I don't understand. There's no torque-then-loosen procedure for the seal next to the inner bearing. Only for the entire hub/rotor, bearings, seal, 'n' spindle assembly. That torque would be beyond tight enough to assure that the seal lips pop over the seal surface of the spindle. But I did forget to mention that the seal surface should be checked for wear, and properly cleaned-off, and the new seal lip lightly lubed.Schurkey, what about the inner seal seating? Is there a torque then loosen procedure?
I also forgot to mention that I clean the rotor/hub in the solvent tank, and wipe off the spindle thoroughly so there's ZERO chance of debris stuck in "old grease" in the rotor/hub's bearing area; and the hub gets a layer of grease in the bearing area in addition to the grease on the bearings. Ford specifies LB/GC, NLGI #2 Moly-enhanced (grey) grease; GM and many others use the typical LB/GC NLGI #2 "Red" stuff. There's a dozen colors, a hundred brands of grease, and a thousand formulations. As long as you're buying grease that's LB/GC rated, NLGI #2, and DO NOT MIX GREASES you pretty-much can't go wrong. For GM vehicles, the LB/GC #2 "Red" is entirely sufficient for packable wheel bearings.
I use Valvoline Red, except on Fords. There's plenty of other choices that work as well. This stuff used to say "GM--Chrysler--Imports" in bigger letters on the tub.
You must be registered for see images attach
The Valvoline "Ford" grease specs are not quite as good as the "Red"; but still completely acceptable, and still LB/GC rated...and it's what Ford wants.
You must be registered for see images attach
When it's me, I spin the nut off, remove the outer (little) bearing, put the nut back on the spindle. Then I pull the rotor/hub so that the outer race clears the nut. WHAM! I slide the rotor/hub off the spindle/nut so that the nut knocks the inner (big) bearing and seal out of the rotor/hub.
I've never damaged the inner bearing doing this. The seal "might" be re-usable, but I never do.
The new seal is carefully whacked into place with a hammer--unless the seal is unusually shaped. Some guys insist on using seal drivers, and that's fine. Aside from the "weird" seals, I've never needed to.
Last edited: