The Stupid Lowered Questions Thread

[bigrog123]

Do you mean helper bags?

Not sure. I want to be able to drop it more, like yours. Like I said it's at a 5/8 drop right now, would I have to get a whole new suspension kit to do that???

 

[618 Syndicate]

Not sure. I want to be able to drop it more, like yours. Like I said it's at a 5/8 drop right now, would I have to get a whole new suspension kit to do that???

Short version? Yes.
Helper bags "help" your springs carry weight. A truck with lowering springs (like yours) is called a static drop. My truck is bagged, which requires replacing the springs with air bags. You inflate the bags to lift the truck, deflate to lower it. You would need to redo the rear suspension with a 2, 3, or 4 link, and put cups in your control arms up front. Then you need to buy bags, shocks, airline, gauges, compressor(s), valves, switches, and a manifold.

You can go lower with a static drop like what you have, but driveability becomes an issue much lower than where you are now. Stuff starts dragging the ground. An inch or 2 f/r probably wont hurt, but you may have to relocate the gas tank.

 

[bigrog123]

Short version? Yes.
Helper bags "help" your springs carry weight. A truck with lowering springs (like yours) is called a static drop. My truck is bagged, which requires replacing the springs with air bags. You inflate the bags to lift the truck, deflate to lower it. You would need to redo the rear suspension with a 2, 3, or 4 link, and put cups in your control arms up front. Then you need to buy bags, shocks, airline, gauges, compressor(s), valves, switches, and a manifold.

You can go lower with a static drop like what you have, but driveability becomes an issue much lower than where you are now. Stuff starts dragging the ground. An inch or 2 f/r probably wont hurt, but you may have to relocate the gas tank.

Thanks a lot for answering that Lol i couldnt find the answer on google

 

[Menissalt]

So I'm just starting the process of getting my 89 C1500 2WD fixed up. Ultimate end goal is to put down around 500hp with lots of low end torque ideal for daily driving and road trips but would also be fun on a track, won't win any competitions though. Not looking to lower it much, just enough so that my tires fit the wells and have roughly the same space all around.


My goal right now is to get it going as a daily driver for as little as I can now without wasting money by buying junk or overspending on something now that will be replaced later.

All that out of the way. One of the two areas I'm willing to put more money into it right now is suspension. I figure buy once cry once is the ideal way to go for suspension but I'm no expert. A local builder is suggesting I avoid coilovers because I'd likely hate the way they ride, so now I'm here.

Coilover yay or nay for my use case?
Should I just slap on a set of roadmasters and only replace any worn parts of my suspension?

 

[618 Syndicate]

A 2/4 drop will give you the stance you're looking for, but coilovers will make it go round a track better.
It's's gonna be a bit stiffer ride either way.

 

[Frank Enstein]

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Howdy, recently got in the obs scene. Just have a few questions. so I have it lowered 3in springs up front and flipped in the rear. Will eventually get the c notch. Currently on stock rally wheels 15in, what’s the biggest wheel and widest I can run before doing any other mod.

Will these wheels and tires fit my vehicle?

help.summitracing.com

The pdf at the bottom is a worksheet you can use to answer your question.

 

[Erik the Awful]

...for daily driving and road trips but would also be fun on a track... Not looking to lower it much, just enough so that my tires fit the wells and have roughly the same space all around... get it going as a daily driver... A local builder is suggesting I avoid coilovers because I'd likely hate the way they ride, so now I'm here.

What do YOU want from the ride? I daily a lowered Mustang with a stiff suspension, but I appreciate the softer ride my truck has, and that I don't have to dodge bumps.

A stiff suspension means more rattles.

A stiff suspension means trips across town will wear you out.

A stiff suspension also means more wear on the suspension mounts. A year or so ago I had to weld a hardened washer over one of the control arm mounting holes on my Mustang to eliminate some dynamic toe change.

If you just want some fun and want to be able to raise it up a bit if you need to, I'd airbag it. If you want to autocross competitively and try some HPDEs, I'd go with coilovers.

Tires are another consideration. If you're running 15s, a coilover suspension won't be intolerable. If you're running 22s, airbag it.

 

[sewlow]

A 2/4 drop will give you the stance you're looking for, but coilovers will make it go round a track better.
It's's gonna be a bit stiffer ride either way.

My '97 @ 2/4 didn't ride any firmer than stock.
Spindles use original length shocks with original springs.
Hangers & shackles in the rear.
Rear = stock 'style' (compression/rebound) 2" shorter shocks.
All that that suspension stuff did was move the wheels up into the body a bit. Nothing done to the springs.

The vehicle is suspended by the springs.
Shocks control the springs action/reaction.
With the stock springs all round, the suspension only became firmer after the addition of some proper performance-oriented shocks actually designed for lowered vehicles.

 

[sewlow]

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Howdy, recently got in the obs scene. Just have a few questions. so I have it lowered 3in springs up front and flipped in the rear. Will eventually get the c notch. Currently on stock rally wheels 15in, what’s the biggest wheel and widest I can run before doing any other mod.

A flip with no notch.
Ouch.
Kidney belt & a mouth guard required!
Don't forget to notch the box cross member when you do the 'C'.

On my '98, @ 4/7, I have a 295/40-20 (10") on the rear. No prob. (Check the el-crappo pic.)
There are 400's @ 2/4 running 315/35-20's.
Those look to be a tight fit, but as the tires don't tuck at that height, I'm not too sure if they would clear stuff @ 6". Although, the (average) difference in width is only .8". 11.6">12.4".
That measurement can vary somewhat slightly between manufacturers.
A lot depends on the wheel's off-set. If you can get that right in order for the tire's sidewall to be at least 3/8" away from the spring, that off-set may put the tires into the fender lip. I'd say the lips would definitely need to be rolled. I did mine, but I didn't really need to.
I have seen some trucks with the inner sidewall 1/4" away from the spring. A little tight for my liking. May be acceptable for a weekend ride. On a daily? Mmmm...

On the front, I've got 255/45-20's. A tad shorter than the rears.
699 revolutions per mile compared to the rears turning 695.
1.5" narrower.
The fender lips did need to be rolled.

Those sizes are so very close to the original 235/75-15's in height, they won't mess with your speedo.

With 315's, a matching front size (height) would be a 245/45.
The 255's are taller than the 315's. That'd look kinda funky-weird.

One more thing...get these. Belltech #6658. They're listed as 'extensions' but they're actually a relocation kit. They really help. Use them in addition to the lower extensions.

Throw on a rear sway bar. Lots of info on those here on the forum.

Then...urethane body & suspension kit.

500hp? Cal Tracs!

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[Menissalt]

What do YOU want from the ride?

Like I mentioned, I want to be able to take road trips so ride quality (comfort) is important. Both the handling and ride quality of these trucks are bad and I'm looking to improve both for a GT style ride. More comfortable than average but also can perform well on a track but not at a competitive level. I'll never run bags, I don't have any need for them.