Getting tach signal from the alternator

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Tommy Frantz

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Guys,

How hard is it to get the tach signal from the alternator on a gas 97 K3500? The tach signal normally comes from the ignition system,, I have savaged this truck by installing a 6v53 Detroit Diesel,, my tach is now busted and was thinking the alternator fix might be easier. Thoughts?

Thanks!
Tommy
 

RichLo

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I got a good deal on a 200 amp diesel alternator and installed it in my 93 k1500 gasser. It bolted right in with no fitment issues at all, the electical plugs were even the same. I have not tried to get a tach signal from it but I cant imagine its difficult. Hope this helps
 

Jglew82

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The 6.5 truck alternator has a white wire (pin P) that goes to the tach. Maybe try finding a diesel alternator and try that. You might need a diesel cluster as well, which if it were mine, I'd do both anyway since you converted.

Also, holy hell 6v53? I wanna see this.
 

Ed Hardy

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Getting a tach reading from your alternator? Well, I purchase a speedo and tachometer and it was telling me to hook it up to alternator and I was gonna, but where do you Connect to get a speedo or tachometeror to get this reading from your alternator? What I’m seeing here is diesel diesel diesel can I get a tach reading from my alternator on my 91 suburban naturally aspirated 350 TBI? Most of the instructions that I received on both parts are 98% Japanese writing 2% English. It shows the square wave pattern coming from the alternator for the speedometer and a tachometer but I just never have heard of that. I do have multiple plug-ins on my alternator I just didn't want to fry my new equipment attempting to find out on my own. Anybody out there have an answer?
 

AuroraGirl

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All GM alternators since the CS130 was deployed for use in 1986 to whenever the 2 pin garbage of the 2000s started have a Terminal, P, which can be used to get a tach signal. There are situations where there are things mounted externally on an alt and read a wheel, but Idk about gm on that one.

Not all GM alternators that are CS130 however internally hooked up the P terminal, thus you couldnt use them for the alt but there was another pn alt with a different plug(the smaller side so not the large end which is a sense, but the small one which is P for phase now had a wire). It's possible the phase terminal "P" is not connected internally. Get a DMM, set it to measure AC voltage with at least a 30V range, and measure between the P terminal and ground with the engine running. This will tell you if the P is internally connected to one of the stator leads.
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S is the big side, sense, it may or may not be used from factory on your truck, L is probably not, but it depends on if your ECM has any monitoring/say over your charging system, I/F depends on the same thing. if its I not F, a charge light or a resistor provides the excite signal, if its F the PCM would provide the resisted ignition. P is your tachometer wire which you need to see if yours is wired to do so if you are unsure


It could probably be modified by you easily since relatively simple.

But. A CS130D or an AD230 is probably(dont know for sure) wired internally already and they have better reliability, lifespan than the CS130 and they use internal fans (safety for your hand while playing with your truck) they also have better outputs. Cheap too
they also are wired the same way you just need a new pigtail or a conversion pigtail to wire them
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Concerns
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The engine RPMs and the alternator RPMs are proportional and change based on the amount of throttle you provide, which varies from idle to WOT. Meaning you dont have to worry about pulley sizes changing it. but you want to make sure all grounds and your sense wire are used and good. Just so the internal math doesnt have to account for swings from poor hygeine


TO MY understanding, the tach you have now is driven by AC voltage. If so, that is how your tach can be driven with the alt. If its not driven by AC, you will need a tachometer which you can buy a one that sits on your column usually
 

Ed Hardy

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And as you would guess I had the two pin. That's what you call Eds luck boys and girls.
 

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Ed Hardy

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But I must say what is complete and thorough! Explanation! I do have one spooky question to ask; how did you know I need a bath!? Ha! I did the math and I still can't come up with that one. Thanks for the info.
 

AuroraGirl

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And as you would guess I had the two pin. That's what you call Eds luck boys and girls.
no you have a 4 pin alternator, a CS130 model. It may not have 1 of the 4 hooked up internally, but you could solder it if you truly were savy for it, otherwise you need to just use a multimeter on a running engine on the Open cavity thats small(not the large cavity on the other end) you just need to see if you have AC voltage on the small pin, alt side, while running.;

if not, you need a diff alt or solder job
If you get a different alt, get a CS130 or an Ad230
 
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