In desperate need of help

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Hipster

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Ran out of power? Engine power? Battery power? Alternator power?


You don't know that "all" your connections are "decent". You haven't tested them all. And you've sabotaged at least some of them--the ones that were protected by the ****-fuse.

Really? Ma_xi is obscene?


Engine running? Engine off?

The battery, if fully charged, should have 12.6--12.7 volts. You need to put a battery charger on that battery.


Ignition on, or off? Which wire were you probing? There should be at least two connections on the alternator; the alternator output wire and a molded-plastic "plug-in" connector with at least one wire.



How is that wise? Why would you do that?


Picture?


I'd expect 14 + volts. Typically 14.2.


So you're saying the problem is in the vehicle wire harness?
bingo
 

smdk2500

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Doesn't the light in the gauge cluster have to be in good working order for the alt to charge? I remember reading that somewhere. Maybe its for older stuff damn CRS.
 

Dan1raysouth

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It runs perfectly fine without the 175 amp fuse the problem ended up headlights. When I turned my headlights on I started seeing 14 volts... the truck threw the cyl 1 piston out the bottom of the oil pan.
 

Dan1raysouth

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It was either me turning on my headlights or the gauge cluster fuse. But I turned on head lights and change gauge cluster fuse and it fixed just for her to burp a piston and rod out the oil pan this morning cylinder one.
So she’s gonna be getting a engine
 

1998_K1500_Sub

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The 175A “mega fuse” and heavier gauge wiring was GM RPO ZM9 (at least in 1998). The mega fuse and holder mounted on the passenger’s side of the radiator shroud. Heavier wiring was used from the alternator to the fuse and from there onto the fuse box on the driver’s side firewall.

The fuse was between the alt and battery, not the alt and fuse box.

Why OP removed it isn’t clear. Maybe some prior owner messed it up.

Details are here and in some posts that follow it, including a schematic from the 1998 service manual:

 

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JeremyNH

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The brown wire is the generator turn on signal wire (12V). It comes through the dash. When 12V is applied the alternator turns on. No 12V no alternator volts. In the event of high or low volts the switch goes to ground turning off the alternator and completing the lamp circuit so that the battery trouble light comes on in the dash. May be your problem.

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RichLo

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I'm sorry but this thread has to be one of the worst as far as somebody needing help and giving absolutely 0 feedback or explanations on what is happening.

Now he turned his headlights on and the alternator started working but he put a piston threw the oil pan..... :wtf2::wtf2::wtf2::wtf2:

use your words man!!!
 
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