Starter troubles and replacement

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454cid

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Today I did some poking around with my meter.

First I checked battery voltage and was getting 12.6x, and then I decided to remove the "surface" charge by turning on the light sfor a bit, and then turning them off. I think it was 12.4x.

I then checked voltage between the battery positive and the engine, and it matched the voltage between the battery positive and battery negative, so I'm assuming my main ground is good, and didn't mess with it. After looking at it today, I'm pretty sure I've never had it off the block. It's under the alternator mount, and above the steering. No power besides the hood light was being pulled, so maybe I'm assuming wrong and other grounds are giving me the good voltage reading?

I checked positive and negative voltage drop between the battery and the starter, while cranking. I got about .26-ish on the negative side and something small on the positive side (don't remember). I got virtually 0 drop between the two large posts on the starter.

Last test, and this is the one I'm unsure on. I checked the voltage on the S-post while cranking at its only about 10.75. That post is kinda rusty and it was a bit challenging to get a good connection. Also I never checked the voltage with the wire disconnected, so I don't know what the no-load voltage was. Even though that voltage seems low, the engine was cranking.

The trigger wire is in a loom that goes behind the engine, but I've noticed the plastic is literally crumpling for some reason. I wonder what kind of shape the wire is. If I were to replace that wire, is there an easy place to tap into it... maybe over by the master cylinder someplace?

Given that hitting the starter "fixes" it long enough to start the truck, and hitting the starter will not be affecting the connections between the key and starter, I'm going to assume those connections are fine.

I'm going to order a starter.
 

Schurkey

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First I checked battery voltage and was getting 12.6x, and then I decided to remove the "surface" charge by turning on the light sfor a bit, and then turning them off. I think it was 12.4x.
Probably was no "surface charge" at 12.6x. 12.6--12.7 is fully-charged. A battery fresh off of a charger may show 13+ volts. THAT'S surface charge.

I then checked voltage between the battery positive and the engine, and it matched the voltage between the battery positive and battery negative, so I'm assuming my main ground is good, and didn't mess with it. After looking at it today, I'm pretty sure I've never had it off the block. It's under the alternator mount, and above the steering. No power besides the hood light was being pulled, so maybe I'm assuming wrong and other grounds are giving me the good voltage reading?
A simple voltage reading is not sufficient. Voltage drop testing is required.

I checked positive and negative voltage drop between the battery and the starter, while cranking. I got about .26-ish on the negative side and something small on the positive side (don't remember). I got virtually 0 drop between the two large posts on the starter.
EXCELLENT.

Last test, and this is the one I'm unsure on. I checked the voltage on the S-post while cranking at its only about 10.75. That post is kinda rusty and it was a bit challenging to get a good connection. Also I never checked the voltage with the wire disconnected, so I don't know what the no-load voltage was. Even though that voltage seems low, the engine was cranking.
Not a great reading. When you have time you may want to trace that wire to find resistance.

Given that hitting the starter "fixes" it long enough to start the truck, and hitting the starter will not be affecting the connections between the key and starter, I'm going to assume those connections are fine.

I'm going to order a starter.
Seems reasonable.
 

454cid

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My parts were just deleivered.

The starter is made in South Korea, as expected.

The NGK coil is Chinese, which disappoints me, but not totally unexpected. Hopefully NGK demands quality parts get their name.
 
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454cid

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Well, I'm pretty upset. I couldn't get the new starter lined up to get both bolts in at the same time. Something was interfering. I thought it was the pinion sticking out too far at first. That was just a bigger opening in the casting. I got both starters sitting side by side, and realized the new starter positions the heat shield closer to the transmission. I removed the heat shield and then it went in fine. So now I get to do the job over again.

My plan is to remove the starter, and hold the heat shield up there and see if I can figure out where it's hitting and trim it. I should have done that before bolting the starter in, but I didn't think if it. I was just trying to get the thing in.

It's upsetting that I have to do it again, especially when using a part supplied by GM!

I did find that a 4mm socket will removee the E5 screws.
 

Kran

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That's the one I'm planning on ordering. If you posted about it before, it was probably your post I was thinking of... although, I was thinking it was made in Brazil, I knew it wasn't Mexico or China. Korea could be fine.

just get the one that guy linked, i bought it too a few months ago. its a gear reduction starter, cranks much faster than the standard one. it is smaller in size as well and draws less power. 30 minute job. the main power wire going to the starter solenoid bolt broke off the housing due to rust (chicago) so i had to use some pliers to get the nut off what was left of the solenoid LOL.
 

454cid

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just get the one that guy linked, i bought it too a few months ago. its a gear reduction starter, cranks much faster than the standard one. it is smaller in size as well and draws less power. 30 minute job. the main power wire going to the starter solenoid bolt broke off the housing due to rust (chicago) so i had to use some pliers to get the nut off what was left of the solenoid LOL.

That's the type of starter my truck came with. I think all the 454s got the mini-starters once GM started using them.
 

454cid

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On a positive note, the new starter sounds great... like it's spinning faster, and maybe the old starter was getting tired. I broke the stud with the braided wire going into the starter, and I could see the contacts were worn and overheated.
 

someotherguy

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The heat shield is nice to have and may be a necessity in some applications, but you might be surprised how many vehicles are running without them and experience zero issues. I wouldn't sweat it. I think they're far more important on engines with the old style full size starter and other contributing factors like headers.

Richard
 

454cid

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The heat shield is nice to have and may be a necessity in some applications, but you might be surprised how many vehicles are running without them and experience zero issues. I wouldn't sweat it. I think they're far more important on engines with the old style full size starter and other contributing factors like headers.

I'm hoping it won't be a big deal, but It would make me feel better to have it back in place. I think a little trimming will be all that is needed. I will likely let it go until it's a little drier... the snow is melting and everything is wet, and even with the heat on, the floor is like a giant ice cube. I think I'm going to work on top of the engine now.... coil, and maybe drop my new distributor in if the original is getting sloppy.
 
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