Which body drop method?

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Joined
Nov 6, 2010
Messages
2,531
Reaction score
121
Location
south Georgia
I know this is a very controversial question..

Stock floor i believe would be the best, but would i have to relocate the gas tank? And id still have to raise the tranny hump,and lower cab mounts..

Channeling second best, id have to raise the tank hump, and the tranny hump, and lower the cab mounts, and cover the frame (channel).. << this may be the quickest rout im thinking...?

traditional, cut the whole damn floor out and lower the cab and reweld it all back with fillers along door area and still raise tranny hump.. Allot of tedious welding and time. (and in my opinion not the most structurally sound)

Which would be the most doable in the shortest time? This is a daily driver and id have to take a vacation to do this.. Any and all input would be greatly appreciated :)
 

DRAGGIN95

Warranty Killer!
Super Moderator
Joined
Dec 5, 2009
Messages
9,977
Reaction score
317
Location
Antioch Arkansas
Stock floor all the way, once that floor is cut, it's cut forever, and I don't think it will be be too bad. Also if it were me, I would measure the available space that you will have after the BD for the gas tank and then find a factory type tank that will fit like maybe an s-10 tank or something like that, and that would save a ton of money vs. a custom fuel cell. I dislike a traditional BD because of higher floor to pedal distance and less leg room, just everything about it. If I bag my dually it will be getting a stock floor. Any way that's my 2 cent's.
 
Joined
Nov 6, 2010
Messages
2,531
Reaction score
121
Location
south Georgia
Being that its just a reg cab, do you think it can be pulled off in say a week? id strip the interior before hand.. So id have to remove front fenders and hood (maybe an hour tops).. unbolt cab mounts and steering column, and brake booster? (2-3 hours) lift cab (gonna be a bish)... Then make the inner frame, tack it on top, fully weld bottom.then cut off top and fully weld it, and section front and rear frame into the box.. A good day or two im guessing? then lower cab mounts, maybe 3 hours? then fab the ends of tranny member to bolt to box.. A few hours of head scratching lol.. section tranny hump, and move gas tank? A good day in itself.. Then bolt all back together.. another good day of fitting ****.. seven days a good time frame if all day every day was about 12 hours of truck each?
 

DRAGGIN95

Warranty Killer!
Super Moderator
Joined
Dec 5, 2009
Messages
9,977
Reaction score
317
Location
Antioch Arkansas
Sound's like you already have a plan, I'd say yeah it can be done in that time. I would also figure a little extra time for BD'ing the bed, that takes a little time, and did you figure in dropping your frame horn's?
 

98crewcab

Newbie
Joined
Jan 9, 2011
Messages
23
Reaction score
3
Location
Sacramento, CA
nice...I just picked up a "beater" so I can do the same to mine. never know what problems I'mma run into. and don't want to have to rush if it takes longer than expected. cant wait for your pics:)

should have thrown in my input........thanks for "edit post" lol

my crewcab has a ridiculously thick frame. cutting 3" out of the top of the frame, adding a piece of 2"X3" 1/4" wall box tubing inside the remaining frame for added strength, moving the body mounts down 4", notching the floor around the gas tank, raising the trans hump 3", lowering the front frame horns 4", getting rid of the fan for some electric fans (belt driven wont work with shroud any way), shortening the steering column, removing front fenderwells, moving ecu to inside truck under dash, body dropping bed,.........think thats pretty much it. think I can hide the raised trans hump with a custom fiberglass center console.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Nov 6, 2010
Messages
2,531
Reaction score
121
Location
south Georgia
On the frame horns id cut the frame just infront of steering box (weld a piece of steel across horns to keep em aligned first) , lower them down the amount of needed drop, weld them back.. and on top and bottom curve some 3/16 and box it in so it looks somewhat factory.. but i can ride without fenders and do it later if i had to and use some angle iron from firewall to rad. support to hold it up (ghetto fab :) ...) And the bed.. well it can wait, it aint on anyways lol...
 
Joined
Nov 6, 2010
Messages
2,531
Reaction score
121
Location
south Georgia
I may just go ahead an get a mini for a beater (and later project) lol... Ive been searching the body drop stuff since i first started on the truck.. I know most of what to expect.. firewall clearance to tire, wire harness move up and over, need electric fans.. allot of small things that all add up to a major pain..lol
 
Top