Solder vs crimps

[Schurkey]

PM sent. Gonna have to add to it, now. If you've already seen it, look again for updates.

 

[jbontke]

I have experience to offer as I have done both. I used to solder and heat shrink tube everything. And it lasts. The previous post about it solder "filler metal" breaking down, I have never seen that in over 30 years of automotive repair. I have seen plenty of bad solder joints and wire twisted and taped in all sorts of ways. Here is what works: If you have wires that are not moving much, solder works. Use a quality solder and hear shrink tube. I have used quality crimp connectors with great results as well. The key is a quality crimp tool that docent over crimp the connection. Both work well if done well. Its faster/easier to crimp in my opinion and is where I go first.

 

[FLJoe]

This is a long thread at 7 pages, and I admit I quit reading at about 4 pages, but for what it's worth...

I recently had to completely strip apart and "rebuild" my rear taillight wiring harness not long ago. I found that the way GM originally split and branched wires was solder and heat shrink tubing. The original factory splices were all fine. The connectors at the ends had gone bad. Where I had to splice new connectors in, I soldered and used liquid electrical tape, then bound everything tightly with regular electrical tape before putting it back in the loom.

I do a lot of work on my old boat and have been around boating for years. The general rule there is to use good crimp connectors, with heat shrink, followed by liquid electrical tape to keep out any saltwater. The theory is that soldering will get brittle or corrode more easily than crimps, should saltwater get in. I realize this goes against what GM did on the wiring harness under the truck, which was exposed to ridiculous amounts of saltwater every winter for more than a decade around Lake Ontario. On the truck, I'll just replicate how the factory did it. On the boat, I'll follow ABYC standards.

 

[Caman96]

This is a long thread at 7 pages, and I admit I quit reading at about 4 pages, but for what it's worth...

I recently had to completely strip apart and "rebuild" my rear taillight wiring harness not long ago. I found that the way GM originally split and branched wires was solder and heat shrink tubing. The original factory splices were all fine. The connectors at the ends had gone bad. Where I had to splice new connectors in, I soldered and used liquid electrical tape, then bound everything tightly with regular electrical tape before putting it back in the loom.

I do a lot of work on my old boat and have been around boating for years. The general rule there is to use good crimp connectors, with heat shrink, followed by liquid electrical tape to keep out any saltwater. The theory is that soldering will get brittle or corrode more easily than crimps, should saltwater get in. I realize this goes against what GM did on the wiring harness under the truck, which was exposed to ridiculous amounts of saltwater every winter for more than a decade around Lake Ontario. On the truck, I'll just replicate how the factory did it. On the boat, I'll follow ABYC standards.

No matter what we do, water or saltwater ALWAYS wins.

 

[FLJoe]

Yeah, mother nature wants her metal back!

 

[Pinger]

Seems I do my connections a little differently...
For those that struggle with soldering BTW, the golden rule is bring the heat to the joint then the solder.

For soldering wire ends, rather than the Western Union method exactly, I hold both ends of the wire together, parallel with each other then twist the strands together. I apply solder from the insulated side to the end and avoid soldering too close to the insulation - which leaves flexibility there to unfold the two wires into one straight length. I just find that twisting the strands together is easier that way.
It isn't as pretty as joining the wires already in the position they will be in as it's a touch bulkier and, it does rob a bit of wire length (the length of one bared section) but it gives a good strong joint with the minimum of soldered length (thus more vibration resistant) and is much easier to really tightly entwine the strands prior to soldering.

Shrink wrap sleeves would work with the above but I use self amalgamating tape which seals it without the need for heat. If you've not encountered amalgamating tape before, it's well worth seeking out a roll of it. If you do, you will never ever use adhesive plastic tape again - I guarantee it.

 

[Caman96]

Seems I do my connections a little differently...
For those that struggle with soldering BTW, the golden rule is bring the heat to the joint then the solder.

For soldering wire ends, rather than the Western Union method exactly, I hold both ends of the wire together, parallel with each other then twist the strands together. I apply solder from the insulated side to the end and avoid soldering too close to the insulation - which leaves flexibility there to unfold the two wires into one straight length. I just find that twisting the strands together is easier that way.
It isn't as pretty as joining the wires already in the position they will be in as it's a touch bulkier and, it does rob a bit of wire length (the length of one bared section) but it gives a good strong joint with the minimum of soldered length (thus more vibration resistant) and is much easier to really tightly entwine the strands prior to soldering.

Shrink wrap sleeves would work with the above but I use self amalgamating tape which seals it without the need for heat. If you've not encountered amalgamating tape before, it's well worth seeking out a roll of it. If you do, you will never ever use adhesive plastic tape again - I guarantee it.

For those who choose to crimp, it’s not necessarily because they struggle with soldering. That argument could be made in reverse. I mostly agree with there is no one size fits all.

 

[Pinger]

For those who choose to crimp, it’s not necessarily because they struggle with soldering. That argument could be made in reverse. I mostly agree with there is no one size fits all.

I didn't have crimpers in mind when I said the soldering thing - and seeing proper crimping (not just those nasty aluminium things) I can see why it's a legitimate choice/method.
It was more for anyone who hasn't quite got the hang of soldering. The usual mistake is trying to apply the solder before the heat is there. The solder should just flow right in when it's done right.

Seven pages of varied methods - there's no excuse for any of us making a bad connection - what ever works best for you and the job your working on - absolutely!

 

[Caman96]

Seven pages of varied methods - there's no excuse for any of us making a bad connection - what ever works best for you and the job your working on - absolutely!

Perfect ending to this thread……..

 

[caw_86]

I use non-insulated crimp connectors, I have a high quality crimper. I then use heavy duty heat shrink, it has a glue inside the heat shrink that melts when heated. This creates a sealed connection that won't allow water into the connection so no corrosion.

I am not against soldering but it does require some skill and some of the places I have had to make repairs are not easy to access.

That is the same stuff they use on commercial nuclear wire repair, raychem