School Me on LS Motors

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Erik the Awful

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Okay, I found the issue on my spreadsheet. My dynamic compression formula allowed a negative piston rise. Correcting that makes the numbers trend more correctly. The LSA cam now calculates to a 8.4:1 DCR with flat tops. Unfortunately I'm now seeing a 9.8:1 dynamic ratio with the RHP cam, so it'll go on the shelf for another engine. Interestingly, the stock LFA cam calculates out to a 8.8 DCR with the stock +3cc pistons, which the internet randos say is borderline on 91 octane. The machine shop is now telling me they decked the block and heads "slightly". That's going to mean even more measuring and math. Without decking the pistons should be .003" in the hole, and the heads should be 64.5cc.
 

Erik the Awful

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Now it looks like the original raison d'etre for this thread is back on. I just bought a lightly wrecked 130k mile 2013 Cadillac CTS for $1500. My wife is only moderately ticked at me, and I now need to find 3 more motors. Doh!
 

Erik the Awful

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The engine should be coming back from the machine shop this week, and my timeline for getting the engine built is shrinking. I also have two friends who want to participate in building the engine so they can learn how.

I have a spreadsheet I print off when building a SBC, and I need to adapt it to LS engines. It has blocks for putting your initials when you complete a task, so that you verify that you did it. No "Wait, did I torque the main caps?" moments. It has places to record measurements and for the math to ensure everything's kosher.
 

Erik the Awful

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I finally got the block back this week and started reassembly. It was going smoothly...

I just discovered that rounding off the head of a rod cap bolt is a thing on LS motors. My 30 year old NAPA 11mm socket that has never been used but was apparently too loose rounded it right off just as I was getting it to 15 ft/lb + 85*. I've tried every socket I have, and they all just strip it more. I tried welding nuts to the bolt, and it doesn't take metal. I turned my welder up to 6/10 and as soon as I tried to remove it the nut twisted off and I can still see the writing on the top of the rod bolt. Then again, my welding does suck.

I put enough heat into the rod bolt that I think I'm going to replace the rod and bearings.

In the meantime, I'm off to try and find some Irwin Bolt Grip extractors. The last ditch will be to grind the head off the bolt. Either way the rest of the motor has to come apart so I can clean it again. Ugh.
 

Erik the Awful

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An update: the Irwin Bolt Grip kit is $65 and doesn't come with an 11mm. Vevor makes a kit that comes with 29 pieces for $42, and includes a 7/16-11mm extractor. Both are made in China. You can order direct from Vevor, and I got their kit in four days. Ten seconds and the bolt was out.
 

Erik the Awful

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WTH? The "complete" engine gasket set doesn't come with a replacement gasket for the cam retainer plate? Instead of buying a $2 gasket you have to buy a new $20 plate.
I nicked the o-ring on the diverter barbell, and the kit doesn't have one of those either. It's an aftermarket aluminum barbell, but I was hoping. I may have one elsewhere.
Finally, I mixed up part numbers and ordered dual-spring retainers instead of beehive retainers, so there's another $75 and another 4 day wait.

LS motors are really f'n expensive compared to the old SBCs. Don't let anyone tell you different.
 

HotWheelsBurban

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WTH? The "complete" engine gasket set doesn't come with a replacement gasket for the cam retainer plate? Instead of buying a $2 gasket you have to buy a new $20 plate.
I nicked the o-ring on the diverter barbell, and the kit doesn't have one of those either. It's an aftermarket aluminum barbell, but I was hoping. I may have one elsewhere.
Finally, I mixed up part numbers and ordered dual-spring retainers instead of beehive retainers, so there's another $75 and another 4 day wait.

LS motors are really f'n expensive compared to the old SBCs. Don't let anyone tell you different.
More parts, made with newer technology, and newer $$$$, haven't been used for 60+ years like the Small Block stuff....
 

at7615

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More parts, made with newer technology, and newer $$$$, haven't been used for 60+ years like the Small Block stuff....
I really like the LS platform of engines,they are super easy to work on, for a mass produced power plant they are awesome, and the Australian lean burn programing in the 0411, too much fun. Matched with a 4L80E, 14 bolt rear with a G80, you got some serious "like a rock" hardware/software!
 

Erik the Awful

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Last night I measured the o-ring on the Moroso oil diverter barbell. It's a 2.5mm x 11mm Viton o-ring (16mm OD). I ordered a pack of 25 for $15, because no matter how many I ordered from whatever website it was going to be about $15.

I went out into the garage, and at 7:30 pm it was still 104*F. I sweated my butt off for half an hour, but got all the old trunnions removed from the rockers with my bench vise. I need to get a new large c-clamp, but I should get all the new BTR trunnions installed this evening in the air conditioning in my living room.
 

Erik the Awful

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I previously mentioned my engine build checklist, and I mentioned using checklists this week in another thread, so I realized I should probably upload it here so y'all can use it, review it, and complain about what I should fix on it. Here you go. Change the file extension from .txt to .xslx and you should be able to open it.
 

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  • LS Engine Build Checklist.txt
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at7615

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This combined with the plate makes install a breeze, I'm to old to wrestle with them anymore.

You must be registered for see images attach
 

Erik the Awful

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I typically use a leveler, but I was loading it into my wife's Tahoe, and I needed the hoist as close to the engine as possible to fit in the back of the truck.
 

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