The Stupid Lowered Questions Thread

[codogl1]

I originally ran a belltech 4" drop in my K3500 which also stated wasn't compatible with a K series, everything bolted up fine. Keep in mind if you eventually plan to do a flip kit you will have to install original front leaf spring mounts and shackles.

Was that belltech 4" drop you ran a flip kit? And yes, if I do install a flip kit I'll revert back to original shackles. thanks for the reply!

 

[95burban]

Yes you can do a flip and add 1in lift shackles to bring it back up

 

[618 Syndicate]

Thanks for the reply! The shackles stated it provided 2" drop but I took before/after measurements and it dropped almost 1". Indeed I definitely do not want to squat the truck. If I do install the flip and the drop is too much, putting the original shackles or even 1" lift shackles can level it out?

As mentioned, yes, you can flip it and then raise it with lift shackles. A flip is easier than hangers, that's always what I advise.

 

[QLONA]

Was that belltech 4" drop you ran a flip kit? And yes, if I do install a flip kit I'll revert back to original shackles. thanks for the reply!

No, that kit came with new Front leaf spring mounts that are relocated higher on the frame and a set of drop shackles.

 

[618 Syndicate]

No, that kit came with new Front leaf spring mounts that are relocated higher on the frame and a set of drop shackles.

The leaf spring mounts are what most of us are referring to as hangers.

 

[Drunkcanuk]

Going to be dropping my 91 c1500 this weekend with a Belltech 4/6 kit. I am replacing all my control arms with NAPA "premium" ones. Do I have to or should I take the "knockouts" out before I install them, or it that something the shop who will eventually align it do?
And if it's something I should do, how do I do it? Or is it something so obvious, I haven't picked them up yet.

Edit... nevermind, I figured it out in less time than it took to post this!!! Pardon my ignorance!!! Lol

 

[someotherguy]

Going to be dropping my 91 c1500 this weekend with a Belltech 4/6 kit. I am replacing all my control arms with NAPA "premium" ones. Do I have to or should I take the "knockouts" out before I install them, or it that something the shop who will eventually align it do?
And if it's something I should do, how do I do it? Or is it something so obvious, I haven't picked them up yet.

Edit... nevermind, I figured it out in less time than it took to post this!!! Pardon my ignorance!!! Lol

The knockouts are in your frame, not the control arms. They're in the pockets for the upper control arm. Some just go at 'em with an air hammer w/chisel bit, but there's also a fairly inexpensive tool for driving them out. I strongly recommend you do it yourself before installing the control arms. Because otherwise, the control arms have to be removed to knock 'em out, increasing labor cost at the alignment shop significantly.

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Edit - I had to laugh as I read through the first part of your post and responded, before I noticed you had figured it out. Anyway the reply should hopefully help others with the same question.

Richard

 

[Drunkcanuk]

So with trimming the lower control arms, the Belltech picture is less than useless. I did try searching for an answer but came up short.
1st- do both sides need trimming?
2nd- how much do you cut, length wise?
Cut a few inches, 1/2 the length, the entire way?

 

[someotherguy]

So with trimming the lower control arms, the Belltech picture is less than useless. I did try searching for an answer but came up short.
1st- do both sides need trimming?
2nd- how much do you cut, length wise?
Cut a few inches, 1/2 the length, the entire way?

Both sides, lowers only, and as little as possible. Test-fitting your wheel will help determine what needs to be cut. The need for cutting is because you've raised the hub centerline position of the wheel in relation to the spindle, so the wheel hoop (on small wheels, 15's) can hit the lower control arm.

Richard

 

[Drunkcanuk]

Both sides, lowers only, and as little as possible. Test-fitting your wheel will help determine what needs to be cut. The need for cutting is because you've raised the hub centerline position of the wheel in relation to the spindle, so the wheel hoop (on small wheels, 15's) can hit the lower control arm.

Richard

Ya ...I trimmed about 3" off each side. Wasn't sure if there was a definitive measurement. There was some "bad noises" when I pulled the truck out on the street to turn it around for the rear end job. But I don't have the UCA's tight, just snug for now. I will put it down on 6x6 blocks and see what clearance I have when I'm done the rear flip. And definitely tighten up the UCA's ..the alignment guy can fight them to align them.