1990 454ss manual reverse valve body.

[yesyesyesges]

So I have a 1990 454ss with the th400 and I’m looking to do a reverse pattern manual valve body.
Now this post isn’t for if I should or shouldn’t do it, if it’s worth it or not, or if there’s a better option.
I simply have a few questions.
1 I’m doing this on a street setup so do I want engine breaking??
2 will this throw codes in the computer?
3 will I need a new shifter/shifter location or can I stay with the oem column shifter?.

 

[Erik the Awful]

I have a 1990 454ss with the th400 and I’m looking to do a reverse pattern manual valve body.

Why? What's your purpose for the truck?

3 will I need a new shifter/shifter location or can I stay with the oem column shifter?.

Isn't the whole purpose of a reverse valve body so you can slap shift a floor-mounted ratchet shifter?

It's a good way to make a street truck a real PITA to drive.

 

[someotherguy]

Why? What's your purpose for the truck?


Isn't the whole purpose of a reverse valve body so you can slap shift a floor-mounted ratchet shifter?

It's a good way to make a street truck a real PITA to drive.

He already told us he isn't interested in discussion about why or whether it's a good idea.

Richard

 

[Erik the Awful]

Question #3 makes "why" an inherent part of the discussion, whether or not he wants it.

 

[PolarBear]

So I have a 1990 454ss with the th400 and I’m looking to do a reverse pattern manual valve body.
Now this post isn’t for if I should or shouldn’t do it, if it’s worth it or not, or if there’s a better option.
I simply have a few questions.
1 I’m doing this on a street setup so do I want engine breaking??
2 will this throw codes in the computer?
3 will I need a new shifter/shifter location or can I stay with the oem column shifter?.

1.) That's up to you, if you want engine braking or not.
2.) It won't throw any codes, just ensure you use a lock-up stall converter.
3.) You absolutely WILL want an aftermarket shifter with positive shift gates, over an oem column shifter. Just remember, with a manual valvebody, that trans is going to shift into whatever gear to command it to shift into. (i.e commanding 1st gear at 70mph.) This is why positive shift gates are imperative.

With the above being said, unless you're making insane power, i'd stick with a forward manual valvebody, or even a Transgo shift kit that converts the oem valvebody to manual shift only, with no over-run.

Here is my 1990 C1500, driving with a Hughes HP2211 Forward manual valvebody, about 6 years ago.

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[yesyesyesges]

1.) That's up to you, if you want engine braking or not.
2.) It won't throw any codes, just ensure you use a lock-up stall converter.
3.) You absolutely WILL want an aftermarket shifter with positive shift gates, over an oem column shifter. Just remember, with a manual valvebody, that trans is going to shift into whatever gear to command it to shift into. (i.e commanding 1st gear at 70mph.) This is why positive shift gates are imperative.

With the above being said, unless you're making insane power, i'd stick with a forward manual valvebody, or even a Transgo shift kit that converts the oem valvebody to manual shift only, with no over-run.

Here is my 1990 C1500, driving with a Hughes HP2211 Forward manual valvebody, about 6 years ago.

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Why do I need the lockup?, I was going to build the engine and with the cam setup I was thinking I would need a 3200 stall

 

[NickTransmissions]

Why do I need the lockup?, I was going to build the engine and with the cam setup I was thinking I would need a 3200 stall

TH400s never came with a converter equipped with a clutch but several transmission performance parts and TC manufacturers sell conversion kits to have "lock up" in one of those transmissions. Whether or not it would be worth it for you depends on your overall powetrain/drivetrain set up, application, goals, etc. Coan Racing's kit looks interesting. I'm not too familiar with them, perhaps @PolarBear can explain the benefit's he's seen with his, if he's running one.

Regardless, you're overhauling the trans if you want to run a clutch in your converter...

Forward vs reverse pattern man vb is also user preference, somewhat influenced by application.

Whatever you decide to do, ensure heat is properly dealt with (giant trans cooler, large capacity pan).

 

[b454rat]

Coming from experience a manual valve body street driven vehicle gets old. Really fast. Just my $.01….

 

[PolarBear]

Why do I need the lockup?, I was going to build the engine and with the cam setup I was thinking I would need a 3200 stall

I mention lockup, because you're going to go with a cam and a 3200 stall. If it gets driven on the highway, regardless of how large of a trans cooler you'll have, that stall just becomes a massive heat generator at 70mph. Lockup tightens it up and allows a lower input versus output RPM.

TH400s never came with a converter equipped with a clutch but several transmission performance parts and TC manufacturers sell conversion kits to have "lock up" in one of those transmissions. Whether or not it would be worth it for you depends on your overall powetrain/drivetrain set up, application, goals, etc. Coan Racing's kit looks interesting. I'm not too familiar with them, perhaps @PolarBear can explain the benefit's he's seen with his, if he's running one.

Regardless, you're overhauling the trans if you want to run a clutch in your converter...

Forward vs reverse pattern man vb is also user preference, somewhat influenced by application.

Whatever you decide to do, ensure heat is properly dealt with (giant trans cooler, large capacity pan).

I suggest them, as I like to do drag and drive events, where an unlocked converter especially a 3,000+ rpm stall, becomes a massive heat generator. Regardless of the size of the cooler.

70mph @ 3800-4000 rpm with a loose converter is going to equate to 200-210* trans temps in July down the highway, even with a 40K equivalent cooler, or a more high-tech model with a thermostatic fan.

 

[NickTransmissions]

I mention lockup, because you're going to go with a cam and a 3200 stall. If it gets driven on the highway, regardless of how large of a trans cooler you'll have, that stall just becomes a massive heat generator at 70mph. Lockup tightens it up and allows a lower input versus output RPM.



I suggest them, as I like to do drag and drive events, where an unlocked converter especially a 3,000+ rpm stall, becomes a massive heat generator. Regardless of the size of the cooler.

70mph @ 3800-4000 rpm with a loose converter is going to equate to 200-210* trans temps in July down the highway, even with a 40K equivalent cooler, or a more high-tech model with a thermostatic fan.

I don't suggest anyone put anything more than a 3400-3500 stall in a mostly street-driven application...Full race is fine but not street, primarily due to the heat...~80-90% of the heat inside a trans comes from the converter, the remainder from friction elements application/release but most of it is sourced at the TC.

That said, the lock up can save you when it comes to mitigating heat in a TH400 when stall speeds climb beyond 3500 and the vehicle is a heavy car or truck, driven in the summer. It will be up to the OP to figure out what he wants to do heat-management wise but deep B&M pan, huge cooler w/fans would be at the top of my list. The TCC kit will help as well but not sure if he wants to go through the trans to do what has to be done for installation...