who are the go to steering/suspension parts now?

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454cid

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Wilecoyote

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Caman96

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It gets weird, this label is in the box,
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nowhere does they have PS stamped on them like I can see in the old PS stuff....
….and it gets even weirder. Those same numbers are on the inside of Acdelco upper control arms. Seems the only difference might be the box they come in!
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DonYukon

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Just swap in a chromoly Heim joints a couple 3 inchers would do nicely. would ride like worse than a honda with cut springs but youd never change them again on a highway truck lol
 

WhiteUCF

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I wouldn't use Moog again. I installed brand new Moog lca's and the included cotter pin failed while at the landfill (3 days after installation and alignment) and a truck full of house parts. I don't impact parts and torqued the nut to factory spec (what Moog required) while the jack was under the lca creating a load. The pin failed and the nut shot off of the ball joint. Not sure what caused it since the replacement Moog has been on for close to 2 years and it was installed the exact same way. On top of that, all of my boots are leaking.

This was 5/2020. All boxes said made in Taiwan. Parts came from Advance and Rock Auto.
 

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WhiteUCF

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The question is why the threads failed.
Not having the nut tight would be the simple answer. Then again, over tight would stretch the threads and be just as much of a failure point when the suspension compresses while near full lock. Neither were the case. OD of the shank too narrow allowing excess movement in the spindle? Ball joint looked the same with my eyes. Might not have been though. Seemed tight but I can't move the wheel enough with full weight like it would be in the real world. I do have a micrometer and the failed ball joint. I don't have a new or uninstalled ball joint for comparison. Plus, I was a bit mad at the time but I've had almost 2 years to cool off. I might revisit this issue.
 

Schurkey

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Normally, a loose nut or an incorrect taper will BREAK the stud just under the nut, on the threaded section.

Unfortunately common.

Having the nut come off the stud without breaking it is new to me.
 

WhiteUCF

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Normally, a loose nut or an incorrect taper will BREAK the stud just under the nut, on the threaded section.

Unfortunately common.

Having the nut come off the stud without breaking it is new to me.
I've seen broken ball joints too many times from them being loose. On plenty of GM trucks and at the track. Never seen one shoot the nut off. That's why I posted it. Wasn't sure if that was something normal with Moog. Especially on these trucks.

My initial presumption was that it was just a poorly machined thread, either on the ball joint or the provided nut. Maybe there was enough threading for the two to stick together but not enough for it to hold under stress? The box did say Taiwan. Judging by that, it could've been anything. I could've gotten the 1 in 100 million ball joints that fail. I have that luck.
That's why this specific thread was intriguing. I'm looking for the best parts so I can fully trust my truck again. Now there's always that thought in the back of my mind. I let a buddy borrow my truck for the past 8 months and would periodically check the nuts. Nothing has loosened, no play in ball joints. I just went over the whole front end 2 weeks ago while swapping out the gear box. Everything is great. I'm still wanting to replace all of it since the boots leak. I don't want to have to bust out the grease gun every week just to keep the truck functioning.
 
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