Steering gear box replacement questions?

[MrSlick92]

I have a 1992 k1500 with the tbi5.7 I had a really sloppy steering issue so I replaced my old factory gearbox with a remand one (master pro brand) from o’reillys . But my mechanic said the rag joint was warn and rotten also. So we did the rebuild kit on it . Then he tells me the gearbox is sloppy . How common is it to buy a sloppy rebuilt gearbox? I’m going to warranty it out and see if it’s better this time . When I turn the steering shaft the pitman arm doesn’t move until I’ve moved the steering wheel like an inch. But then it starts moving. Any help or info from your personal experiences would be great thanks.

 

[RichLo]

Yea, unfortunately rebuilt usually means repainted and new seals.

Look up 'Redhead' steering boxes. more expensive off the bat but well worth it!

 

[Wilder Motorsports]

Check out Steerco AGR Performance. They are a manufacturer (last left in the USA). They offer off the shelf gearboxes and pumps with no core or exchange! That was important to me because i drive my truck every day. They also have a rebuild service if you want to send it in.

They offer different choices of ratios (turns lock to lock) and valving (you can request what road feel you want). I also like that they machine the sector shaft for 2 load bearing and 2 pressure seals which will hold your steering tighter and smoother. When I checked nobody else offers anything besides a normal rebuild

They are in Texas and the owner drives an OBS truck daily

 

[tinfoil_hat]

Just save yourself time and money and return that O'reilly box. You will exchange those boxes 3-5 times before you get a good one and it might only last two years anyway. Buy the Redhead or the one of the others like the Steerco or the Bluetop or whatever it is called.
As for the ragjoint, the Lares 205 (I think that's the model number) is the best bet. $15 on Rock Auto. Some people complain that the wheel is clocked a few degrees off when using this part but that might actually be the gear box and not the rag joint.
You might also consider doing the pump at this time along with a full bleed. A bad gear can damage your pump and visa versa.

 

[ColoradoMadMan]

Great info! This is the next job i’m Doing when spring shows up here.

 

[Knuckle Dragger]

I've found almost no one adjusts the gear box properly on the remans. I'll bet if you took the time to readjust the box correctly you would be OK with it. There is a lot of bad info on gear box adjustment on the net. It's more than tightening a bolt at the top of the box.

Here is a good link from another site: https://www.gmsquarebody.com/threads/steering-box-adjustments.11794/

 

[Ken K]

Since you already replaced the steering gear box, then replaced/ repaired the rag-joint, I would go one step further before putting another one in it. Adjust the cross-shaft to see if it tightens up the steering. Loosen the nut while holding the screw still, turn the screw in until snug, back off 1/4" turn, then tighten jamb nut. Now, get a buddy and re-check input shaft to pitman arm movement. This adjustment is normal and maybe be include in the installation instructions with the box you have now. Look for other parts that are not moving, but also, there should be no increase effort or "Felt" binding when you turn the steering wheel more that two / three inches from center.
Also, after a turn, check to see if the wheel returns to center with ease. Caster will force the steering wheel to self-center on it's own, if no binding.

If you have a seasoned tech telling you to replace the box with check cross-shaft endplay, they are not doing you right.

They also sell a filter that contains a magnet for the return line if you want to go for the longterm. Low pressure side runs about 8 -10 PSI. Sold by I.D. line size.

Yes, there some "Spray & Pray" parts out there, but start with basics before pulling the credit card out for a $890 quick-ratio box. I couldn't get away with that at the dealership as it would come back to bite me. I would have checked end play before it left the shop of felt it during the test drive before I parked it.

 

[Crookedaxle]

Check out Steerco AGR Performance. They are a manufacturer (last left in the USA). They offer off the shelf gearboxes and pumps with no core or exchange! That was important to me because i drive my truck every day. They also have a rebuild service if you want to send it in.

They offer different choices of ratios (turns lock to lock) and valving (you can request what road feel you want). I also like that they machine the sector shaft for 2 load bearing and 2 pressure seals which will hold your steering tighter and smoother. When I checked nobody else offers anything besides a normal rebuild

They are in Texas and the owner drives an OBS truck daily

Well, their Google Review and Better Business Bureau record doesn't look too hot.

 

[WILWAXU]

Well, their Google Review and Better Business Bureau record doesn't look too hot.

That could be said for each manufacture suggested here. I do see a trend.. mostly Jeep guys

 

[Knuckle Dragger]

Since you already replaced the steering gear box, then replaced/ repaired the rag-joint, I would go one step further before putting another one in it. Adjust the cross-shaft to see if it tightens up the steering. Loosen the nut while holding the screw still, turn the screw in until snug, back off 1/4" turn, then tighten jamb nut. Now, get a buddy and re-check input shaft to pitman arm movement. This adjustment is normal and maybe be include in the installation instructions with the box you have now. Look for other parts that are not moving, but also, there should be no increase effort or "Felt" binding when you turn the steering wheel more that two / three inches from center.
Also, after a turn, check to see if the wheel returns to center with ease. Caster will force the steering wheel to self-center on it's own, if no binding.

If you have a seasoned tech telling you to replace the box with check cross-shaft endplay, they are not doing you right.

They also sell a filter that contains a magnet for the return line if you want to go for the longterm. Low pressure side runs about 8 -10 PSI. Sold by I.D. line size.

Yes, there some "Spray & Pray" parts out there, but start with basics before pulling the credit card out for a $890 quick-ratio box. I couldn't get away with that at the dealership as it would come back to bite me. I would have checked end play before it left the shop of felt it during the test drive before I parked it.

That's half the adjustments and should be don last. If you look at the link I posted it shows the proper way to make the adjustments. You can damage the box doing half the job like that.