Just a little problem or ?

They can check it on their bench and it’s probably the most accurate.

But also they have a tester that will test your battery, alternator, then starter. In that order though. If the battery isn’t fully charged it can’t check the alternator. And if the alternator is no good it can’t check the starter.

But it’ll let you know if the whole system is good or not.

The biggest issue is, that with vehicles this old it could be anything from major components, to bad or degraded wiring, loose connections, corroded terminals.

You kind of just have to jump in and start isolating issues. In the military we call it half splitting. Start in the middle and work your way forward, or backwards. If you don’t find the issue, work the other direction.

Joe Dirte said:

Same one came loose on mine. Hate those stubby lil ********.

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Same here. I had to buy a new one cause the threads got messed up.

HotWheelsBurban said:

As for the battery cables, I have considered going top post, but hadn't wanted to hack the cables up any worse. Side terminals are a good design as long as you keep em clean and DON'T overtighten the bolts. Be careful when starting them in those soft lead threads and it works.

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I agree, in that I don't think they are as horrible as some people think. I like the fact that the top of the battery is clear of any electrical. I routinely use it like a little table to put tools, or the whole 1/4" drive tool box, or my coffee. They also don't seem to have corrosion isses as much as I've seen with top posts. I also would rather not cut my original cables just to have to pick from one of the top post options that I don't really care for, either.

IMO, don't go top post, they seem to corrode here faster than side posts. What I've done to make those terminals tight as can be, get a regular bolt and a tightening nut. Once you get rid of the stupid the factory bolt and "terminal protectors" on the cables, you'll have a secure way of keeping your terminals on the battery. This bolt swap helps if you want to add any accessory wires like subs or aux lighting.

98chevy2500SS said:

IMO, don't go top post, they seem to corrode here faster than side posts. What I've done to make those terminals tight as can be, get a regular bolt and a tightening nut. Once you get rid of the stupid the factory bolt and "terminal protectors" on the cables, you'll have a secure way of keeping your terminals on the battery. This bolt swap helps if you want to add any accessory wires like subs or aux lighting.

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Did this on mine but also runnin dual posts for other stuff. Mine was havin a lot of issues with idlin and charging. Turns out the OEM set up melted the plastic from bein a bad connection on the positive n wasn't Makin good contact.

If can ever figure out why it won't run right I'll be added more accessories n don't want a bunch of stuff run off just one positive post.

454cid said:

I agree, in that I don't think they are as horrible as some people think. I like the fact that the top of the battery is clear of any electrical. I routinely use it like a little table to put tools, or the whole 1/4" drive tool box, or my coffee. They also don't seem to have corrosion isses as much as I've seen with top posts. I also would rather not cut my original cables just to have to pick from one of the top post options that I don't really care for, either.

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That's a very good point about the flat, clear top of the battery. GM did this for hood clearance back in the early 70s.

It just comes natural huh?

98chevy2500SS said:

IMO, don't go top post, they seem to corrode here faster than side posts. What I've done to make those terminals tight as can be, get a regular bolt and a tightening nut. Once you get rid of the stupid the factory bolt and "terminal protectors" on the cables, you'll have a secure way of keeping your terminals on the battery. This bolt swap helps if you want to add any accessory wires like subs or aux lighting.

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I did the same on the positive side so I can run my winch.

I installed a second battery on mine, the tray was there. I have the 140amp battery, no starting issues even in the low 20's we occasionally get here in N. GA. I can also leave things charging for days at a time and not worry about starting. I do keep an eye on the connections as they will build up corrosion not visible and still be tight. So, I routinely pull the connections and clean them.

baxterday said:

I installed a second battery on mine, the tray was there. I have the 140amp battery, no starting issues even in the low 20's we occasionally get here in N. GA.

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Why would you even consider a second battery if the temperature is still above "zero" F.?

Two batteries at Thirty Below, maybe.

Mostly, two batteries are needed when cranking a Diesel, or when using a snow plow that has electric-powered hydraulics to lift and turn the plow.