TPS and Tranny cant get along under load!

[Pinger]

I think what you should try is move the cable end into a hole nearer the TPS's pivot (to increase its range relative to pedal/cable travel) then adjust the cable length to get 0.6V at idle position. Try WOT and see what the voltage is there.
Keep shifting the cable end mounting hole until you get 5V at WOT while retaining 0.6V at idle position.

 

[TacosnBeer]

I think what you should try is move the cable end into a hole nearer the TPS's pivot (to increase its range relative to pedal/cable travel) then adjust the cable length to get 0.6V at idle position. Try WOT and see what the voltage is there.
Keep shifting the cable end mounting hole until you get 5V at WOT while retaining 0.6V at idle position.

I will give that a try after work today. You think closer to the center is better? I would think you would get more range further from center?

 

[Pinger]

I will give that a try after work today. You think closer to the center is better? I would think you would get more range further from center?

For the same linear cable travel, there will be more rotation at the TPS (big wheel driving little wheel in gearing terms) as you move toward its centre and reduce its radius which is what I think you need as when you had around 0.6V at idle you were only getting 3-4V at WOT IIRC.

Getting the min and max sorted is the first step. After that mimicking exactly what the throttle shaft is doing can be looked at.

Is the slack in the TPS taken up with an adjustor or by rotating the TPS on its mount?

 

[TacosnBeer]

For the same linear cable travel, there will be more rotation at the TPS (big wheel driving little wheel in gearing terms) as you move toward its centre and reduce its radius which is what I think you need as when you had around 0.6V at idle you were only getting 3-4V at WOT IIRC.

Getting the min and max sorted is the first step. After that mimicking exactly what the throttle shaft is doing can be looked at.

Is the slack in the TPS taken up with an adjustor or by rotating the TPS on its mount?

That makes sense. There is no slack in it right now. It has a bit of tension on it. I will loosen the carb end... then move the TPS end to the center... after that reset a snug fit (slack) on the carb side and test from there.

 

[TacosnBeer]

The three adjustment points are

the rotation of the TPS
the mounting point on the lever
the length of cable (slide lock) at carb end

 

[Pinger]

With adjustment is on the cable outer then the TPS can be rotated to alter the relationship between it and the throttle shaft as over the travel of the cable the TPS rotation won't be linear as merely an arm.
Either side of the mid position it will different and rotating the TPS body on its mount will move the midpoint. It should be possible to fine tune this to exactly what you want. Getting the min and max right first though is crucial.

 

[TacosnBeer]

With adjustment is on the cable outer then the TPS can be rotated to alter the relationship between it and the throttle shaft as over the travel of the cable the TPS rotation won't be linear as merely an arm.
Either side of the mid position it will different and rotating the TPS body on its mount will move the midpoint. It should be possible to fine tune this to exactly what you want. Getting the min and max right first though is crucial.

I see what you are saying now... I will start at the midpoint on the rotation of the TPS and mount location of the arm and test the voltage readings from there, then adjust as needed to reach .6-5v range. This helps so much. So many variables to account for.

 

[Pinger]

Shift holes as discussed and I'll pick it up with you tomorrow. (You'll be doing this while I'm asleep given the time difference to UK).

 

[TacosnBeer]

Going out to play with it now... thank you so much!!! I greatly appreciate the sage advice.

 

[Pinger]

We'll call it sage when it works. Until then.....