1956 case 311 tractor.

[thegawd]

Thanks man. Honestly I've never seen one before it showed up at my house. LOL apparently there were 8465 built so I hope I can find some of the missing parts and make it at least complete. In the meantime I'll do what I can to make it run.

 

[Erin]

hey look some fenders! LOL

You never know, it could always be fixed if it was ever needed.

I do a lot of firewood so this would make a huge difference pulling wood home.

Paw in law said his brother in law screwed the engine up. We wouldn’t need anything that big anyways.

 

[RichLo]

Nice, have fun with it!

I have a 1937 Allis Chalmers B with a 6-ft wide belly mower that has been my go-to mower for almost 10 years.

I also have a 1939 John Deere A with a large bucket that has been my general work tractor for almost 9 years.

The old ones were built right when they didnt worry about cost savings with weight or over-engineered mechanical parts!

 

[thegawd]

Right on Rich! thanks man! I truly am excited, I got all the manuals and have been reading them like crazy. I really am surprised just how complicated or rather sophisticated and wonderful engineered this old tractor is. its user friendly and it should be very easy to get running again. My landlord, who also runs antique tractors to farm his 400 acres is very eager to help me out in the quest to find some rare parts. he knows some people and said we'll get it back to its former glory.

he has old john deers that even look old but underneath it all have been extensively professionally rebuilt and well maintained.

He has offered me up a few implements that he wont ever use... we just got to dig them out. LMAO. hes got a bit of a junkyard going on over there....

 

[thegawd]

Well I splurged and spent $80 on some parts.

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a flexible radiator line to use for the air intake. I cant find one anywhere. I tried to bang one out of a thin steel pipe but it looked like shìt and was a PITA.

I bought an exhaust pipe with a 2 bolt flange. I modified a 2 bolt flange so I could slide it over the manifold and "fix" the broken exhaust manifold ear. I forgot to buy the damn exhaust gasket though.

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I also bought a 12V ignition coil with the built in ballast resistor. it looks like the original 6V ignition coil was still on it as it will work with 12V conversion it just wont last as long.

I almost bought the electronic ignition conversion kit to ditch the points n condensor but all of that stuff looked brand new. probably swapped in with the new looking spark plugs. plus that electronic igniter was seriously $120 so I don't need it yet.

pretty sure with those new parts that I can safely finally attempt to start it. I was told that it has run within the last couple years but it lost spark and the ballast resistor was suspect. my brother in law told me he got a good zap off of the coil though so I dont know. hes one of those crazy types who will taste leaking fluids to ID and take a zap to test for spark. LOL

Oh I fabricated up a lever for the 3Pt hitch that clamps itself on to the adjustable steel rod linkage. it's only made from electrical conduit but it will be a temporary fix. I can not find one of these online. I have yet to take a drive to any tractor graveyards and the closest couple are absolutely not online, hell they dont even have a business listing for a phone number. LOL

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[thegawd]

Iv been working away a this whenever I have a chance.

I started building the exhaust and I at least have it blowing on the ground now and not on the side of the motor. it's no where near done but its good enough to start it.

I have the rubber intake hose installed, Fit Like A Glove! I measured that 3 times in the pouring rain so it had better fit. lol.

I bought some carb cleaner and I am wanting to clean the carb BUT I am weary of taking it off and destroying the gaskets without having replacement. I may just spray it in the intake/fuel line instead to see what comes out the drain and at least clean out that much.

I found that it had a copper fuel line. looks like heavy duty stuff but its cooper. I actually have some stainless steel brake line that I am going to replace it with. well I actually dont know what material it is as I can bend it fairly easy. came from my FIL, hes a hoarder, sometimes good and mostly not. lol.

since I'm going through with all that I may as well remove the tank and look it over really well and possibly paint it while it's out. I dont see any concerns whatsoever though I just want to make sure its clean inside.

once I'm confident the fuel system is clean and put back together is when I'll finally attempt to start it.

hell if I get a good day that could happen really fast.

now heres a question. I see a brass valve on the fuel line. can I use it with the stainless line or should I get a stainless valve? I think I have one somewhere that may fit but I cant find it.

later.

 

[thegawd]

well I'm about 100% sure that that cooper fuel line is not original due to the compression adapter fittings and compression fittings on the valve. so nevermind I'm not using that so now I do need to find another valve. I guess it has to be one that would accept the same fitting as what is used on a brake line. well I have not removed the fuel line yet, the adapter fightings look identical to brake fittings. not sure if its double flared inside but I would assume that's how it seals.

heres another question, how close is too close for a fuel line to be next to an exhaust pipe?

Theres about an inch clearance and since this exhaust blew down instead of up, I can tell this has been this way for a long time when the original pipe was still connected. actually I'm not 100% on how the original exhaust was set up. it came out and down toward the back on an angle so it may have never been close to the fuel line but its hard to actually tell in pics or the illustrated manuals that I have. BUT you can also see the black soot from the exhaust blowing right on it! LMAO

I understand that exhaust heat is sometimes used to help vaporize the fuel.... just like the ehaust/intake manifold that's on it.

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[thegawd]

heres the best pic I could find for the original exhaust. it's an illustration and this example is talking about splitting the tractor. nothing to do with exhaust. that info seems to be simple shìt and not important. I also cant really find any details on the fuel line or routing in the manuals.

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MAN in this illustration the exhaust pipe looks too damn close to the fuel tank! lol

well I went straight down and am using a 90° elbow. and I may just bolt the muffler to the 90, at least, temporarily until I can find the right size of straight pipe.

that's irrelevant to starting the tractor though.

 

[RichLo]

That exhaust should be ok for what your going to be doing with it. Once in a while on hot days mowing long grass my Allis vapor locks but I just let it sit a couple minutes and it fires right back up and keeps going. If your really concerned about it you can slip a fiberglass sleeve over the fuel line to insulate it from the exhaust.

And the fuel valve is usually closer to the tank rather than closer to the carb. That setup is definitely not factory.

Looks like your having fun though! Have you started it at all yet?

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

heres the best pic I could find for the original exhaust

Yeah, down swept exhaust tractors were used in orchards where tree branches wouldn't hit them. Vertical pipes were primarily used for row or field crops. The issue with down swept exhaust is you don't wanna stand and or work behind them, ha ha.

it's an illustration and this example is talking about splitting the tractor.

I've split my share of tractors (mostly to change the clutches in them) using a floor jack and an A-frame with a pneumatic chain hoist. Pretty easy as long as you keep all of your fasteners segregated. When you get up over 100HP ones, they usually have a regular frame and don't rely on the engine block to transmission for support.