1967 Dodge D100

[618 Syndicate]

I'd like to get about 500 rwhp. I think that will be more than a handful in this old truck.

Cam and valve springs? Rule of thumb is about 20 hp per lb of boost, but obviously other factors affect that.

 

[0xDEADBEEF]

Cam and valve springs? Rule of thumb is about 20 hp per lb of boost, but obviously other factors affect that.

I have a Summit 8720 cam and springs combo on hand. I think it's 218/221 or around there and .600 lift. I bought it for a 4.8 and it's not a "turbo cam", but it will still work.

I just have to resist the urge to crank up the boost. Easier said than done.

 

[0xDEADBEEF]

I now have 2 brakes and a new clacking noise when moving. I think I broke some hardware inside the drum by giving it all the leg power, LOL.

 

[0xDEADBEEF]

Also, I've come to appreciate the ghost bed floor. I've done a few jobs now that are a ton easier without a bed floor in the way forcing you to slide underneath on your back. I'm definitely not putting a floor in before I replace the pinion seal.

 

[618 Syndicate]

Are you going with a wood floor? If so, you can probably figure out a way to make it removable, but look stock. I have a false floor sitting on top of the hacked up original floor in the dually, it can be removed if needed.

 

[0xDEADBEEF]

Are you going with a wood floor? If so, you can probably figure out a way to make it removable, but look stock. I have a false floor sitting on top of the hacked up original floor in the dually, it can be removed if needed.

I'm not sure yet. I'm probably going to 4 link the rear and I'll just see what I have left to work with after that.

 

[Erik the Awful]

My question now is assuming the bottom end looks as good as the top end, do I open it up to put ring gap in it? I'm leaning against it. It's more for show than for go, and opening it up has its own risks. I will give the rods the wiggle test and check crank end play before making a decision.

The problem with pulling rod caps is that they don't go back on the exact same dimension, and I think technically you shouldn't re-use the rod bolts.

If the ring gap isn't enough, your motor is trashed. If I already had it that close, I wouldn't hesitate. Sure, the caps won't go on in exactly the same fitment, but who says it was exact from the factory? Get some new rod bolts and do it.

 

[0xDEADBEEF]

If the ring gap isn't enough, your motor is trashed. If I already had it that close, I wouldn't hesitate. Sure, the caps won't go on in exactly the same fitment, but who says it was exact from the factory? Get some new rod bolts and do it.

There's definitely a valid argument to do it.

Here's the Sloppy Mechanics recipe:

Recipie for 500-600whp Junkyard Turbo LS build

quick and dirty it goes like this

acquire junkyard LS engine, leave it totally stock other than installing Pac1218 valvesprings and boost it, or install a turbo cam under .600 lift (limit of the pac1218s)

install 80lb siemens deka injectors in stock intake, add 044 external or walbro400 internal fuel pump to vehicle (proven to support over 600whp so far by themselves)

3/8ths fuel line is fine, install any chinese 70-80mm turbo ($220-550, and 50-60mm wastegate $60-120)

use megasquirt or stock pcm and tune it or have someone tune it on pumpgas and methanol... wham 500-600whp

 

[0xDEADBEEF]

I pulled off the stuck brake drum. The wheel cylinder was leaking slightly, but the brake hose was the culprit. It really wasn't that bad inside, and I didn't replace shoes or anything.

So new cylinder and brake hose and I have at least 1 normally functioning brake. I will do the other side tomorrow.

 

[someotherguy]

I pulled off the stuck brake drum. The wheel cylinder was leaking slightly, but the brake hose was the culprit. It really wasn't that bad inside, and I didn't replace shoes or anything.

So new cylinder and brake hose and I have at least 1 normally functioning brake. I will do the other side tomorrow.

Yeah those things do go best replaced in pairs, but I'm sure you already knew that.

Richard