1997 K3500 4X4 ECLB Dually Front Brake Rotors And Pad Recommendations

[wirlybird]

Hi all,
I need to replace the front pads on my '97 K3500 4X4 dually. I want to replace the rotors also. Dealer said the rotors are getting there.
I am looking for recommendations for decent rotors and pads that won't break the bank.

I just towed a 2004 Tahoe 4X4 on my 18 foot flatbed and stopping was not an issue so I don't think I need anything fancy but just decent.

Thanks for any suggestions on what brand(s) to look at.

I can supply any additional info I may have forgotten.

 

[wirlybird]

The front brakes look like quite an undertaking. Nothing taht hard but a lot of work to change rotors.
Does anyone make a hub/rotor and stud assembly ready to go?
Considering the age of the truck it might be wise to replace the hubs also.

 

[Frank Enstein]

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwr-z36-459 and

1997 CHEVROLET K3500 StopTech 126.66004SR StopTech Slotted Brake Rotors | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - StopTech Slotted Brake Rotors with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Brake Rotors at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

StopTech 126.66004SL StopTech Slotted Brake Rotors | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - StopTech Slotted Brake Rotors with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Brake Rotors at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

 

[Frank Enstein]

Changing the rotors is an all day job. Make sure to have a large box of foul language on hand.

First timer? Two boxes.

The pads I recommended I have on my 92 K3500 "Frank" (my avatar).
I like them. Soft initial grab (nice when empty or in rain/snow conditions) but grab harder as they get hotter or you push harder. Very predictable.

They do produce more brake dust than I would like but I'll put up with that to get their performance.

When I change the rotors those are the ones I'm using.
I will change them when I replace the front bearing hubs because it is no extra labor.

The slots help with pad outgassing (admittedly not a big problem with today's pads) and can help when the rotors are wet (the reason I'm getting these).

If your rotors are smooth and flat there isn't a good reason to change them other than the slots in the new ones.

Per Hawk Brake's recommendation you hand sand the rotors with 120 grit sand paper to remove the old pad material and wash with soap and water after. With new rotors sand the pads the same way. The outgassing from the new rotors can interfere with the bedding in of the new pads.

Then "Bed In" the new pads per the manufacturer's procedure.

Happy Motoring!

 

[wirlybird]

Changing the rotors is an all day job. Make sure to have a large box of foul language on hand.

First timer? Two boxes.

The pads I recommended I have on my 92 K3500 "Frank" (my avatar).
I like them. Soft initial grab (nice when empty or in rain/snow conditions) but grab harder as they get hotter or you push harder. Very predictable.

They do produce more brake dust than I would like but I'll put up with that to get their performance.

When I change the rotors those are the ones I'm using.
I will change them when I replace the front bearing hubs because it is no extra labor.

The slots help with pad outgassing (admittedly not a big problem with today's pads) and can help when the rotors are wet (the reason I'm getting these).

If your rotors are smooth and flat there isn't a good reason to change them other than the slots in the new ones.

Per Hawk Brake's recommendation you hand sand the rotors with 120 grit sand paper to remove the old pad material and wash with soap and water after. With new rotors sand the pads the same way. The outgassing from the new rotors can interfere with the bedding in of the new pads.

Then "Bed In" the new pads per the manufacturer's procedure.

Happy Motoring!

Thanks for the info.
I am going to order pads, these are the ones you like? Power Stop Z36-459 - Power Stop Z36 Truck and Tow Carbon Fiber-Ceramic Brake Pads

I think I will change pads and inspect everything else. I'll try to find the specs for a "safe" rotor and mic them to see how they are.
Long term may be to get hubs, rotors and studs and assemble a new set and have ready.

 

[Frank Enstein]

Those are the ones!

 

[wirlybird]

Great, ordered from Amazon for $50. Good deal.

 

[Schurkey]

I think I will change pads and inspect everything else. I'll try to find the specs for a "safe" rotor and mic them to see how they are.

Discard diameter is cast into the rotor. Also published in the service manual.

Long term may be to get hubs, rotors and studs and assemble a new set and have ready.

With that sort of expense, I'd be looking in the Treasure Yard; either for "good used" parts, or for newer vehicle(s) to use as donor(s) for a brake upgrade.