14 Bolt Full Float Drum Brakes

[ZachT]

So a little step by step of how I did this:
First took the tire off and removed the axle (I don't think it has ever been taken out at least not in the past 4 years that I've owned it)
2. You have to remove the retaining c-clip so you can take the key stock out and the retaining nut

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3. Take the key stock out

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3. Remove the retaining nut I didn't have a spanner wrench so I just put a small flat screwdriver in on of the notches for the spanner and spun it out. Nut isn't in there very tightly so it's relatively easy

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You're definitely going to want a drain pan underneath once you loosen the axle because you'll leak diff. fluid
4. Next you'll want to use a small flat head screwdriver to push the parking brake lever back and then use a spoon tool or another flat head to adjust the adjuster. You will be able to tell if you're going the right direction because there shouldn't be a clicking sound when you turn the piece. This will make removing the drum significantly easier

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These are the holes to access the adjuster. The one you'll use to turn it is towards the rear of the truck

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Here is the spoon tool

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How I had my tools set up to make adjustments

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The setup once the drum is off. You'll want to get a picture of this or only do one side at a time so you know exactly how it's supposed to be unless you're an expert at this off course
5. Using a brake spring tool remove the two springs that hold the shoes on to the backing plate. Push the tool in to compress the spring and twist the rod 90° and release the spring. Be careful because it will fly.

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What the tool looks like

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Spring that is located on front shoe

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Spring located on rear shoe


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[ZachT]

6. Next step is going to be removal of the return springs located at the top of the assembly so that the actuator link may be removed

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6. Then remove the lever return spring and the actuator link. There is a c-clip that will also be removed that connects the parking brake lever to the rear shoe. Ones these are all removed the shoes can come off and if you're rebuilding entirely like I am there is no need to further disassemble than that.

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This is the lever return spring

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The clip that needs removed
7. The next step is going to be to clamp off your brake line so that the wheel cylinder can removed. You'll want to be extra careful with the brake line fitting they're very brittle. I was lucky that I didn't damage these without the proper tools. Number one thing to take away is that the right tools for this job make it 100 times easier hands down. It took me 6-8 hours to do the passenger side without any proper tools or knowing much about it, but with a little guidance and the right tools the drivers side only took me 3 hours.

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[ZachT]

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When I clamp brake lines I try to seal it off in parallel with the lines and not perpendicular to it.
8. There is two bolts that hold the wheel cylinders to backing plate that'll need removed.

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There's the old wheel cylinder that is being replaced.
9. I forgot to mention that you will need the Parking Brake Strut that is off the old setup, as it doesn't come in the new kit that I got. The strut spring will be replaced though

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10. While everything is off I cleaned off the backing plate, didn't think that it was a part that really needed replaced.

 

[ZachT]

Assembly is essentially the reverse. There are a couple things that make it easier to install. One trick to is to assemble actuator link assembly first then put it together. Make sure you put the parking brake strut on before you install the springs. It helps significantly if you use the hold springs to keep everything in place. Thus the name hold springs. I packed the bearings with grease.


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[ZachT]

Some torque specs:
Bolts that hold wheel cylinder on: 15 ft-lb
Brake line piece: 13 ft-lb
Axle Flange Bolt: 115 ft-lb
Floating Retaining Nut: tighten to 50 ft-lb and rotate the hub then loosen up 1/4 turn and tighten to 35 ft-lb and align for key stock


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[ZachT]

If any one has some suggestion or advice let me know please


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[THEFERMANATOR]

So, on the full floaters, the drum and hub are one piece?

I absolutely hate working on drum brakes. The whole assembly looks too complicated for what it has to do, as far as I'm concerned. Could never figure out why they just didn't go to disks at the rear and be done with it. Even if they had to put a handbrake mechanism in there somehow.

Depends, theres 2 different styles that GM used for 14 bolt ff rear drums. Most of the duallys seem to all have the drum on the insude while BURBS have it on the outside.

 

[2TooManyTrucks]

Drum brakes are actually just as if not better mechanically for stopping a large vehicle. Only recently did they move to large enough calipers and pads to equal the stopping power of drum brakes - I'm guessing cost was a factor in the past as few vehicles other than the 60's cadillacs required large enough rotors to stop a K2500 let alone with a trailer behind it.. When properly serviced, drum brakes are just fine.


A torch and some extra brake fluid are the best thing I've found for loosening those pesky brake lines. Get it hot and squirt a little brake fluid on it. Better penetrating fluid than PB Blaster!

I don't pinch off the brake hose either unless it's brand new. These trucks are getting old enough that those hoses are about shot anyway.

The lines don't leak that much and a rubber hose with a bolt in it and a couple clamps will stop too much fluid loss without compromising the hose.

A proper line wrench is also nice but not necessary.

Due to the lift blocks and other suspension pieces in the way, I often find it easier to pull the backing plate off the truck and then take the wheel cylinder off of that using the bench vice in the A/C'd garage. A torch works wonders here too.

The drum and hub are pressed together as one piece. If you press out the lugs, they come apart pretty easily. Generally though just to repair brakes, you take them off as one piece and leave them as one piece.

If you are doing bearings, the bearings all come out the inside of the hub/drum.

If you are going to buy the parts kits, the e-brake lever and auto adjuster are a second kit from the springs. Make sure you get the right one for your axle (based on brake shoe width).

Also, the shorter spring goes on the e-brake side. The longer spring goes on the leading brake shoe.

Speaking of brake shoes, the shorter (leading) shoe goes toward the front, the longer in the rear.

If your brakes are auto adjusting and you can't figure out why, test that parking brake cable! Make sure it slides smoothly and with little effort in the casing that leads to and from the backing plate.

 

[Ironhead]

Great write up and pictures ZachT. Very helpful for all of us who may face this job down the road.

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

Not all 14 bolt FF drums and hubs are held together by the studs. Theres 2 different style hubs used.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/14b_bible/