Lower control arms

[Hipster]

I'm just throwing parts at it hoping it'll get resolved.

How about describing the issue you're fighting? You have an alignment spec sheet? What else has been done, cranked, lift kit?

 

[Caman96]

Wow, I had no idea the K1500's lowers weren't made any more. I was able to find one Left on Partsgeek and a right on RockAuto. here are the links
recently bought mine because I'm restoring a 1990 454SS.

98 1998 Chevrolet K1500 Control Arm - Suspension - AC Delco, API, CARQUEST, Centric, DIY Solutions, Delphi, Detroit Axle, Dorman, Mevotech, Moog, Quick Steer, Replacement, SKP, TRQ, Front, Front Left Upper, Front Right Upper, Front Upper - PartsGeek

Buy a 1998 Chevrolet K1500 Control Arm at discount prices. Choose top quality brands AC Delco, API, CARQUEST, Centric, DIY Solutions, Delphi, Detroit Axle, Dorman, Mevotech, Moog, Quick Steer, Replacement, SKP, TRQ.

www.partsgeek.com

98 1998 Chevrolet K1500 Control Arm - Suspension - AC Delco, API, CARQUEST, Centric, DIY Solutions, Delphi, Detroit Axle, Dorman, Mevotech, Moog, Quick Steer, Replacement, SKP, TRQ, Front, Front Left Upper, Front Right Upper, Front Upper - PartsGeek

Buy a 1998 Chevrolet K1500 Control Arm at discount prices. Choose top quality brands AC Delco, API, CARQUEST, Centric, DIY Solutions, Delphi, Detroit Axle, Dorman, Mevotech, Moog, Quick Steer, Replacement, SKP, TRQ.

www.partsgeek.com

Those links are for UPPER control arms! The OP needs LOWER control arms.

 

[BOSCO76]

the 22nd part on the PartsGeek link is lower, and the 10th on the RockAuto is a lower, all the rest are uppers

 

[Caman96]

the 22nd part on the PartsGeek link is lower, and the 10th on the RockAuto is a lower, all the rest are uppers

Yes your correct it does list them for K1500’s, but the picture they show is for 2wd LCA.
Notice difference in 2nd photo. Are you saying you purchased for a K1500?

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[454cid]

Wow, I had no idea the K1500's lowers weren't made any more. I was able to find one Left on Partsgeek and a right on RockAuto. here are the links
recently bought mine because I'm restoring a 1990 454SS.

You have a 2wd.... completely different part.

 

[BOSCO76]

Yup, Thats what I just installed on my 454SS, 2WD. Thanks for clarifying for the OP. LOL

 

[xAFNYx]

How about describing the issue you're fighting? You have an alignment spec sheet? What else has been done, cranked, lift kit?

Man. I wish I could describe in words what's going on. But I'll sure try....

98 silverado k1500. Lifted with rough country 2-3" kit.

So the front driver wheel is just cambered TF out. You can pull the wheel straight when's it's just on the ground and you can see the suspension go up and down. And when we had it on the lift to inspect it we discovered that while spinning the wheel, at some point you reach a point of slight resistance. And when turning through the resistance point, the suspension visibly goes up and down.
The first shop said it could be adjustment bolts on the uca, so I changed those and it didn't fix it. The second shop checked the axle and hub assembely, they said it was good.

I've changed the uca, upper lower ball joints, center link, idler and Pitman arm, all 4 shocks, inner and outer tie rods, and end links.

 

[Caman96]

So what’s wrong with the LCA’s? Personally, I’d lose the RC lift.

 

[xAFNYx]

So what’s wrong with the LCA’s? Personally, I’d lose the RC lift.

I don't know that there's necessarily anything wrong. I figure I at least throw new bushings in them to see if it helps and if it doesn't then they're new bushings.

I would love to lose the lift, I was told that unlifting a truck is more expensive than lifting it.

 

[454cid]

I don't know that there's necessarily anything wrong. I figure I at least throw new bushings in them to see if it helps and if it doesn't then they're new bushings.

I would love to lose the lift, I was told that unlifting a truck is more expensive than lifting it.

I would think that depends on how it was lifted. Some of them require cutting original parts..... the axle, I think.... or maybe the frame? If that's not the case, it should be just a matter of unbolting things, I would think. Then you can sell the thing and get money back!