The Stupid Electronics Questions Thread

[Mean Green]

Ok that must be the single one wire connector that goes to the transmission. So when you shift that column down.. it grounds that out correct?

Correct, the wire for the reverse lights is a ground. So keep that in mind if using a test light! Remember to supply the gator clip on the test light with 12V+. A multimeter is the better route to go, but a test light is easier sometimes under the dash.

 

[2003Xtreme]

the one wire on the column is the one that goes to the reverse lights btw.. not the transmission haha not sure what I was thinking lol. I want to put my floor shifter in there, but I will lose my drink holder.. I have the one that mounts to the underside of the dash, but it is in the way of my aftermarket cd player.. sighs.. lol

 

[banana cognac]

Last night when I got home, I turned off the radio in my '89 C3500. This morning when I hopped in to go to work, the stereo wouldn't turn on. It is the stock stereo with stock speakers, and up until this point it always turned on/off on command. Anyone have any ideas of how I could get it to turn back on and never be shut off again?

 

[PossumJr]

It could be in the radio, but I had a problem with mine that I think was the same as yours and fixed it by disconnecting a battery lead for 20 or so seconds and letting everything reset.

 

[PossumJr]

I installed a cb radio in my truck and used the the fuse block or whatever the part with all the tabs on is called, and it worked but not when I turned the lights on my truck on. I measured the voltage and it seemed like it was getting voltage but reversed, which might explain so many blown fuses?. So then I spliced power off the cigarette lighter and checked with the meter to see if it got power with the lights on and it did, but the radio still wont turn on while the lights are on, is there something I'm missing?

 

[Mean Green]

I installed a cb radio in my truck and used the the fuse block or whatever the part with all the tabs on is called, and it worked but not when I turned the lights on my truck on. I measured the voltage and it seemed like it was getting voltage but reversed, which might explain so many blown fuses?. So then I spliced power off the cigarette lighter and checked with the meter to see if it got power with the lights on and it did, but the radio still wont turn on while the lights are on, is there something I'm missing?

Are you talking about interior lights or headlights? Or both? I would recommend that you go back to the junction block and find a switched 12V+ terminal. The cigarette lighter is an okay power source, but you may pick up static on the CB. It is also VERY important that you find a good bare metal ground for it.

Find a terminal on the junction block that has at least 12 volts WITH your headlights/interior lights on and your key in the ON or ACC position but reads no voltage with the key off.

 

[PossumJr]

I checked all the terminals, but none got power both ways with lights on or off and the truck running, and wouldn't a terminal that switches when lights are on damage the radio, mine's from the late 70's so thats why I ask. Sorry for my ignorance about this.

 

[Mean Green]

From the bottom left hand side of the interior junction block, on the bottom row count 4 terminals over to the right and then 2 terminals up (might be labled: green). That terminal SHOULD only be hot when the key is in the ON or ACC postion. The lights should NOT have any bearing on whether or not the terminal is switched. Keep in mind that the terminals on the junction block are NOT fused, so be sure to add a fuse if you haven't already. When your testing with your multimeter or test light, make sure that your grounding to a bare metal ground and not a ground terminal etc. Try that and see if you can find that terminal that is switched with the key, there ARE a few terminals in that junction block that are switched with the key.

If your using a multimeter, it should read as follows regardless if the lights are on or not:

Key in the ON position: 12V+
Key in the START postion: 0V
Key in the ACC position: 12V+
Key in the off position: 0V

 

[PossumJr]

I finally got one, I kept using the ground in the junction box and not a bare metal ground which I guess was my problem. Thanks for bearing with me on this.

 

[Mean Green]

I finally got one, I kept using the ground in the junction box and not a bare metal ground which I guess was my problem. Thanks for bearing with me on this.

Good deal! Glad you got it figured out man!!