The Stupid Interior Questions Thread

[1badgmc]

Thanks 1badgmc. Now, in response to #2, Will that risk/undermine structural rigidity, strength, or safety?

No.

And #5, Mine are the barn doors. Will I need to drill anything to place mounts for the hatchback? I would have to remove the existing hinges since they are designed to open horizontal, not vertical. And would I have to run any wires or anything on the dash switch (turn signal) for the rear wiper?

You're going to need everything. I can't tell you all the little differences in how the 2 systems mount up, but you'll need all the hardware, hinges, wiring, everything.

 

[ThatDrummerGuy95]

No.



You're going to need everything. I can't tell you all the little differences in how the 2 systems mount up, but you'll need all the hardware, hinges, wiring, everything.

Thanks man, I decided I was just gonna keep the barn doors. I can live, it's not worth the hassle. Ill probably be doing the seats soon though.

 

[1badgmc]

If I ever had the money, I'd have a hybrid of the 2 made and turn my Suburban into dutch doors like you can get on the Astro and Safari vans. Get the glass hatch from a tailgate setup and cut the top off of the barn doors. That way you would have the clear rear view of the hatch combined with the shorter reach-in depth of the barn doors.

 

[sewlow]

If I ever had the money, I'd have a hybrid of the 2 made and turn my Suburban into dutch doors like you can get on the Astro and Safari vans. Get the glass hatch from a tailgate setup and cut the top off of the barn doors. That way you would have the clear rear view of the hatch combined with the shorter reach-in depth of the barn doors.

Wasn't that an option on some Tahoe/Suburbans? IDK.

 

[1badgmc]

Wasn't that an option on some Tahoe/Suburbans? IDK.

Nope. You could have barn doors or the hatch/gate.

Square bodies could be had with barn doors or the tailgate/roll-down window.
GMT-800s could be had with the barn doors or the more common full hatch.
GMC-900s have the full hatch.

 

[ThatDrummerGuy95]

If I ever had the money, I'd have a hybrid of the 2 made and turn my Suburban into dutch doors like you can get on the Astro and Safari vans. Get the glass hatch from a tailgate setup and cut the top off of the barn doors. That way you would have the clear rear view of the hatch combined with the shorter reach-in depth of the barn doors.

I wonder if you could do that and still have the rear wiper functionality. Now THAT would be trick.

 

[1badgmc]

I wonder if you could do that and still have the rear wiper functionality. Now THAT would be trick.

Since the wiper is completely mounted to the hatch glass, there's no reason you couldn't.

 

[JJZ71]

I have a 60/40 seat out of a '95 that will not slide (passenger side) forward without a lot of "drag". I sprayed the rails with WD40 and it seem to help a little. I also found a cable on the seat that is not connected, maybe this is my issue??? The cable is on the side of the seat (just inside the door) and looks like the cable used to pop the hood. Anyone know how this should be hooked up or better yet got a picture of this done the right way?
Driver seat - has an "entry" lever half way up the seat that pulls forward but the back of the seat will not tip forward, seat will slide without an issue. Seat also will not lean back by using the other lever. Any ideas on this one guys?

 

[JJZ71]

Bump...

 

[sewlow]

Bump...

I've messed with those cables before, but I just can't pull an answer off the top of my head for you. Seems to me that you are going to have to pull the seat and get it onto a bench, & then pull the cover on the cushion up on the side where the cable is. That cable will go from the backrest to inside the cushion and the mechanism in there. Not sure where it will connect, but it should be kinda obvious once you get that cover up to expose the workings inside there. IIRC, it does have something to do with how the seat goes back & forth. I believe that there is a small connection on the end of that cable in a lazy 'S' shape. It should clip in somewhere on the cushion mechanism. Might even have a clip in there to hold the cable in the right position.

Tip. Take the bolts out of the front of the tracks first, where they bolt into the floor, then slide the seat forward to get at the back ones. This will help the seat to stay upright on the bench. If you do the back floor bolts first, the seat will want to fall over backwards, when it's on the bench. Then when you hit the release, those tracks will FLY backwards at finger removing speed! I still have all my digits, but you'll only do that once! How DO I know this? Hmmm...