Lower control arms

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454cid

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It doesnt even look like i can go much lower on the drivers side. It looks like the Bolt is almost all the way out lol

I would probably start off, with swapping in stock keys. That may make is necessary for you to remove the rest of the lift parts, Though. Given the angles of all the suspension parts, I'd think you could drop it some without having to swap everything else.

I wonder if it would be possible to use the existing keys, but remove the keys and rotate them one notch and put them back on.
 

xAFNYx

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I would probably start off, with swapping in stock keys. That may make is necessary for you to remove the rest of the lift parts, Though. Given the angles of all the suspension parts, I'd think you could drop it some without having to swap everything else.

I wonder if it would be possible to use the existing keys, but remove the keys and rotate them one notch and put them back on.

I would if I had the stock keys or the stock struts and stuff. And if the issue weren't ONLY the front driver side.
See, I don't really know or understand how torsion keys work, so I don't know what turning the key would do.
 

1998_K1500_Sub

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That's what my torsion adjustment looks like. And it's the same on both sides.

Am I right to be concerned about that brake hose? That sucker looks pretty stretched when the wheels are straight ahead and the weight is on the suspension. I expect it would pull even tighter when turned to one extreme or the other, possibly rubbing against the upper control arm.
 

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xAFNYx

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Am I right to be concerned about that brake hose? That sucker looks pretty stretched when the wheels are straight ahead and the weight is on the suspension. I expect it would pull even tighter when turned to one extreme or the other, possibly rubbing against the upper control arm.
I also have concern about it. I don't know if it has to do with the camber of the wheel or what
 

Caman96

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Yeah a lot of questions on this xAFNYX. And really not trying to pile on, but I always have to question a recent build by a previous owner and then he immediately sells it. Like he knew it had issues and just wanted to unload it. It is fixable though, so I wish you the best!
 

454cid

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I would if I had the stock keys or the stock struts and stuff. And if the issue weren't ONLY the front driver side.
See, I don't really know or understand how torsion keys work, so I don't know what turning the key would do.

The torsion bars work by twisting. The keys hold the back end in place. The bolts rotate the torsion keys/bars to change the pre-load.... adding/subtracting twist.

You'd have to buy what you don't have. I'm not sure what a replacement stock key set would cost. Shocks can be had cheap, but what you have would probably work for now.

If you really can move the driver's side by hand, you've got to have something loose, somewhere.
 

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Yeah a lot of questions on this xAFNYX. And really not trying to pile on, but I always have to question a recent build by a previous owner and then he immediately sells it. Like he knew it had issues and just wanted to unload it. It is fixable though, so I wish you the best!
yup. kind of why I suggested a proper alignment by someone that knows what they're doing. Those other numbers some alignment guys commonly delete can help narrow down if there are bent components involved or frame damage. SAI, Included angle, set back, turn radius, all need to be on the sheet when trying to diagnose issues.
 

xAFNYx

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Yeah a lot of questions on this xAFNYX. And really not trying to pile on, but I always have to question a recent build by a previous owner and then he immediately sells it. Like he knew it had issues and just wanted to unload it. It is fixable though, so I wish you the best!
I can say that I definitely don't think he installed the lift recently. I know he did it himself, could've been YEARS ago though. The parts certainly looked it. I just happen to believe he did it and just drove it to SH** for that entire time.

yup. kind of why I suggested a proper alignment by someone that knows what they're doing. Those other numbers some alignment guys commonly delete can help narrow down if there are bent components involved or frame damage. SAI, Included angle, set back, turn radius, all need to be on the sheet when trying to diagnose issues.

Yeah, I'm just going to have to bring it to a reputable Truck mechanic and see what they say. I work at a shop but they aren't really real mechanics. They're just lazy young people who run a performance shop. So whatever quick, high mark-up things they can do..they do. And doing an employees vehicle isn't a priority I guess. So they just kept saying things and after the last batch of parts they had me buy and throw at it they said "we don't know. Maybe frame damage. Sell it". Whatever it is, I just hope it's fixable and not going to cost me what I paid for the Truck itself. I'm already close to 7k into something I got for a winter beater. It's just frustrating. New York sucks lol
 

Anubis

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I have this lift on my truck and I can tell you the aftermarket keys or the torsion bars have nothing to do with it. You need to use the upper control arms provided by rough country and make sure they are mounted as Close as they can possibly be to the frame. In my case cranking up the torsion bars improves the camber. I actually lowered my truck because I wanted a softer ride. I was able to do this and still get acceptable camber. If only one side on your truck is giving you problems I would suspect frame damage. The first steps in fixing this is taking it to a frame shop to see if it is in spec. Also make sure the cut outs for the upper control arm mounts have been removed. As noted earlier, the arm should be pushed in towards the frame as far as they can go.

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