The Stupid Engine Questions Thread

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Frank Enstein

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Big blocks often have high oil consumption. One quart/600 miles isn't unheard of.

If the PCV valve is compromised oil consumption will go up significantly.

If you go through it I never recommend a re-ring kit.
By the time you need rings, the ring grooves in the pistons are usually too wide to be reused.

More than .002" bore taper get the block bored.
With bore taper the rings and ring lands of the piston will wear quickly.

I feel the Hastings brand oil control rings are best.

I won't build am engine without Total Seal Rings. TSR uses Hastings style oil control rings.

My Firebird engine is a whopping 9.14:1 compression and with the Total Seal Rings. It cannot be rotated by hand.
It turns easily enough, but when you try to ratchet it back, it pushes the wrench back to where you started!
 

jeff1953

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ok cool thank you, now I have a better problem in a 1999 5.7 350 vortex has a knocking noise when revved up over 1800 rpm's and does make any noise at idle or up to 1800 rpm's and the answer i have thought is the cam bearings is that an off thought of mine sense I replaced the main and rod bearings and did not check the cam.
 

1952Chevy

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Does anyone know where to get/what size I need for a water pump bypass nipple. It's for a 7.4l Vortec.

I got a new water pump, and it did not come with a bypass nipple. I attempted to remove the old one with no luck. I have searched for a replacement and can't seem to find the part. I assume I could use a generic part, but need the right size/thread for it. TIA
 

1952Chevy

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Does anyone know where to get/what size I need for a water pump bypass nipple. It's for a 7.4l Vortec.

I got a new water pump, and it did not come with a bypass nipple. I attempted to remove the old one with no luck. I have searched for a replacement and can't seem to find the part. I assume I could use a generic part, but need the right size/thread for it. TIA
I found it. It's Doorman part# 56360 1/2" NPT x 3/4 Barb
 

Zseventy-one

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Does anyone know what the wiring harness is called on the drivers side firewall? Can't find it on rock auto and tired of playing battleship with Google and eBay.
Looks like the horn and head light wires run through it. I'm assuming the convince center/fuses are on the opposite side under the dash.
Closest thing on Google that I've found is a bulkhead connector but cant find a replacement for a 91 k1500 tbi 350.
Below is what it looks like in its current condition...
 

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FrankieD61

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Is it necessary to use zinc additive I'm my Goodwrench 350? The motor is from 91-ish.
 

steveed

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Does anyone know what the wiring harness is called on the drivers side firewall? Can't find it on rock auto and tired of playing battleship with Google and eBay.
Looks like the horn and head light wires run through it. I'm assuming the convince center/fuses are on the opposite side under the dash.
Closest thing on Google that I've found is a bulkhead connector but cant find a replacement for a 91 k1500 tbi 350.
Below is what it looks like in its current condition...
I think the only option for that wiring harness is your local pick and pull. The wiring digram manual for my 92 says it is C102 the connector itself is #12020100. https://www.connectorpeople.com/Connector/DELPHI-PACKARD/1/12020100
 

ben2go

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Is it necessary to use zinc additive I'm my Goodwrench 350? The motor is from 91-ish.
No. We use standard Castrol 5w-30 as recommended by the oner's manual. If you gave a fresh rebuild, I break them in using 15w40 Rotella diesel engine oil. They have all the good stuff an engine needs to break in.
 

Frank Enstein

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No. We use standard Castrol 5w-30 as recommended by the oner's manual. If you gave a fresh rebuild, I break them in using 15w40 Rotella diesel engine oil. They have all the good stuff an engine needs to break in.
Don't agree. The Rotella T hasn't had the higher zinc since 2007 or 2008 from my sources.

Use whatever brand and viscosity you deem appropriate.

I recommend contacting the oil manufacturer and asking them "What oil is o.k. for my PERFORMANCE FLAT TAPPET CAM".

A factory 91 cam with 91 springs is probably fine with the new oils but it's a horrible mess if it eats the cam.

Oil is cheap.
 
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