Sticky Locks, Where to Look?

[Supercharged111]

Ever since I got the dually, I've lived with 2 sticky locks. Lately I've got a bug up my ass to fix it, so I'm wondering if you guys have found common causes? Basically when I hit the electric locks, they're not strong enough to actuate 2 of the doors. You can physically feel that they're sticking a little. Is it as simple as a squirt of WD40 on the lock/latch assembly? Or have you guys had trouble with the actuators too? If so, is there a good place to lube them?

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

Or have you guys had trouble with the actuators too? If so, is there a good place to lube them?

I had the same issue on my 88 the actuators had all kinds of dust and grime in them. I replaced them but, i was able to free the old ones up and spray them with white lithium grease to work like new. I took the doors completely apart but, you s/b able to get the actuators out through the open slot in the panel after drilling out the 2 - 3/16" rivets on the left side of this picture.

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[Dale Stevens]

S, I took my door panel off and cleaned/lubed the guides that the lock rod rides on. I then blind-sprayed lube ( not WD40) back toward the lock mechanism inside the door.
That did it. Hope this helps, Dale

 

[GoToGuy]

Anything moving mechanical and actuating rods slow intermittent, check for lack of lubrication or an excess turned to a clay mass restricted action. Still no remedy, now you may have a part breakdown situation.

 

[Supercharged111]

I had the same issue on my 88 the actuators had all kinds of dust and grime in them. I replaced them but, i was able to free the old ones up and spray them with white lithium grease to work like new. I took the doors completely apart but, you s/b able to get the actuators out through the open slot in the panel after drilling out the 2 - 3/16" rivets on the left side of this picture.

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Good thing I brought my rivet gun and rivets with me.

S, I took my door panel off and cleaned/lubed the guides that the lock rod rides on. I then blind-sprayed lube ( not WD40) back toward the lock mechanism inside the door.
That did it. Hope this helps, Dale

I'm guessing this was with the panel off?

 

[TechNova]

Pull the door lock motors off and clean and rebuild them. I did a Tahoe a year ago and it works far better.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

Good thing I brought my rivet gun and rivets with me.

Yeah, there was a little more to my situation. My daughter broke off the key in the lock and then later they wouldn't even work so, I decided to tear both doors completely apart, replace the lock cylinders, actuators, and switches. We took out the window regulators too and cleaned them up. Door locks work great and windows go up/down twice as fast.

FYI all of the rivets are 3/16" except the window regulator ones which are 1/4". I got a pop rivet gun from HF for the job, it made it a lot easier. I just figured, on a 30+ year old truck, everything was pretty well worn out anyway.

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[someotherguy]

S, I took my door panel off and cleaned/lubed the guides that the lock rod rides on. I then blind-sprayed lube ( not WD40) back toward the lock mechanism inside the door.
That did it. Hope this helps, Dale

Yes sir. Been preaching this one every time someone asks about sticky door locks; gummed-up old lube on the rods and the plastic guide clips they hook into are the most common cause. Cleaning the old lube off the rods in the area that contacts the guide clip, then carefully clean the guides, and shoot a little fresh white lithium grease on them. Easy and costs practically nothing.

Richard

 

[thegawd]

on my burb those 3/16 rivets PWTBI is talking about had actually sheared off. allowing the actuator to just move freely inside the door and not do a damn thing. lol. also the rods were not in the guides. after fixing and lubing things up it was all good as new.

man that is a slick as hell rivet gun.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

man that is a slick as hell rivet gun.

Yeah, you need it when setting 1/4" rivets. IIRC it was only ~$50 at Harried Fright