It's not being suggested that you convert the truck to 4wd, we're suggesting you use the 4wd frame and front suspension in much the same way that the GMT-800 uses the same torsion bar suspension for 2wd and 4wd.
Ahh, okay. I'm gonna stick with the current frame and fix it.
you figure out what you are doing to fix the cut out cross memeber?
I'm going to trim the torch cuts into straight lines, cut cardboard templates, and weld in some 3/16" plate. I'll have to finish wiring the shop up first, but I've been looking into wire and gray PVC, so that may finally happen.
I did grab my other drill index and used its 3/8" bit to try and drill out the seatbelt anchor. It's garbooned as well, so I ordered a pack of 3/8" cobalt bits from Amazon. It's a real pain trying to get the bits to chip and retain their edge when you're drilling uphill and the cutting oil just drips away from the tip.
After I gave up on drilling through the anchor, I grabbed the wire wheel and worked more on the floor until the Harbor Freight grinder felt like it was about to catch fire in my hands. The driver's side is far worse than the passenger side for corrosion.
The Chickasha Auto Swap Meet was a pretty successful venture. I got some 1 3/4" primary long tube headers that ought to fit nicely for $60, a Victor Jr with clean bolt holes and silver powdercoating for $80, and some vintage v-belt pulleys for $20. I would have preferred a Super Victor, but I didn't see any for sale, and honestly, a Victor Jr's probably more appropriately sized for the motor I plan on building.