5W30 or 10W30, synthetic or traditional? Opinions wanted

[454cid]

I would go by how much oil the truck uses between oil changes, and how often you're changing it. If you're adding quite a bit, between changes, and/or your oil change interval is low, then stick with dinosaur oil.

Either 5w30 or 10w30 would be fine.... 5w30 is factory fill.

You might also want to consider how long you're running your filter... the cheapys won't last as long.

 

[Hipster]

I’m not following you brother

https://www.gmt400.com/threads/the-ship-of-theseus.61868/

 

[618 Syndicate]

Oil.
Some is better than none.
The end.

 

[Hipster]

Oil.
Some is better than none.
The end.

How much is some? a tablespoon of it isn't going to get it done?

 

[Caman96]

Oil.
Some is better than none.
How much is some? a tablespoon of it isn't going to get it done?

^^^Sounds like a poem, or maybe something from Dr. Seuss

 

[Schurkey]

[Sigh.]

"Regular" vs. "Synthetic" is a moot point in the USA. Most of what is sold as "synthetic" in the USA cannot be sold as synthetic in Europe. MOST "synthetic" oil in the USA is made from...CRUDE OIL. It is only "synthetic" in terms of marketing, not origin.

REAL synthetic oil is typically made from natural gas. USA-Phony "synthetic" is crude oil that's had Van Halen played at astronomical volume levels until the crude oil submits, then it gets an additive package, and shoved into bottles that claim "SYNTHETIC" so they can charge more for it.

It's like saying that bread is "synthetic wheat" because it's been mixed with other stuff, and scientifically heat-treated (baked).

Unless you're paying REAL MONEY for the product, you're getting "Dino" oil that's been heat treated and legally mis-labeled.

Note that I'm not saying this is a bad product. Just that it's NOT "synthetic", and the consumer is being cheated and deliberately misled.

DECADES ago, oil sold as synthetic really was significantly better than "regular" oil in terms of cleaning action (detergency) cold-flow, heat resistance, etc. Synthetic oil would remove carbon-based "false seals" in an engine, leading to oil leaks. The only reason the engine wasn't leaking (or not leaking much) was because the SLUDGE plugged the leaks. Synthetic oil removed the sludge. THAT is where the concept of "synthetic oil causes leaks" comes from.

If your engine isn't filled with sludge--and it probably isn't, at least not like carbureted engines with poor maintenance used to be--you have nothing to worry about.




I'm planning oil changes and transmission-services in the near future. Found out the hard way that I could order Amsoil "synthetic" trans fluid delivered to my door for LESS than I can buy Dex/Merc case-lots locally. Also got gallon jugs of Amsoil 5W-30, since every four-stroke engine I own uses that, from big-blocks to garden equipment.

 

[618 Syndicate]

Mey not get it done, but it's better....

 

[1990Z71Swede]

Use whatever viscosity your manual claims. Buy it in bulk, get a few Wix or AcDelco filters. Make sure there is always some oil and at least a filter at home.
Change oil once every year, Have a beer while doin it... (If you drive your vehicle ALOT, taking oil samples might be smarter. In that case, have a beer while taking the sample)

As long as the oil matches the API Quality Specs that your manual states you are golden. Remember, a lot of the "improvements" done to motor oil for the last 20 years is trying to make the oil handle increased blow by from low tension piston rings without turning into sludge and still lubricate well without the sulfur and Zink additives removed to keep emission equipment from goin **** up.

That does not mean modern oil is crap, it is not. It is packed with features that modern engines benefit from.
Your truck just does not need most of them.

If you need thicker oil to keep oil pressure up, your engine is trying to tell you something
And Remember when the oil get really really hot, they all have basically the same viscosity, the thicker oils just take longer to get to that overstressed rod bearing.

 

[0xDEADBEEF]

I tend to put 10w-30 in everything that calls for 5w-30, but I live in TX.

 

[Erik the Awful]

tl;dr:
synthetic vs non doesn't matter
run 5w30 unless your oil pressure is low

It used to be that during engine break-in you needed to use non-synthetic oil. Even that rule is going away, because as Schurkey said, "synthetic" is more of a marketing term than a standard. Also note that a lot of oil these days has been recycled. You can run the cheapest oil you can find so long as you change it often. I typically go for whatever budget priced mid-quality oil I can regularly find in my nearest parts stores, and over the years that's changed from non-synthetic to synthetic.

Our trucks came from the factory specifying 5w30. If you're having trouble getting oil pressure, step up to 10w30, but as already stated, since that "30" number is the same, when it's fully warmed that extra viscosity goes away. Good luck finding 10w40 any more. I wouldn't run 20w50 unless I was trying to limp a ragged out hulk back to the house for a rebuild.