My Flat Tappet Cam Wiped Out So I Decided To Go Roller

I decided to go out to the shop and work on the "Big 3" and "4 High" (kinda) positive side. Got all the parts in, even found a roll of "Wire Harness" tape on Amazon.

From top to bottom, 2GA starter wire, 4GA to fuse and relay boxes just below the cables, and 4GA going through a 100A fuse holder (instead of a fusible link) to the distribution block on the fire wall. Since the battery cable clamp only has 2 big holes, I got a splitter to go from 4GA to (2ea) 8GA so, every wire has its own terminal.



I'll finish off the negative side once the accessory brackets on the front of the engine are installed, hopefully we'll get that done tomorrow.

PlayingWithTBI said:

From top to bottom, 2GA starter wire, 4GA to fuse and relay boxes just below the cables, and 4GA going through a 100A fuse holder (instead of a fusible link) to the distribution block on the fire wall.

Click to expand...

You'd be far better-off with the fusible link.

A fusible link will accept a short-term overload without popping. Fuses generally don't. Even slow-blow fuses pop a hundred times faster than a fusible link--which is why they use fusible links on stuff that really should keep working, even if there's a temporary, short-term overload.

A heavier overload still pops the fusible link, they "go" before there's major damage to the rest of the circuit.

Schurkey said:

You'd be far better-off with the fusible link.

Click to expand...

I thought about you when I ordered the fuse holder and figured you'd comment on this decision and, you're right about that.

This fuse is way oversized for what load is on the distribution block, I still have the OE alternator that probably puts out a whopping 20 Amps anymore (JK). I just wanted some protection against a dead short if that wire ever gets grounded (another reason for the wire loom going from end to end). All of the others have fusible links or fuses coming off the distribution block, I think.

While waiting for my son yesterday, I decided to tackle the Mr Gasket copper exhaust gaskets' alignment. When we took the headers off, we noticed they didn't line up properly, the gaskets were too high and we saw carbon flash deposits on the bottom of them. So, I drilled out the mounting holes from 3/8" to 7/16" with a step drill.

You can see the size of the gasket compared to the header flange port.


When we got ready to install the headers, I put a bead of high temp copper RTV on the headers, set the gaskets in place and wiped the excess off.


Then, bolted them on. BTW, here's the easy way to install angled spark plugs


Got the headers and exhaust buttoned up, the starter in, wired it up, inspection cover on the bell housing, the Knock Sensor hooked up, motor mounts thightened up, filled the oil filter and installed it.

Here's the 2GA wire to the starter with a Kevlar type sleeve over the plastic wire loom where it goes next to the frame, for double protection.


Finally got the truck off the jack stands and it's ready for front accessories, intake manifold, distributor (will prime the pump and build pressure 1st), sensors, and connectors.

A picture for all you carburetor guys JK - couldn't help it.


Next week - making some noise, I hope!

A long time ago, in a service department far, far away...

...I tried putting spark plug into the head, before installing the headers. Got careless. Dropped the headers about an inch, onto the plugs. Didn't think much of it. Engine ran crappy thereafter.

Yup. Cracked a porcelain trying to "save time".




I like the braided protective sleeve over that battery cable. Mostly, I use convoluted tubing, but that stuff degrades over time and shatters.

Schurkey said:

Yup. Cracked a porcelain trying to "save time".

Click to expand...

I cracked a porcelain trying to get a socket over the plug with the header in place so, we're even

We continued putting the engine back together. Poured break in oil all over the lifters and rocker arms until the dipstick showed full. Then got the intake installed with "The Right Stuff" 1 minute RTV on the China rails and coolant ports on the heads to gaskets.

Started mounting the accessory brackets, grounds and brace bars. That took a while since we were working on memory. Damn, I shoulda taken more pictures, between where the nuts, bolts, and studs go.

We got it kinda figured out here.


Set the valve covers in place before starting to install anything else that will be in the way of them. Plus, they help to seal the engine from dust and debris.
Spent some extra time routing wires and replacing/adding some looms.
Here's the new pigtails for the coil to distributor and coil to battery with white tach wire.

Thanks to @Caman96 for finding one on Summit Racing (IIRC). After seeing what it's called, I found a Michigan Motor Sports one for around 1/2 price. Don't pay any attention to the application - this fits ALL TBI coils to distributors.


We spliced the Battery/Tach pigtail further back towards the firewall so we could run a wire loom and hide the heat shrink crimp connectors inside it, and the tach wire going to the Dakota Digital dash. They still need to be flexible enough to clear the air cleaner bottom.


Next week, we'll finish up everything but the distributor. (we're already at TDC compression stroke). Before stabbing it, we'll prime the oil pump, main and rod journals with my new priming tool (since I can't find my old distributor shaft with the gear ground smooth). I'll put my laptop on it and check all sensors and voltage feedback with KOEO. Then, maybe make some noise

PlayingWithTBI said:

After seeing what it's called

Click to expand...

Sometimes that’s 1/2 the battle.

Yesterday we got it all assembled and filled with fluids. It took almost 4 gallons of coolant. With a cordless drill we primed the oil pump and got ~54 PSI on the gauge in the dash. What scared the hell out of me was, while priming the pump, all of a sudden my fuel pressure gauge would go up to 20 PSI and hold there until we stopped the drill. Well duh! The oil pressure switch on the china rail is wired hot all the time so, when it saw oil pressure, it turned on the fuel pump, good thing we had the fuel lines hooked up and tightened!

Then, we stabbed the dizzy and I cranked the engine for 20 seconds, cool the starter for 20 seconds, three times (as per Blue Print's assembly instructions). The new 2GA battery wires had the engine cranking easily, 400 - 500 RPM (and ~10.9 volts) on the tach, and up to 50 PSI of oil.

After that, we hooked up all of the wires and the injectors, check fluid levels and fired it up! It took some cranking until it finally started. I had to hold the pedal down a little to keep it running while my son set the timing, with the EST wire disconnected, to 10° BTDC. With some playing with the min idle screw, we got the IAC down to ~15 steps. It still didn't wanna run very well, mainly because it was running pig rich, ~11.5 on the WBO2. After a couple adjustments in the program, I got it to run at commanded AFR of 14.7. With it idling in Closed Loop it smoothed out. Even with 230/236° @0.050", 28° advanced, ~60+ KPa MAP, at 800 RPM, it's a pretty smooth idle.

I still have 1/2 tank of 87 octane in it so, I'll do some tuning and break in for a while, and switch to 91. Then, after ~500 miles, I'll try a couple hits to see what range it likes.

While text is good, photos are great, video takes the cake (when possible). Especially with updates like this. Congrats on getting it back together and intial fire in it.