable brand to buy.This makes differential number 2.

 

[b454rat]

What is breaking on them? Could get an aftermarket carrier, moly axle shafts. Or go with a 14 semi float....

 

[98 Yukon]

Well first time it was spider gears and lost both axels on the road. This time sheared teeth off the pinion gear I dont want to buy another used one from local salvage

 

[Hobie]

Well first time it was spider gears and lost both axels on the road. This time sheared teeth off the pinion gear I dont want to buy another used one from local salvage

Really havent had a bad experience with any brand of differential rebuild kits. Just make sure you check your lash, and wear pattern when you put the carrier back in

 

[98 Yukon]

This is a job I'm learning right now from you guys thanks for any input. Is this kit a good choice its my daily driver 35 inch tires and it like burn outs

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[nyceguy01]

Dont spend ANY money on the 10 bolt. Get a 14 bolt SF. Easy to find in 3.73 but youd be better off getting the front and rear from a 4.10 truck and swap both.

The front is a bolt in and will take an hour to do.

The rear is a near bolt on and you will be getting a MUCH stronger diff with better ratio for 35's.

I just did this on my Tahoe.

I bought a piece of junk 2500 6 lug truck for $500.. ( Beat body and bad front suspension, horrible oil leaks and wrecked bed. )
Sold the motor and trans, wheels and tires and other bits all in one weekend for $550 ( sold stuff cheap and fast and made the buyers pull own parts ) then the junk yard paid me $60 for what was left and they came and got it.
All said and done Im in my axles $0

I did order all new fluids, axle seals and brake parts for the rear but that was still only $300.

 

[98 Yukon]

What does it consist of to do the rear swap you said near bolt in what will I need to change to be done correctly

 

[nyceguy01]

Usually just a different u-joint in your driveline.
Ive read you can swap the 10 bolt yoke onto the 9.5 but never tried myself.

Really just tear one out and bolt the new one in its place...

 

[Seaurchin1969]

I broke a tooth off the pinion on my 8.5, getting new parts locally was a pain. Got new ring and pinion no problem no name brand. I didnt know what carrier i had till I started taking it apart. Turns out it was an eaton trutrack carrier. I had gotten a differential rebuild kit from the parts store locally. It came with one crush ring for setting pinion preload, and no shims for anything, a pinion seal, and no name bearings.

I got the carrier and pinion out, drove out the old pinion races, and reinstalled the new pinion with parts from that kit. I twisted off two ring gear bolts before i remembered they are lefthand threaded. I was trying to think where i could get new ones while i was reassembling the differential carrier, I had to use a die grinder w/cutoff wheel to get the carrier bearings off. The new bearings in the kit were too small, because i didnt know locking diff carriers take bigger bearings. Plus I had managed to scrounge pinion and carrier shim kits. So make sure you know what you have before ordering parts at the parts store.

Anyway long story short, it was Monday, Labor day weekend, I had watched a few youtube videos, one from a locking diff dealer, so i checked out their site. Thats where i found out about the larger bearings. So on their site i figured out what diff rebuild kit i needed, It was a yukon gear kit, I would have ordered it from them too but they were closed, and not open till Tuesday, and there was no expedited shipping available. So I looked it up on Amazon, found it, and with prime shipping could have it by Wednesday so I ordered it from them. The kit was also $70 cheaper from Amazon and free shipping. I had it in my hand by (surprisingly) noon. Best of all though the kit came with all new ring gear bolts(one problem eliminated) and locktite for them, pinion and carrier shim kits, two crush rings, so i could mess that up once, and good timken bearings and races, a seal, gear marking paint, and diff cover gasket. I took it for a test drive Wednesday night. Jobs done now, was my first ring n pinion set up, it was tedious getting the lash rite, i just reused the shims that came off the old pinion so mostly i was just shimming the carrier back n forth to get preload and lash rite. Still need to change the break in oil, but I'm happy. Ill buy yukon gear products again.

If I had an open diff, like it sound like you have the diff kit i got from the auto parts store would have worked.

 

[RI Chevy guy]

Dont spend ANY money on the 10 bolt. Get a 14 bolt SF. Easy to find in 3.73 but youd be better off getting the front and rear from a 4.10 truck and swap both.

The front is a bolt in and will take an hour to do.

The rear is a near bolt on and you will be getting a MUCH stronger diff with better ratio for 35's.

I just did this on my Tahoe.

I bought a piece of junk 2500 6 lug truck for $500.. ( Beat body and bad front suspension, horrible oil leaks and wrecked bed. )
Sold the motor and trans, wheels and tires and other bits all in one weekend for $550 ( sold stuff cheap and fast and made the buyers pull own parts ) then the junk yard paid me $60 for what was left and they came and got it.
All said and done Im in my axles $0

I did order all new fluids, axle seals and brake parts for the rear but that was still only $300.

Have to agree with nyceguy01, if you're doing burnouts with 35's you will continue to twist up the 10 bolts. While enough good things can't be said about the tru-trac, I'd find a solid 14 and put a bearing/seal kit in that- should hold up to what you're doing with it