xXxPARAGONxXx’s 1999 Chevrolet K2500 Crew Cab

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kennythewelder

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Yes. It didn't leak at first. I think I had the seal driven a little to far in the housing. Thing is, to get to the seal, you have to remove the yoke, and that means you unset the crush sleeve. I was so glad I had the eliminator kit. I just torqued everything back down, once I replaced the seal, and I was finished. It didn't effect the pinion depth, at all.
 
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Orpedcrow

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I like the challenge of the crush sleeve.
“I lIkE tHe ChAlLeNgE oF tHe CrUsH sLeEvE”
That’s you, that’s what you sound like…


:rotflmao:
Just kidding man, they’re not terrible but you’ll be happy you bought some extras. You’ll want a looooong ratchet or breaker bar though
 

kennythewelder

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Any down side to the eliminator’s?
Just the time it takes to set it up. It's a harden tube, with spacer washer, shims. You shim it to the correct pinion depth, and tighten the yoke. Then check the pinion depth. If it's wrong, simply add a shim, or 2, or remove 1 or 2. Whatever is needed. Once it's set, that's it. If you ever need to pull the yoke again, you can. If you have a crush sleeve, once it's set, that's fine, but if you over torque it, crushing the sleeve a little to much, you have to start all over, with a new crush sleeve. Also, torque can play a factor, over time, on a crush sleeve. It can in time, cause the crush sleeve to become loose, some what. This will allow slack in the pinion depth. This can not happen with a crush sleeve eliminator kit. But I admit, the reason I used one, is BC I didn't want to fool with several crush sleeves to get the pinion depth rite. There are a ton of videos on you tube about this. All in all though, I did what I wanted to my truck, anyone who wants to do something different, that's all good too.
 
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xXxPARAGONxXx

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These specialty tools are killing me, this stupid puller is ridiculous overpriced
Look into alternatives. Improvise or pay someone else for the work.

If you find one on eBay, it's usually not even priced close to the cost of buying one new. They are usually bargains because the sellers buy them in auctions at a fraction of the cost the dealership paid for them. If you buy them new directly from GM Tools and Equipment, you will pay even more than those on eBay (usually).

Are they expensive? Yes. The reason they are expensive is because they are designed to accomplish specific tasks, and they actually work. They are usually made in America of quality material, unlike Chinese "specialty" tools which may break even during the first attempt at performing a job. They also perform the task in the least amount of time. For dealership techs, this is important because they work flat rate, and their time is their money.

I can say unequivocally that these tools have saved money, headache, and frustration. I don't regret buying a single one of them.
 
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caw_86

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Look into alternatives. Improvise or pay someone else for the work.

If you find one on eBay, it's usually not even priced close to the cost of buying one new. They are usually bargains because the sellers buy them in auctions at a fraction of the cost the dealership paid for them. If you buy them new directly from GM Tools and Equipment, you will pay even more than those on eBay (usually).

Are they expensive? Yes. The reason they are expensive is because they are designed to accomplish specific tasks, and they actually work. They are usually made in America of quality material, unlike Chinese "specialty" tools which may break even during the first attempt at performing a job. They also perform the task in the least amount of time. For dealership techs, this is important because they work flat rate, and their time is their money.

I can say unequivocally that these tools have saved money headache and frustration. I don't regret buying a single one of them.
I agree with all you say, and i get it, its a tool made for only one purpose and not many will be made so cost per unit will be high
 
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