What should I add in during a rebuild?

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Pro439

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The cylinder heads will definitely limit the engine and finding them for this type of build is getting harder. I ended up getting small port bowtie heads with the dual bolt pattern as I was going to need valves guides, cut for seals and springs it was just cheaper to get these but they are discontinued so once there gone that’s it. Dart, Airflow Research both make small port heads but they’re more of a stock replacement. For the money heads would make the biggest difference
 

351FUN

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The cylinder heads will definitely limit the engine and finding them for this type of build is getting harder. I ended up getting small port bowtie heads with the dual bolt pattern as I was going to need valves guides, cut for seals and springs it was just cheaper to get these but they are discontinued so once there gone that’s it. Dart, Airflow Research both make small port heads but they’re more of a stock replacement. For the money heads would make the biggest difference

If for some reason the original heads are not usable I'm 100% upgrading, I wouldn't spend a penny on buying more tbi heads. I'm also rethinking my budget some, I've decided to sell my daily because the cost to fun ratio just isn't there. I can get trick flow heads for what the Q60 costs per month lmao. It's stupid fast but doesn't have the soul older vehicles do, and I wasn't the one who made it fast so I don't have any connection to it.

I ordered the ebl this morning so I'm commited to that. It's 1/4 the price I'm used to for tuning and the benefits seem immense. Tomorrow the shop will have some estimates for me and I'll be able to go from there regarding strokers and all that.
 

351FUN

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"Punching" refers to bore *********** enlarge_ment embiggening. The "383" uses the semi-standard .030 cleanup on a 4" bore.

The big deal with 383s is the stroke.

REALLY? "ENLARGE_MENT" IS CENSORED? WHAT MORON DECIDED THAT?


Not "usually" replaced. Sometimes reinstalled with mere cleaning, sometimes polished, sometimes re-ground depending on the amount of wear. Replaced only if there's significant wear, outright damage...or someone wants to have more fun than the original crank provides.

IF (big IF) you're intending on a custom computer tune anyway, there's little reason to NOT add some stroke. More displacement makes more torque, and additional horsepower. Adding stroke tends to make that power lower in the RPM range, which is fairly wonderful in a pickup or other truck. Of course, the powerband is also affected by port/valve size, and cam grind.
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PlayingWithTBI

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If for some reason the original heads are not usable I'm 100% upgrading, I wouldn't spend a penny on buying more tbi heads. I'm also rethinking my budget some, I've decided to sell my daily because the cost to fun ratio just isn't there. I can get trick flow heads for what the Q60 costs per month lmao. It's stupid fast but doesn't have the soul older vehicles do, and I wasn't the one who made it fast so I don't have any connection to it.

I ordered the ebl this morning so I'm commited to that. It's 1/4 the price I'm used to for tuning and the benefits seem immense. Tomorrow the shop will have some estimates for me and I'll be able to go from there regarding strokers and all that.
I'm in the process of building the Blue Print 377 (4.000" bore X 3.75" stroke) short block, with the Comp Cams XE282HR (or equivalent specs) that came with it.

I'm using the Summit Racing TBI heads (giving me 10.3:1 compression), a 46mm bored TB and have the EBL (had it for over 4 years now). According to Blue Print their short block will make 436 HP/443Ft Lbs with their heads, 1.6 rockers, and a 750CFM carb so, I'm not expecting that much but, will have fun tuning it and may go to a 50mm TB from a 7.4, who knows?

Motor Trend put this cam in an HT383 and came up with these numbers:
Peak HP: 455.3 @ 5,600
Peak Torque: 493.0 @ 4,200
Average HP 2,500-4,800: 327.4

Average Torque 2,500-4,800: 467.7
Average HP 4,000-5,700: 427.4
Average Torque 4,000-5,700: 465.3
Torque at 2,500: 426.3

Enjoy your EBL and build! :waytogo:
 

351FUN

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Blueprint makes fantastic quality engines, I have their 306 in my F250 and it screams.
 

Erik the Awful

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It's also most likely keeping the awful tbi heads too which will limit it regardless.
If you keep the TBI heads, do a cleanup port job on them. The machining's pretty terrible and they need some work. Do not remove the swirl ramps, just clean them up. Stick with a low-rpm cam and pick up as much torque as you can, because horsepower's not really on the table. Somebody may jump in and nerd-rage against me for saying that, but in the end the conclusion is the same, don't build for high rpm.
 

Pro439

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You really can’t cam a daily driver to run 6500 + rpm and keep it a daily driver. That being said dictates how much cam you can use. For the street and a daily driver I wouldn’t go more than 280 advertised duration on a hydraulic roller and .480-.500 lift. More than that you lose to much regular driveability. But no matter what cam you use you will benefit from better cylinder heads even small port heads and by that I mean slightly bigger than stock. The ports can end up slightly bigger but flow much better to be able to keep the hp and torque numbers up say from 5500 down to 1800 - 2300 right where you’ll do the majority of driving and that’s where putting a stroker crank and the right rods and pistons come in. So in cylinder heads everybody talks about flow and how many cc’s the ports are but in the real world you need so much velocity (air flow) for a given rpm and the ability to maintain that velocity. Cylinder heads with the big ports don’t make any power under say 5000 rpm and have to run 7-9000 rpm to get the heads where they will maintain the velocity. This is why a lot of guys like the vortec heads because they do this the major downside is the deck is thin and they tend to crack the other major issue is the intake bolt pattern is different so unless you get a set with the dual bolt pattern you can only use the vortec intake. I believe dart makes a set that is the dual bolt pattern and Edelbrock makes 2 different sets all depends on your budget
 

351FUN

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You really can’t cam a daily driver to run 6500 + rpm and keep it a daily driver. That being said dictates how much cam you can use. For the street and a daily driver I wouldn’t go more than 280 advertised duration on a hydraulic roller and .480-.500 lift. More than that you lose to much regular driveability. But no matter what cam you use you will benefit from better cylinder heads even small port heads and by that I mean slightly bigger than stock. The ports can end up slightly bigger but flow much better to be able to keep the hp and torque numbers up say from 5500 down to 1800 - 2300 right where you’ll do the majority of driving and that’s where putting a stroker crank and the right rods and pistons come in. So in cylinder heads everybody talks about flow and how many cc’s the ports are but in the real world you need so much velocity (air flow) for a given rpm and the ability to maintain that velocity. Cylinder heads with the big ports don’t make any power under say 5000 rpm and have to run 7-9000 rpm to get the heads where they will maintain the velocity. This is why a lot of guys like the vortec heads because they do this the major downside is the deck is thin and they tend to crack the other major issue is the intake bolt pattern is different so unless you get a set with the dual bolt pattern you can only use the vortec intake. I believe dart makes a set that is the dual bolt pattern and Edelbrock makes 2 different sets all depends on your budget

Keep in mind the transmission shifts at 4500, anything above that I'll never see and I'm not at all interested in opening up that transmission to change that when it works fine right now. That's why I said in the first post that the cam will not be aggressive, this is a low RPM build. My daily doesn't start to make power until 3500 and screams up to 7500, I don't want to have to spin the blazer up like that.
 

PlayingWithTBI

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Keep in mind the transmission shifts at 4500, anything above that I'll never see and I'm not at all interested in opening up that transmission to change that when it works fine right now
It's a simple weight/spring change in the governor, maybe a 15 minute job, no fluid loss doing it either. I raised my shift point from 4500 to 5000 with my Lunati Voodoo flat tappet cam, gained quite a bit in 0-60 and 1/4 mile times. I'll probably go up even higher with my new setup.
 

shovelbill

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"Punching" refers to bore *********** enlarge_ment embiggening. The "383" uses the semi-standard .030 cleanup on a 4" bore.

The big deal with 383s is the stroke.

REALLY? "ENLARGE_MENT" IS CENSORED? WHAT MORON DECIDED THAT?


Not "usually" replaced. Sometimes reinstalled with mere cleaning, sometimes polished, sometimes re-ground depending on the amount of wear. Replaced only if there's significant wear, outright damage...or someone wants to have more fun than the original crank provides.

IF (big IF) you're intending on a custom computer tune anyway, there's little reason to NOT add some stroke. More displacement makes more torque, and additional horsepower. Adding stroke tends to make that power lower in the RPM range, which is fairly wonderful in a pickup or other truck. Of course, the powerband is also affected by port/valve size, and cam grind.
I'm surely not laughing at your post....just the 'moron' part. Certain words can be reported and taken off the idiotic censor list. A moderator can help...

df2x4

kennythewelder

 
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