14 bolt FF service - brakes and lube job - a couple questions

[Reluctanse]

EDIT: Better throw this in there, truck is a 2000 3500 CCLB with the 7.4, SRW, 4.10 gears.

For peace of mind I want to do the rear brakes on my truck, and probably put in some fresh gear lube while I'm at it.

I'm working on a parts list, but I've never torn apart a full floating rear end before. Watching a couple youtubes, it looks like there's a tool I want to remove the axle nuts? Can anyone point me in a good direction on that?

Also, will I need any seals while I'm here? Do I need a gasket for the hubs, or can I use some good old RTV black?

Gonna do new shoes, get the drums turned hopefully, new wheel cylinders and hardware kit, with cleanup.

Is there anything else I should add to the list? Anything I need to know? No stranger to drums, just not the full floating flavor. Thanks everyone.

 

[Supercharged111]

Pop a wheel off and see if you have slip on drums, unless you already know. If you don't, there's a wheel seal that goes on the inside of the drum. I don't recall if I sealed my axles, reused an existing gasket, etc but I don't think I bought anything for that. I used a hammer and screwdriver to get those nuts off, easy peasy. The bearing either gets zero preload or the next notch down, no endplay.

 

[454cid]

If you've got lots of miles you may want new hub bearings...not sure how to check those, really. I'd put new seals in the hubs, at least. I'd also use a new gasket for the axles, but guys use RTV... I hate the stuff in general and won't use it on anything unless necessary.

Unless your existing cylinders are really bad, I'd try a rebuild kit. Most new cylinders come from China. I do have one replacement that's been fine as far as I know. Also, I think the larger cylinders that I have yet to install are Chinese.

Last time I did my gear lube, I bought a GM cover kit... includes a new cover, bolts, and gasket. I wired wheeled the mating surface on the axle to clean it up before installing the new parts. I used 80w90 dino oil, but your truck would have come with 75w90 synthetic if it matters to you.

I need to do my rear brakes. I've been in there before, but never a full rebuild on them.

Might be a good time to replace the flex hose if it hasn't been done before.

 

[packer0440]

If it is high miles, it’s probably worth checking the bearings and putting a new wheel seal in regardless of having slide on drums or not. If you don’t have slide ons, this will be necessary anyway.

Remove the axle shaft, keyway, retaining ring, and axle nut and remove the hub/drum. After getting the hubs off, the easiest way to get the seal out is to stand the hub up with the seal toward the ground and use a large punch to hit the inside bearing from the top, which will knock the seal out. You shouldn’t have to hit very hard. If the rollers on the bearing aren’t pitted (and the race looks OK) you can just reuse the bearings, they’re pretty durable. If they are really bad you would feel play in the hub with the wheel off the ground.

If you need to replace the outside bearing, I think there is a snap ring holding it in but I’ve never taken a close look at it; YouTube will be your friend.

Be very careful not to disturb the seal when reinstalling the hub as it’s easier than you think to mess it up and cause a leak (this is especially true if you have drums that go on behind the hub, not an easy process).

The official process for tightening the nut is to torque to 50 ft/lbs to seat the bearings, then back off 1/4 turn then tighten back to 13 ft/lbs or so. Basically, tighten until it’s very hard to turn the nut to seat the hub, then back off, then tighten using the socket as much as you can by hand and you should be fine. The axle nut socket can be had at any auto parts store

 

[Supercharged111]

If it is high miles, it’s probably worth checking the bearings and putting a new wheel seal in regardless of having slide on drums or not. If you don’t have slide ons, this will be necessary anyway.

Remove the axle shaft, keyway, retaining ring, and axle nut and remove the hub/drum. After getting the hubs off, the easiest way to get the seal out is to stand the hub up with the seal toward the ground and use a large punch to hit the inside bearing from the top, which will knock the seal out. You shouldn’t have to hit very hard. If the rollers on the bearing aren’t pitted (and the race looks OK) you can just reuse the bearings, they’re pretty durable. If they are really bad you would feel play in the hub with the wheel off the ground.

If you need to replace the outside bearing, I think there is a snap ring holding it in but I’ve never taken a close look at it; YouTube will be your friend.

Be very careful not to disturb the seal when reinstalling the hub as it’s easier than you think to mess it up and cause a leak (this is especially true if you have drums that go on behind the hub, not an easy process).

The official process for tightening the nut is to torque to 50 ft/lbs to seat the bearings, then back off 1/4 turn then tighten back to 13 ft/lbs or so. Basically, tighten until it’s very hard to turn the nut to seat the hub, then back off, then tighten using the socket as much as you can by hand and you should be fine. The axle nut socket can be had at any auto parts store

That last bit sounds more akin to a 2wd front bearing. For the rears, run them down to zero endplay and if the retainer nut is bang on with the cotter pin, pin it there. In the far more likely event you're in between, tighten the nut down to the next available opportunity to set the cotter pin in place. I can't fathom how you'd torque that retainer nut to any sort of spec. The method I spec'd above got me back to where the nuts were removed from.

 

[packer0440]

That last bit sounds more akin to a 2wd front bearing. For the rears, run them down to zero endplay and if the retainer nut is bang on with the cotter pin, pin it there. In the far more likely event you're in between, tighten the nut down to the next available opportunity to set the cotter pin in place. I can't fathom how you'd torque that retainer nut to any sort of spec. The method I spec'd above got me back to where the nuts were removed from.

I mean, they are set up very similarly, 2 bearings on a spindle. I was just stating what the shop manual says (and I agree that it’s pretty hard to actually torque it). In general, you want take away the play, but not much tighter than that. Tightening down at the start just helps ensure everything is fitting together properly.

 

[454cid]

That last bit sounds more akin to a 2wd front bearing. For the rears, run them down to zero endplay and if the retainer nut is bang on with the cotter pin, pin it there. In the far more likely event you're in between, tighten the nut down to the next available opportunity to set the cotter pin in place. I can't fathom how you'd torque that retainer nut to any sort of spec. The method I spec'd above got me back to where the nuts were removed from.

A torque wrench with the proper socket that engages the cut-outs in that weirdo nut.

 

[Reluctanse]

Thanks everyone good replies, especially on rebuilding wheel cylinders. The kits are practically free.

Sounds like I need to figure out if I have slide on drums or not before ordering.

 

[454cid]

Thanks everyone good replies, especially on rebuilding wheel cylinders. The kits are practically free.

Sounds like I need to figure out if I have soup on drums or not before ordering.

Well think back... did you spill your soup or not???

 

[454cid]

Word of caution/advice: Even if you have slip on drums, but they haven't been off for a long time, they will be difficult to remove. I coat the contact surfaces between the hub and drum with anti-seize, so they don't stick.