L31 Extreme Budget Build

[Erik the Awful]

Right front fender does not have damage. The edge of the door skin/door is bent out because the door check let it open too wide. Probably a gust of wind caught it and slamed it open at some point. The 1992 cargo van that I cut up as a donor van years ago had the same thing happen on the driver side. The door skin gets folded back when the door check fails and the door skin catches the lower hinge. The door check roll pin is still broken.

I remember you mentioning a broken pin now. That explains the tapered gap.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

492 cam ??? I don't remember that one. I remember you back in the day on third gen as 355 something. You always had very interesting builds! Those cam numbers are all some for a street car! Keep up the good work.

Thats me. GM 94666492 is the full part number. It has 6492 stamped on the end. Basically it is a cam that GM shipped in a 300 hp marine engine. These are measurements I took with a dial indicator on a clamp and a degree wheel.

258/282 @ 0.006
200/216 @ 0.050
118/130 @ 0.200
0.3015/0.310 lobe lift
0.452/0.465 lift with a 1.5 rocker
111 ICL and 120 ECL
115.5 LSA

 

[L31MaxExpress]

I have the fuel lines done up. I ran out of 5/8" cushion clamps though. I installed the set of new spark plug heatshields I picked up a while back from a GM dealer on Amazon. I also changed the wire looming over to a Moroso kit I had laying around the shop. Grabbed a L31 truck/suv dipstick tube and stick. It has enough reach to be fairly easy to get to even in the van. I have a little wiring left to do, some looming and cleanup and the engine is done. I do need to order a 2" tall metal air cleaner spacer and longer stud. The GM spacer is a sloppy fit on the Edelbrock throttle body and the air cleaner and transmission dip stick are trying to live in the same space.

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[89gmc]

Thats me. GM 94666492 is the full part number. It has 6492 stamped on the end. Basically it is a cam that GM shipped in a 300 hp marine engine. These are measurements I took with a dial indicator on a clamp and a degree wheel.

258/282 @ 0.006
200/216 @ 0.050
118/130 @ 0.200
0.3015/0.310 lobe lift
0.452/0.465 lift with a 1.5 rocker
111 ICL and 120 ECL
115.5 LSA

Thanks!

 

[L31MaxExpress]

Well now on to what is probably my least favorite part. Front end parts are here. No time like the present on this cold Texas evening to get started on it. The OE rotors had plenty of meat to them and resurfaced nicely. The OE wheel bearings are probably in better shape than the chinesium replacements are out of the box. Lower control arms and control arm shafts are unobtanium. I thought I found a pair of shafts in the summit bargain cave, but they were for a C10, G10 or light duty G20. Apparantly this van is based off the Big 10 trucks. $50 bucks, no huge deal, I will sell them or trade them off to one of my C10 buddies. I was going to do the lower bushings, but they still look and feel decent. So its lower ball joints, upper control arms, tie rod ends, steering idler, front brakes and a master cylinder on the menu for this evening.

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[Scooterwrench]

That'll keep you busy for a couple hours. Ol thing oughtta ride nice. Any bodywork and paint planned? I vote for a 70's style hippy van. Psychedelic paint,crushed velvet interior,side pipes,Crager SS's and bid fender flares.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

That'll keep you busy for a couple hours. Ol thing oughtta ride nice. Any bodywork and paint planned? I vote for a 70's style hippy van. Psychedelic paint,crushed velvet interior,side pipes,Crager SS's and bid fender flares.

At some point after shake down, body work and paint is planned. Nothing crazy although that would be very cool.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

Taking a cold drink break. Master cylinder is installed. Driverside suspension is done. About to start on the passenger side. The driverside upper control arm put up a fight getting it into position to mate to the knuckle. I figured the lower ball joint would give me more of a fight. I know the trick on the UCA now to get the passenger side done without messing with it for 45 minutes, trying to pry it down into place. I need to get a wire wheel and some lacquer thinner after that lower control arm and knuckle. Then rattle can them semi gloss black before I reassemble the brakes. I am waiting on the tie rod ends for last, because I have to crawl around in the greasy mess a bit. I kept track of the shim stack on the uppers and returned the same shims back where they were. Hopefully that will get me into the ball park. I forgot how much I hate the shim style stuff.

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As I mentioned I went back to the older cast iron master cylinder on this. Same unit my 1983 G20 used. Maybe it is my imigination but I feel the cast iron units give better life than the aluminum units.

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[Supercharged111]

Shims FTW!

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Not. This is on the Monte. I think the aftermarket arms are extra long so the roundy round crowd can get some positive camber on the inside tire. This was to achieve -0.3* of camber on both sides and some caster to give it feel, balanced until the car went straight down the road.

 

[Scooterwrench]

You're just discovering to jack up the LCA to get the upper on? Didn't know there was any other way.
Yeah,the rubber seals play better with cast iron. The seals will actually wear aluminum. Do you happen to know what the bore size is in that MC?